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Sanctifier
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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Location: Good question!
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 Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 8:25 am Post subject: ~ From The Archives ~ A Guide To Engine Blueprinting. |
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~From The Archives~  A Guide To Engine Blueprinting - Car Craft 9/05
Ever got screwed with a sh!tty engine-build from a mechanic or gotten bogus work from
a machine shop? Tired of spending BIG BUCKS and then hoping for the best?
Here's an article that may be of interest to every 2nr, especially DIY  MadMen.
   
   
At least now you have a better idea about what to look for and how to protect yourself
from being "ripped-off" 
Feel free to add comments and more information/articles on "DIY Engine Blueprinting."
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue Jul 07, 2009 5:33 pm; edited 11 times in total |
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Sanctifier
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Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 5:50 pm Post subject: |
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Yup, this is a "cross-post"... but it's VERY relevant to the topic under discussion.
Link--> CAVEAT EMPTOR... "Blueprinting" w/Torque Plates & How To Make Them on the "CHEAP!"
BTW MadMen sometimes... "Out of sorrow cometh joy!" A damaged block gives an
excellent opportunity for "Blueprinting" a cylinder block during an engine rebuild.
Think... TORQUE PLATE! This is what a Torque Plate looks like...
This plate (plus correct "break-in" procedure) are perhaps the most important steps to obtain
better piston-ring seating, increased reliability and more torque/power from the "new" engine.
| Goodson's Tools & Supplies wrote: | Cylinder Boring Tips
Lightweight block castings have become very prevalent in our market. Since the overall
mass has been reduced, the controlled stresses have become an important factor in the
block's integrity. To ensure integrity, we must recreate that stress by using a Torque Plate
when boring and honing.
Torque your main caps in place to correct specifications.
Install a torque plate and torque in place using final assembly torque specifications.
Use stock (OEM) head studs/bolts... too long/too short may abnormally stress the block.
Torque all motor mounts and related accessory brackets (before machining) |
Link --> Goodson's Tools & Supplies - Tech Support
So, long story short... What's so great about getting this damaged block?
| Sanctifier wrote: | Take the old block to a Machine Shop.
1st. Let them "DECK" the old block.
. They need to use the main bearing saddles as a datum point during "set-up" AFAIK.
. Now you have a 'true' horizontal surface to use as a 'baseline' for other machining work.
Cut the casting horizontally. [Leaving you with the cylinder-bore section alone.]
Machine [deck] the section to the same thickness as OEM cylinder head.
Drill out threaded bolt-holes to allow fasteners (bolts/studs) to slide through.
 There you go... TORQUE PLATE!... made from high density cast-iron (4Gxx blocks) too.
So less twisting than alloy plate = better machined cylinder bores = BETTER piston-ring seal.
Oh, I almost forget to mention... = LONGER engine life = More Torque & Power too.
To further duplicate "real world" cylinder bore loading, use OEM head gasket as well. |
To those who think this is all BULLSH!T and a complete waste of time and $$$$...
Search "boring & honing" proceedures used in F1 / NASCAR / Top Fuel / WRC etc.
Good enough for them... so good enough for me!
Waste of $$$  Cutting and machining may cost... $150-$250.00 TT???...
Machine/Speed Shops in the US charge $250.00-to-$550.00 US to make one for you.
Still not convinced?... Theory & Dyno results coming soon.
THEIR $0.02� first... and mine now...
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Sat Sep 15, 2007 9:53 am; edited 5 times in total |
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Sanctifier
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1794
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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UPDATE --> Mitsu Power just came up with a brilliant idea today.
Tuners always have trouble finding convenient ways to store spare crankshafts.
They should be "hung" vertically. If stored horizontally, you face the distinct possibility
of warpage over a long period of time... but it's awkward and takes up a lot of space.
Sooo... when I get the block cut, I won't throw away the lower section.
Cut a shallow section retaining the main bearing journals AND the main bearing cap girdle.
Lay some fairly good, CLEAN and well lubricated main bearings in place in both parts...
| Quote: | EDIT: Oil ALL bearing surfaces & journals.
:::::: Cover ALL bearing surfaces & journals with thin, food-grade "cling-wrap" plastic film.
:::::: The film reduces oil migration and keeps surfaces rust-free for a much longer time.
:::::: Lube ALL oil passages in the crank-shaft.
:::::: (ADD a blob of HD grease at each end of oil-passage to stop oil from running out.)
:::::: Now install crank-shaft, replace girdle and replace OEM bolts.
:::::: TORQUE to standard OEM specs. |
There yuh go! SAFE... warp-free... rust-free... HORIZONTAL crank-shaft storage.
Excellent idea IMHO. Thanks again Mitsu Power
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Morpheus23
Looking for the Jedi base
Joined: 15 Jan 2006
Posts: 45
Location: Arouca
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| Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:23 am Post subject: |
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Bookmarked 
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R. Mutt
Jedi Hopeful
Joined: 14 Apr 2005
Posts: 195
Location: New York
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| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 1:47 am Post subject: |
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School has me tied up...I'll come back and read this thoroughly on another day.
Looks good as always Sanctifier.
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Sanctifier
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Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 6:42 am Post subject: |
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Thanks my friend. Take a peek when you can Mutt you should find it interesting.
Torque plate is fairly easy to make too. There are a few damaged 4G63 blocks around now.
Another source is at Machine Shops.
They sometimes have old blocks that they want to throw away.
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Maserati
Jedi Hopeful
Joined: 03 Sep 2005
Posts: 152
Location: Calgary..Canada
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| Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 12:25 pm Post subject: |
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| any link to the 1st two pics? They aren't working for me. |
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1794
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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Looks like they were removed by ImageShack. I'll find the scans and repost... Done!
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Maserati
Jedi Hopeful
Joined: 03 Sep 2005
Posts: 152
Location: Calgary..Canada
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| Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 9:00 pm Post subject: |
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| ^thanks |
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1794
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 10:40 am Post subject: |
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| Sanctifier wrote: | | To those who think this is all BULLSH!T... |
So... is all this Torque Plate thingy, just rubbish?
NOPE  ... and here's the proof... | clivew @ MLR wrote: | The block... was bored and honed with a torque plate (and the cradle and mains studs torqued) and when measured without the head on, each bore was distorted and oval by up to 1.5 thou.
The head was then torqued on with the old gasket, and the bores re-measured, and the ovality and bores size was now in tolerance by approx 0.1 thou or 0.0025mm. |
| EugeneT5 @ MLR wrote: | Bores are still 87.01mm down low in the cylinder, but the higher I measure the narrower it gets.
Goes down to 86.985! That's 0.025mm (1 thou) difference. |
Link--> Torque plate.
That proves that NO Machine shop can achieve accurate piston-to-bore clearances without using a torque plate.
My $0.02¢
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