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Sanctifier
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 Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:20 pm Post subject: HARD NUTS!... Solid Engineering for Mechanical Nightmares. |
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Just like the title says. Here we'll list unusual, difficult problems... and possible
solutions for them.
Introducing... HARD NUTS!... Solid Engineering for Mechanical Nightmares.
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:33 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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#1: CAPTIVE NUT REPAIR...
| frantic 2nr wrote: | | fellas, my ck have one of the crossmember nuts stripped, so how the arse i getting that fixed? |
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Thu Aug 05, 2010 4:33 am; edited 5 times in total |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:22 pm Post subject: |
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For captive nut repair. (no access from other side.) NB: I only recommend option #3.
Easiest (fragile) option:
| Quote: | Not sure if that size is available locally and its awkward but easiest... but Heli-Coil
insert is a quick fix. Check engineering supply/tool company. Too flimsy for use here IMHO. |
Worst (brutal) option:
| Quote: | Arc weld hole solid... re-drill... tap hole.
Use special high-tensile rod if possible. |
Best option:
| Sanctifier wrote: |  Remove paint from area with wire-wheel.
Cut hole on reverse side with cup-saw.
Remove captive nuts by grinding off weldments with die grinder and air hammer.
Grind mating surface smooth.
Reweld replacement nuts.
Reweld metal removed by cup-saw.
Repaint. |
Link--> Captive Subframe Nut Repair FAQ.
Last but not least... Video of Captive Nut Repair:
Last edited by Sanctifier on Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:49 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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Oh, Mods don't move this thread please.
Link or copy to "Engineering" aka ZORCEology if necessary. Thanks.
BTW let me get some practice...  ... 
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 9:17 am Post subject: |
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| frantic 2nr wrote: | | problem solved, fella in grande removed the crossmember and rethreaded the nut, and replaced with a bigger bolt. No cutting! |
The only problem with that "fix" is that the old nut is taking the same load (force) as before...
but now the "wall thickness" of the nut is MUCH thinner than it was...
Tapping new threads removes at least TWICE the thickness of the original thread depth.
Now its weaker and might break. That's why I suggested a HeliCoil insert (#1) instead.
Hope it works.
My $0.02�
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sidewayz69
Pumpum Conqueror
Joined: 19 Nov 2008
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| Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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ok but heli coil is quite expensive
good research there |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 7:41 am Post subject: |
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^ ^ ^ Yup, helicoil insert may be expensive. May cost almost as much as "best fix" (option 3.)
but how much to fix if the thinner nut fails and maybe causes an accident?
| Sanctifier wrote: | "Damn sure" better than "Cocksure"...  |
Safer (& Cheaper) in the long run too, IMHO.
My $0.02�
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 4:29 am Post subject: |
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CHAPTER 2: BODYWORK... Rocker-panel Replacement.
This is the most attempted area of repair/restoration attempted by owners of ol' school rides...
Welding: ...The very idea scares the sh!t out of most diy tuners, so they immediately turn to the nearest "Fred-in-the-shed" for cheap assistance. Poor "Fred"... 9 out of 10 2nrs want as cheap a repair as possible...but still insist on "Concours d’Elegance" levels of craftsmanship. What is Fred to do?... | Fred wrote: | Use the cheapest material and quickest "shortcuts" available...while trying to appear as "professional" as possible...and promise the (unwitting "sucker") err "customer" a discount on the "buss head" bill... "as iz you."...  |
Here's another method...
Body Preparation: Here's one method that will ensure a durable repair... | Sanctifier wrote: | . Remove rusted rocker panel... Try using air tools instead of a welding torch, to avoid perforating the old, underlying metal...or causing a FIRE in oil-soaked sound-deadening material...or in old carpet...through unseen holes in the floor. 
. After removal of rusty rocker-panel...Remove old sound-deadening material (if any) and ALL grunge and rust from sub-panel.
. Use a chemical de-rusting agent..."Wonder" is perfect.
. Allow to dry...Prime with Red oxide or Zinc Cromate Yellow, etc.
. Coat with 3M Body Shutz and allow to dry... |
Repair...
. One modern method is shown here...
...
More "Bodywork Restoration Issues" to come...
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Thu Aug 05, 2010 4:33 am; edited 2 times in total |
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MG Man
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| Posted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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good stuff there
Rocker panel replacement is common among MG owners
One mistake I have seen supposed professionals do is remove BOTH rocker panels at the same time. In a monocoque chassis, this is a HUGE no-no, as the rockers give the bodyshell its longitudinal rigidity. Removing both rockers can make your car go all banana shaped........
Another common short cut is to just cut and replace the outer skin. Typically, rocker panels comprise a complete hollow section tube, sometimes containing a stiffening metal 'membrane' inside. Typically if you see surface rust, it's worse on the inside. Patching the outer sill is simply covering up a potential structural failure waiting to happen...
It is also advisable to weld a brace across door apertures BEFORE removing a sill, to ensure the car stays in shape
When welding in new sills, a good set of welding clamps is essential for holding panels together tightly. Relying on a friend to press panels together does not always work, especially when said friend gets tired, or turns around to check out the skirt passing outside...........clamps come in a vast array, working on the vise grip principle, and are worth the investment, as is a good MIG welder
Over to you, Unkle Sanctifier
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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Great addtional info, MG. If you don't mind, I'd like to edit and include this in a new "Tech" thread that I'm working on at the moment... I'll give you the by-line, of course. 
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MG Man
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| Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 5:11 pm Post subject: |
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no prob
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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#3 BUSTED cast-iron block / Alternator bracket mounting:
| ~2nr~ wrote: | Ok, so the bracket that holds the alternator and another pulley onto the block, broke off....How can this be fixed?
This is from a Tiida.....would the engine have to be removed and taken to a machine shop in order to get the bracket back on properly?
Please note that the bolts in RED numbered 1 and 4 have broken off and are in the block.
RED 3 bolt head broke off, leaving the threaded part screwed into the block...
This shows the corresponding holes of the alternator bracket that mounts to the block, to the above positions
Broken off piece of block still threaded onto bolt on alternator...numbered YELLOW 2 that is supposed to bolt onto position RED 2
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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Doesn't look like any epoxy/resin etc. will fix the block in so many places for a reliable repair...
| ~2nr~ wrote: | ...would the engine have to be removed and taken to a machine shop in order to get the bracket back on properly?
Please note that the bolts in RED numbered 1 and 4 have broken off and are in the block.
RED 3 bolt head broke off, leaving the threaded part screwed into the block... |
So only bolt-holes #1 and #4 are still serviceable... IF an EZ-Out can remove the broken stumps.
The block has failed at bolt-holes #2 and #3... So it may be just a matter of time before #1 and #4 fail as well...
As a LAST DITCH measure, I would do the following...
| Sanctifier wrote: | First comes the hard part...
Cut a cardboard template covering the OEM positions at #1 through #4 positions...
This MUST sit FLAT on the block like OEM alternator bracket... and must also cover all three* unused(?) threaded(?) studs in pix...
* If available for use, the threads should be "chased" with a special tap... or new threads carefully cut into three extra studs...
Cut 1/4" steel plate to match template, with correct bolt hole pattern...
1) Drill holes for OEM bolts #1 through #4...
2) Drill holes to match unused stud positions in pix... 1st below #1 and #2... 2nd to left of #4... and 3rd below #4...
Now comes the easy part...
You have to use #1, #4 AND three new positions to secure the adapter-plate... then use studs (captive bolts) in plate (#1 through #4) to secure alternator/pulley bracket...
1) Use countersunk HT bolts to secure alternator bracket from the reverse (under) side... (or spot-weld bolts in place as a convenient alternative.)
2) Use spacer washers (if necessary) to compensate for differences in installed height, for new mounting locations.)
3) Use studs/bolts to secure adapter plate to block using #1... #4 and three new bolt-holes... |
I hope that I explained it properly... Basically use FIVE holes to secure plate to block... Use 4 captive-bolts to secure alternator-bracket to plate.
...would the engine have to be removed...?... With space at a premium, I would, to reduce mistakes when drilling hole for EZ-Out... or tapping fresh holes. You don't need MORE headaches, do you?
Use copper slip or similar anti-seize compound during reassembly to avoid future thread corrosion/seizure...
I hope someone else comes up with a more simple solution... and btw... FIND A NEW MECHANIC FIRST!
Good luck, my friend.
My $0.02¢
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 5:19 pm Post subject: |
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Here's a Trick that I'm sure isn't very well known but is surprisingly simple.
How to Spot-weld Aluminium...
Don't know what you think.. but IMHO that's VERY
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MG Man
Zorce Klingon Warrior
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| Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:01 am Post subject: |
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very cool
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