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Sanctifier
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 Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 7:48 am Post subject: FAQs and Fantasy!... ALL questions welcome! |
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Starting up a new thread called... "FAQs and Fantasy!"
Here we all will try to answer some of the more frequently asked questions...
It will cut down on repetition too, won't it! 
Yup "noobies" are welcome! I never saw a question that I didn't like...
BTW there's plenty that I don't know about... (still learning, not so?)
so that makes me a "noobie" too doesn't it.
Please fellas, no "flames"... AFAIK Nobody was born in a car... but similarly ...
"noobies"... try to do a "search" of this thread (or forum) first to "speed up" answers, okay?
We all have to start learning somewhere... IMO Sarcasm just chases people away. 
No "noobie" questions... No new 2nrs... Nobody to exchange ideas with... No hobby... 
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick! 
Last edited by Sanctifier on Wed May 24, 2006 4:21 am; edited 4 times in total |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 8:08 am Post subject: |
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Post was a "pm" on another forum, so ID deliberately kept "anonymous"...
| Quote: | Can you help me with any Info on how To "Evolutionize" my CK4 Lancer?
I have already started my project, (Evo-3 4G63T with a FWD Gear Box).
What is most HP i can get form my evo3/ck4?
Thanks 4your help! |
First, how far have you reached?... Sorry to say this, but if you just started, your "best bet" is
to sell your "Gen 1" 4G63 and buy a newer "Gen 2" (right-side mounted) engine; preferably a
"Gen 2" turbo engine from a Lancer 1800 GSR (CM5A)... not an Evo engine.
The 4G93 (GSR) is 205 hp... and is a better combination with CK4 IMHO... less "torque steer"
as fwd... less installation issues (see below)... lower cost... less headaches!!!
IMHO the 4G63 turbo engine from the Evo is perfect for your project... but for a FWD car
it must go together with a front (helical) LSD from an Evo 4-6 RS transfer case...
Those are as rare as "chicken teeth" here... and as expensive as hell!!! Try $5-6000 +... USED! 
See this... "General Mitsubishi Engine Codes & The 4G63's." http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?t=199&sid=255b9828556c498926265acd55e302d9
You'll see what I mean by "left-side" and "right-side" mounted engines...
Also your "base" is a CK4... smaller brakes (an important issue, so upgrade to GSR front brakes
(minimum) asap)... (Use GSR master cylinder too for correct pedal travel.)
BTW with "different length CK4 front axles" (isn't the difference in length a problem with
mounting a "left-side" Evo 3 engine?)...Will CK4 or Evo 3 axles fit at all?
I suppose you already checked on Zorce at the  MadMen Forum?...
"How To "Evolutionize" your Lancer!"
http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?t=617&sid=255b9828556c498926265acd55e302d9
As you can see, your method is unusual, as Evo 3 has "Gen 1" version of 4G63 (left-side engine)
and you're using a CK4 with engine mounted on the right side... and staying FWD too.
Soooo... easy one first... If you insist on going ahead with "Gen 1" swap... and staying FWD...
(and modifying 4wd gearbox)...
Check... "SUGGESTION ONLY!: 5-speed 4WD-to-FWD CK2 Conversion."
http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?t=836&sid=255b9828556c498926265acd55e302d9
It deals mainly with "right-side" Gen 2 (CK2/CK4) 4G63 mounting, but info can also be adapted
for earlier Gen 1 "left-side" mounting I suppose... but the "best" alternative would be a
US Eclipse gearbox or transmission, as these are strong enough to take the 4G63's power.
(IMHO I would still suggest a 4G93 from a GSR.)
"What is the most HP you can get from the Evo 3 engine???"...
Stock Evo 3...... = 266 hp / 228 lb.-ft torque (flywheel)
Stock 1800 GSR = 205 hp (flywheel)
How deep are your pockets??? This depends on if you have a "built" bottom-end...
Forged pistons???... Forged con-rods???... ARP "main" studs???.. APR con-rod bolts???...
ARP cylinder head studs???... hotter HKS '264' or '272' cams???... bigger (Garrett) turbo???...
Exhaust manifold for different turbo???... bigger 3" exhaust system???...
"stand-alone" ECU???... "heavy duty" clutch kit??? (stock clutch will burn quickly)...
bigger rims, tyres, brakes and suspension for all the extra power???... etc. etc. etc.
300 hp is easy. 400 hp or even more is possible, but I would be worried about driving that
FWD car, without at least front Brembo brakes (about $8000 for front & rear?) or upgraded
suspension. Right now "power" doesn't matter to you. First decide if you will continue
with Evo 3 swap. Then move ahead with getting ALL the other parts first,
especially the brakes and suspension IMHO.
I'll also check with John Ferreira this week and get back to you.
He has a CD(?) GSR/Evo 3 conversion and may have more info...
My $0.05�
Add your comments please... This 2nr needs your help. 
_________________
Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Wed Apr 11, 2007 5:13 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2006 5:44 am Post subject: |
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Copied from "How To Service Your AYC" thread...
| anonymous wrote: | | Hello Sanctifier ! What are the specs for the OEM ayc fluid or what would be a good alternative? |
This is the data for the Evo 4-6:
As far as substitute fluid, I don't know. It looks like good old...
Heavy duty Hypoid Gear-oil (API GL-5 or better) for the differential - '90' body or '80W'.
Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF SPII specs) for the Hydraulic system. *
and Vaseline for the "Oil-seal lips" ... 
Never heard of specific "AYC Fluid" it may be the same ATF used in the system. (see above*.)
To be sure, register (free) with Mitsubishi Lancer Register (UK) and post a question in
relevant Tech section or General forum.
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 4:35 am Post subject: |
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"John Doe" is looking to buy a used Evo 6 GSR... maybe with a damaged turbo~
| John Doe wrote: | ... i will be prepared to get a new turbo/wastegate and as u suggested
... change timing belt, oil, plugs, ayc fluid etc. later on i will disconnect it... possibly 4500kms later
im thinking the white rabbit turbo, greddy profec B, water injection,
18psi. high, 16 low. its got an HKS cat back on
... but the intake is crap. i dunno what to get to replace that. i guess something by k&n
... im lookin for a responsive daily driver... ~300whp
i was advised to open the engine to see whats going on in there... and forge onetime.
i think thats a bit over the top... but then again depends on the health of the engine,
which will be revealed with the compression test. |
white rabbit turbo, greddy profec B, water injection... ... All great, especially the water-injection
(for reliability) but that little lot could cost $10-13k+$2.7k+$3k=$17-20k+ TT
... and that's for a cheaper basic water-injection system too.
BTW add a Walbro "255 lpm" hi-flow/hi-pressure fuel pump first. Stock pumps are flakey.
18psi. high, 16 low...... Sounds safe. I'm hoping to use dual-maps switchable "on-the-fly."
1)~23-24 psi tapering to ~19-20 psi with water/methanol injection for "fun-runs"  and
2)~19 psi tapering to~16 psi for the street without water-injection...Yup on "pump" gas!(???)
intake is crap..... Nope! It isn't. Aftermarket induction will look "bling"
... but some can cause rough idle, stalling, lost flexability etc. etc.
Your choice...  Just swap battery and air-box positions IMHO.
~300whp... You're almost there already.
Get an ECU re-flash or piggy-back / downpipe / cams.
How about 357 WHP on 91 0ctane. They did add cams and exhaust...
but this is on stock turbo, injectors and intercooler.
http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?t=1482&sid=71c840d8c09aaf78c246684117f19b9b
open the engine... Depends on compression test.
If you do, try to use an Evo 9 cylinder head gasket (5-ply.)
forge onetime. i think thats a bit over the top...
Yup! Even the cheaper forged kits cost over $1500 US. (about $14,000 TT+)
FYI stock con-rods are already forged. Use ARP con-rod bolts and ARP cylinder-head stud
kits for reliability if increasing boost.
IMHO get everything running right in stock trim first...suspension & alignment
... seats... right down to the plastic trim... bulbs... etc. first.
That will give you enough seat time to learn to drive the car and enough stock power
to have fun without adding more and crashing when you're "green".
Right now suspension & alignment are the most important... for safety and the most fun.
Trust me on that one. I already have an Xede ECU, Gredy Profec B and "track" coil-overs
to install... but still sorting "stock" alignment settings while I learn the car.
... and that's even after 4 years seat time in a 4wd 1800 GSR!
Power can (and should) come LAST!... after you can corner and stop.
No point rushing to put on everything to get 500HP... and wrapping your pretty E6 around
a lamp pole... with you (and your girlfriend) in it... because you "lost" it on a corner!
BTW ayc... etc. later on i will disconnect it Maybe not a good idea. You'll get severe oversteer.
Porn Star ran so for nearly two years. He's adding more power now... and re-connecting
AYC too. You need either AYC or rear LSD for better control IMHO. I just prefer LSD.
My $0.02c
Please add comments fellas.
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Wed Oct 04, 2006 6:27 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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John Doe PART 2: That used Evo 6 GSR... has even more serious problems than first imagined~
| John Doe wrote: | ...right now the car has ... 9.5" rims to the back with 255 tires, 8.5' to the front with 235 tires
... so that will change some of the suspension dynamics. |
Padna... RUN! don't walk to get a good Evo mechanic to check the whole drivetrain.
NEVER... EVER run a 50:50 split 4wd car with different sizes of tyres on front and rear.
First check the viscous coupling in the transfer case... BEFORE you buy!!!
... Then check the rest of it carefully.
| John Doe wrote: | ...the guy broke the transfer case.. surprise surprise. there is a new one on the car now,
and im supposedly getting the old one... which the guy claims can be repaired.
i know the problem would be on a launch or hard driving, but its... lady driven.
so i dunno... the car is babied.
im guessing ill have to buy new rims if i get this car... |
The transfer case broke because the centre diff (viscous coupling) overheated. This car was
never babied...The whole drive-train was badly abused ever since he put on the rims...
(Just lack of information that's all... I only became more aware of it a month ago on MLR.)
Imagine the front and rear wheels turning at slightly different speeds and fighting each other
and the engine's huge torque.. all through the centre diff (viscous coupling) ...
the drive-shaft crosses... the gear-box bearings and brass synchromesh rings...
the rear AYC bearings and rear LSD clutch discs... etc. etc.
The new transfer case was used for quite a while with the odd-sized wheels too, not so?!?
It was abused too padna!...
Read "How To Evolutionise Your Lancer" on Zorce... Now read it again!
Both front and rear rims and tyres MUST be the same size!
They can be different widths... but never different diameters...
IMHO you should even buy the same size and BRAND of tyres front and rear
to avoid slight size changes between one manufacturer and the next...
The Evo is a prime candidate for regular tyre rotation
... and changing all 4 tyres at the same time!
I wanted to put in an (extra) hydraulic handbrake in my E6 for 'dex...
until I read about overheating the viscous coupling (VC) on MLR.
Even doing "handbrake turns" in a 50:50 torque split 4wd car with a "VC" is a "No No!"...
Try to get a better price. Just in case.
My $0.02c
To be continued...
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Wed Oct 04, 2006 6:36 am; edited 4 times in total |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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Continued...
| Sanctifier wrote: | Both front and rear rims and tyres MUST be the same size!
They can be different widths... but never different diameters... |
| John Doe wrote: | i think u misunderstood me. the rims are 17" all round. the only difference is that the
rear rims are 17X9.5 and the front are 17X8.5.
the diameter is the same, just the width of the tires are different.
255 width to the back, 235 to the front. both 40 profile, pontenzas.
u know of the car i speak? PXX xxx ... cuz u said it wasnt babied.
everyone who knows the car... even a mechanic friend of mine told me it is.
and was never crashed etc. from visual inspection, the car seeems well maintained and
i played with the gearbox and all gears go in fine, and there was no noise coming from
the transfer case on shifting. |
I don't know the car... What I know is the following...
Yup both front and rear rims are 17" in diameter... BUT THE TYRES ARE NOT!...
235/40 x 17" front = assume this is 100%
255/40 x 17" rear = 102.6% due to difference in rolling-radius
(It's taller in diameter... so travels further for each revolution.
That's an extra 2.6 kph at 100 kph speedometer reading)...
and nearly 4k more at 150 kph
That's why the centre diff overheated and failed.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
See what I mean?
To be continued...
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 4:19 pm Post subject: |
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| John Doe wrote: | wow.
meng, u learn new things everyday. god dam.
thanks for the heads up on that one. |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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No problem. IMHO the tyres are as big an issue as the questionable turbo.
BTW It seems that an hydraulic handbrake can be used in an Evo 7-9.
They don't use a viscous coupling for a centre diff. They have an Active Centre Diff.
Their ACD "de-couples" the rear drivetrain (???) when the handbrake is pulled.
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Thu May 11, 2006 7:06 am Post subject: |
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| John Doe wrote: | ok i call (the mechanic)....apparently he did the work on this car.
problem 1: car detonated piston #4.
solution: changed all pistons/rods/rings/bearing/HG/belts... compression tested. 150psi across
all cylinders.
problem 2: low boost.
solution: (the mechanic) said he looped a line on the wastegate to deliberately keep boost low
to break the engine in. he said a quick fix will get me to 18 spike, 14.7 tapper.
problem 3: center diff.
solution: (the mechanic) maintains nothing so wrong in running the offset. the car has
ran the offset for about 10,000 kms. after the stock wheels got a crack.
he says ayc fluid etc was all changed and the diff is perfect. + the guy has a spare diff he is
wiling to throw in the deal.
(the mechanic) said this is one of, if not the best evo 6 in the country and
if he had the $$ he would buy it.
go figure...... |
John Doe... you asked my opinion to help you make a "buy" decision. Sorry about this but here goes...
problem 2: low boost. ... If (that mechanic) built the engine at least you know that its okay.
Maybe the turbo's okay too. 
(the mechanic) maintains nothing so wrong in running the offset.
For six months????... I'm afraid that here I have to totally disagree with him.
It's not for a couple miles... it's for over 6,200 miles (owner says... maybe more??? )
That's two oil-changes... at least five to six months driving... requiring two viscous couplings!
It was enough time to cause the first centre diff to fail... and then to have put on a replacement...
which is gettin' licks too!... for how many miles?? Unless it was just installed don't tell me that
it didn't cause any damage at all to the second... I'm afraid I disagree with that!
ayc fluid etc was all changed...Changing AYC fluid in rear diff is fine. It was serviced.
But it doesn't determine possible wear to centre diff in transfer case IMHO. 
a spare diff he is wiling to throw in the deal....
If its the damaged centre diff it might be only a "collector's item" (junk???... can't be fixed???)
Can anyone here replace (or even have) the silicone fluid (or whatever) used???
If its another rear AYC... Then here's another few dozen questions for you.
Why? Why have to get another AYC? Spares only... or another drivetrain replacement?
Keeping wheels rotating together is so important that the Mitsubishi Owners Handbook,
the Workshop Manual and the Tech Info Handbook make a big issue (with pics) of
not even letting a wrecker tow the car with two wheels off the road!... EVER!!!
BTW maybe the best evo 6 in the country is the one that TREX got for $120k. It's almost PERFECT!
(the mechanic) would buy it.... Of course he would. He's the best. He can fix it easily!!!
Look it may be worthwhile... but not for $120k IMHO. Too many questions!
Remember that my opinion is based on generalities... I've never even seen or driven the car.
So maybe buy it for a lower price... but don't keep your eyes wide shut!
Just buy spares for insurance too. I did! I thought my E6 was fine too...
until I started to dig. Lets just say I'm glad I bought my spares now.
Another "unseen" $0.01c
~THe End?~
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed May 24, 2006 4:30 am Post subject: |
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| 2nr x wrote: | u sent me some advice concerning the cross-drilled rotor brakes and
tips about the installation of a roll cage.... It would be nice if I could have that link
over again please, there is some valid info in it that I need. thank u in advance |
cross-drilled rotors... DON'T! It's dumb. It looks impressive but for street applications, they
soon crack between the holes. The better ones are not drilled. AFAIK the holes should be cast
and then machined for appearance, to avoid added stress between holes caused by drilling.
Even AP Racing rotors eventually crack too.
For street use (and competition too) "slotted" rotors are the way to go. (Pix to come.)
roll cage... DON'T! It's deadly... unless you have a lot more chassis preperation for it like a
professionally (usually means foreign) designed cage; with very thick "two-density" padding.
Read... The Truth: ~ About Rollcages & Racing Harnesses.
http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?t=1544&sid=7a785cbb2667c59a563ecffc08c47796
Pay attention to multi-point seat-belt section too.
Yup! I will be using a cage... but in a dedicated 'dex car only used occassionally on the street.
My "daily drivers" will use underfloor braces and the following addition:...
IMHO your BEST bet is to use expanded urethane foam in all the box sections and especially
the "A", "B" and "C" pillars (windscreen, door and rear pillars) of your car.
Foamseal can increase chassis stiffness up to 300%! (for that particular area)...
Though it may not be advisable to go that high for street use.
Foam is impossible to remove from paint or upholstery. Awkward to prepare the car for it...
You must strip much of the upholstery, seats and trim etc. first...
then "seal" most areas to be filled and mask surrounding areas.
But results are EXCELLENT! and it's much safer for street use than a badly installed cage.
BTW Lancer Cedia comes that way from the factory...
As de  MadMen say...  Rulez  ...  ...
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 10:18 am Post subject: |
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Question from "another place"...
| new 2nr wrote: | hey there, ... it's a stock evo3 engine installed into a cb4 lancer 2WD .
I have an SPEC clutch kit (street n strip) Walbro 255 in tank pump..
I would like to know what directions to follow in upgrading the car step by step..
(plugs . injectors, safe boost levels, etc)
New 2nr.. |
Hi 2nr. Start by checking here... Link--> The Mitsubishi Madmen. Register to see all the pages...
Next check... Link--> THE DIRECTORY! - Good Mitsubishi websites.
Read... Link--> How To "Evolutionize" your Lancer!
You didn't say what gearbox you were using. If it's not the Evo 3 gearbox you may have to find one.
The smaller FWD box will break. Check here for an alternative...
Link--> UPDATE!_Possible Solution: 5-speed 4WD-to-FWD Conversion.
Remember if you go with too much torque you'll suffer from extreme Torque Steer.
Link--> "Torque Steer"... What and How Dangerous Is It?
The only solution that I know of for FWD torque steer is a front helical LSD from Evo 4-8 'RS' models.
I don't know if they are available for Evo 1-3 models though. Your next best bet would be to contact
Road/Race Engineering (Google) for Eclipse equivalent if available.
Okay so the first thing to do was research your project... read.... READ.
Next the stages... You're FWD so don't plan to go overboard with power upgrades.
IMHO 300+ bhp and worse 300+ lb. ft. torque can be dangerous in a conventional FWD configuration.
Get the Sport Compact Car - October 2006. on MazdaSpeed 3...
263 hp / 280 lb.-ft. Notice what they had to do to avoid the problem.
That's the power you should get on a stock Evo 3 engine. The Mazda has stiffer chassis, strut bars, front
conical LSD, uprated suspension, bigger brakes, rims and tyres, electronic handling aids, etc. ...then more power.
If I were you I would follow the same example.
Money is always tight so spend on brakes and suspension first... strut bars... then bling
(leave that for the uninformed.) BTW get 'poly' engine and gearbox mounts.
OEM mounts will tear. Get an Ingles(?) "Stiffy" or similar (hydraulic engine stabilizer.)
Last do the engine when the chassis (and your driving experience) can handle it.
2nrs always have money for engine upgrades... but never have any for brakes or suspension.
Tune your car properly. It's pretty old by now, so service it properly...
| Sanctifier wrote: | | New timing belt / tensioner / balance shaft belt / fan belt / new oil and filter / clean radiator and use new coolant + distilled water / correct spark plugs (try iridium... not sure of part #) etc. etc. |
This is for Evo 4-9 but it might help... Link--> The Tuners' Guide - Inside Lancer Evolution VIII RS/GSR/MR.
Think about how old your oil-pump and water pump are.
How much is your engine worth? Change if necessary.
BTW you're going to increase the boost... so definately use ARP con-rod bolts and
ARP cylinder head stud kit (and new cylinder head gasket as well) before you start to increase
rpm and boost. Both of these are IMPORTANT!
Go for a downpipe (21/2" id max) and same sized exhaust system.
Next ECU. Try for a reflash first (best value for money.)
If not available buy an Interceptor (Piggy-back ECU.)
Third if also unavailable go for a GReddy Profec B Spec 2 boost controller + Super Air-Fuel
Controller combo. (BTW go for Profec B anyhow for a little extra "juice.")
That should give you about 280-290 bhp (flywheel.) I wouldn't want more than that for FWD.
It's pointless getting 350 bhp in FWD if you have traction problems after 200 bhp.
Just ask W2J about that. So setup your chassis to use all the torque you already have
and you'll enjoy the car a lot more. Good luck.
My $0.02¢
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:10 am Post subject: |
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Hummm.. Same story... Different day!
| A Mitsu 2nr wrote: | That was a question that was directed to me today and now im directing it to you
and the guy is serious checked me 5 times for the day for the answer
car evo 7 rs ... budget $60,000
what would you do |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:12 am Post subject: |
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^ ^ ^ | Sanctifier wrote: | Are you sure it's an Evo 7 RS?... Never heard of an "RS" E7 over here...
EZ... BTW do it in this order. Safer handling first. Good insurance to protect his investment.
If he adds more power first, he will NEVER get around to upgrading the suspension...
How many crashed Evos have you heard about??? Better to be safe than sorry!!! |
1_ Suspension
 Whiteline Evo 8 Group 4 Adjustable Coilovers + Whiteline Rear Adjustable Anti-roll Bar. [Google.]
..................... OR 2nd choice! .........................
Ohlin coilovers... Price: $2700 US (approx. $25,000 TT) Click Here! + Mullerized Rear Adjustable Anti-roll Bar.
[Stay away from the Jap coilover stuff. Too harsh with inadequate valving. Cheaper but he will be disappointed.]
BTW if even these are too harsh for him, use OEM top strut/shock mounts and sell "pillow-ball" top mounts.
2_ Brakes
Disk Pads: Ferodo DS 2500 (front & rear.)
3_ Bushings & Engine Mounts
Whiteline Polyurethane Suspension Bushings (ft & rr) Specify Evo 7 RS + Engine Mounts.
Now the fun stuff...
To protect his investment (reliability)... Let him do it IN THIS ORDER!!!
4_ Engine [Do the first four FIRST to keep the engine together.]
Con-rod Bolts: ................ ARP Con-rod bolt kit.
Cylinder Head Studs: ..... ARP Cylinder Head Stud kit.
Cylinder Head Gasket: ... OEM 5-ply Evo 8-9 Cylinder Head Gasket.
Fuel Pump: ..................... Walbro High-Pressure "255 lpm" (litres-per-minute) fuel pump.
..............................................[Important: Stock pump overheats.]
Exhaust: .......................... 3" Downpipe + 3" "Cat-back" system.
Now he can increase the boost... and run at 8,000 rpm with a reflash...
ECU: ECU Reflash... [e.g. Dynoflash (USA)... $100 US ???]
Which ever reflash you use, tell them you have OEM 560cc/min Fuel Injectors and
stock Intercooler. They will adjust the maps accordingly.
IMHO don't use ECUTech. They "lock" the ECU.
Then only they can "unlock" it for future upgrade... and at $675 US it's too expensive IMHO.
Turbo: .................................. White Rabbit. Click Here! and Here Too!
..................... OR 2nd choice! .........................
Turbo: .................................. Buschur Racing 20G-9 Turbo w/o Core @ $1,350 US. Click Here!
..................... Don't forget the Installation Kit as well.
| Sanctifier wrote: | EDIT:... Turbo: Buy an FP 73HTA EvoGREEN turbo.
N.B. Original "Gen 1" EvoGREEN needed 690 cc/min. fuel injetors as a MINIMUM requirement.
Email FP for recommendation for larger injectors needed for newer 73HTA EvoGREEN Turbo.
Also, VERY important, buy their Oil-line Upgrade kit. |
Electronic Boost Controller: GReddy Profec B Spec 2.
Cams: .................................. HKS - 272 Intake / 272 Exhaust.
BTW Don't use a "venting" BOV... Use stock Evo 7 "recirculating" BOV or get new Evo 9 model.
Balanced upgrades... Reduced downtime... Well-balanced street car...
Great Handling... Great Brakes... Serious power...
IMHO that would be the best "bang-for-the-buck" for his $60,000 TT.
My $0.021/2¢
I'll send you my bill at the end of the month...
_________________
Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Wed Oct 07, 2009 8:43 am; edited 5 times in total |
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1794
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:34 am Post subject: |
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Now for something slightly different...
| 2nr-with-a-mortgage wrote: | ... My mechanic says my rings may be bad (VR4 4G63T).
[~What to do?...]
...engine rebuild kit with OEM pistons, rings etc.
... or could I be able to just buy some forged pistons with rings and forget about everything else?
... I'm concentrating on building a house
so I'm looking at doing the most affordable, but also I want to do something good.
... I'm looking to acheive 300-350WHP, so I was thinking the OEM kit...
I need expert advice here...
... forged pistons, using stock rods, no head or block work. then maybe I'll do that till later.
... If not then maybe the OEM rebuild will be ok for good reliable power?
... just change the rings and don't worry bout the rest?
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick! |
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1794
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:55 am Post subject: |
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^ ^ ^ To start with I'm no expert. This is just another 2nr's opinion...
but I am married so there I'm an expert. Yeah, right!
I'm concentrating on building a house... Nothing else matters. Your house will cost twice as much as
you expect. Fix your car "on the cheap" (but reliable) for the time being. Talk done!
BTW the true 4G63 Gen 1 experts are... Here
I suppose it's a Gen 1, 4G63 (cam gears on passenger side???)
I'm looking to acheive 300-350WHP = 385-425 BHP approximately.
This is borderline region for forged con-rods first (then forged pistons after) in a Gen 1 4G63.
Tough call but "stock" pistons should be okay. Forged con-rods at least though.
ARP con-rod bolts and ARP head-stud kit are definately needed as a minimum.
Read this section on "short-block reliablility" here too... ECU Tuning & The Evolution 4G63!
...rings may be bad... Did he do a "Leak-down" test to compare the cylinders to each other?
If not, did he do a Compression Test? Check C:R first.
Either will determine if you need a rebuild. (First one best but few have a leak-down tester.)
| Quote: | 1... Haltech E6S
2... HKS 272's
3... MSD DIS2
4... 550 Inj
5... EVO 7 turbo and manifold.
6... HKS EVC 1 |
You already have the following covered...
1... Engine Management
2... Cams
3... Ignition
4... Fuel system (but add a Walbro 255 lpm fuel pump. OEM pumps overheat.)
5... Turbo upgrade
6... Boost Control
Options... Cheapest & most logical first... Most expensive, impractical and most fun last.
IMHO concentrate on your house first; so do the following...
Check C:R first... Compare to OEM 'specs.' Now decide if rebore is required.
just change the rings This is the cheapest option... but the most "nasty" and unreliable
... and you will have to "worry bout the rest"
Whatever option you choose... USE ARP CON_ROD BOLTS & HEAD STUDS + New rings
+ Hone block + New bearings + New Oil Pump + New Water Pump.
At least that way you'll save your 4G63 investment for future upgrade.
If C:R is much too low in one or more cylinders... Bore/Hone/Bearings...
Your pocket will decide on forged pistons + forged rods etc. or OEM pistons + forged rods etc.
forged pistons, using stock rods, no head or block work. Not practical because IMHO forged rods are
a greater priority in Gen 1 4G63. Forged pistons are always a good option but do you need it?
Stock rods can be made reasonably reliable if you use ARP con-rod bolts.
Why no block work? Any piston-rebuild requires honing at least for the rings to seat properly.
Also your rings should be "gapped in block" (end-filing sometimes recommended for some kits)
to achieve recommended ring-gap. Especially true if you use some types of forged pistons that
require greater piston-to-wall clearance.
Once you think forged pistons go with forged rods + ARP con-rod bolts
+ Rebore/Hone/Bearings/Gasket rebuild kit/Oil pump/Water pump etc. etc...
At this stage, since you already have all the toys needed...
you know you goin to play with boost again.
BTW think Exedy twin-plate clutch kit too or you'll have to change the clutch every six months.
My $0.02�
_________________
Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Wed Oct 04, 2006 6:04 am; edited 1 time in total |
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