How is it done -nitrous oxide for the Pug

[Plex]

What is Nitrous Oxide? Well, it�s a gas at room temperature, so if you supercool nitrous oxide into a bottle at 1000psi, then release it a bit at a time into a fuel/air mixture, it turns back into oxygen rich gas. Welcome to the world of cheap power. Nowadays, it�s cheap, safe and reliable.

How much can I have ? The amount of nitrous is controlled by a jet. The more you want, the bigger the injector nozzle jet. Generally though, it�s safe to do around 50bhp jets. It gets even better though. Because nitrous oxide burns with a slower hotter flame than normal air/fuel, it means the flame front travels more slowly and hits the top of the piston later than a normal burn. It also pushes rather than punches the top of the piston, which means mechanical shock is reduced. Lovely! That�s why, that if you just increase it by a 50bhp jet, there�s no need to strengthen other engine internals. There are two types of nitrous� dry and wet. The dry is the simplest and cheapest, injecting a spray of nitrous into your cars inlet air. The wet system uses a proportional quantity of fuel mixed with the nitrous for a richer mix � recommended on turbo motors.


how is it install?

Check the car first! The first thing to do is to dyno the car for 2 reasons. The first to make sure the car is running soundly in the first place, and second to get power readings. A lot of companies will also changes the spark plugs for �colder� plugs that are rated one or two grades higher to handle higher temperatures.

The hardware is mounted first. The most important piece of the system is the injector jet which supplies the fuel/nitrous mixture. It should be mounted somewhere In the inlet air tract, as close to the inlet plenum as possible for best results. Every car is different, so they build a simple mounting plate to mount the jet on. The spacer fits between the throttle housing and the inlet air feed.

The jet has two feeds. One for nitrous and the other for fuel. Screw the nitrous and the fuel feed pipes to the jet. The next job is to mount the solenoids which control the flow of fuel and nitrous. Usually, you can chose a spot on the wing which is secure and within reach of the jet. With the solenoids in place, it�s time to supply them with fuel and nitrous. The fuel comes from the cars fuel line. The kit fitted comes with a T piece that allows you to conventionally tap into your cars fuel line without hacking hoses.

With the fuel line plumbed, a braided nitrous feed hose is run under the car and up into the boot. The bottle is securely mounted in the boot and the line attached to it. With the solenoids mounted and the fuel and nitrous feeds attached, it�s time the get wiring. Basically, the solenoids are wired to operate together. For this reason they share a common earth and common positive supply. The two positive wires are joined together and a single wire then fed across the engine bay in preparation for the relay that switches the solenoids on and off.

Mount the relay securely. Run a positive supply from the car battery to the relay. A small microswitch is mounted on the throttle linkages. This is switched on when the throttle is wide open. This prevents the nitrous being used unless the car is accelerating hard. Run a switching feed in series from the relay to the dash-mounted arming switch. This goes via the microswitch to control the system. If the microswitch senses a fully open throttle then it allows the dash switch to arm the system.

All that remains is mount the arming switch on the dash. With all that done, check all the wiring and hose connections and hit the dyno for a setup. In order to provide the necessary quantity of fuel, they will usually alter the fueld pressure regulater to increase/decrease the amount of fuel supplied.

http://www.nosnitrous.com/

[LionTamer]

Plex, i have a little bit of info 4 u here, using a dry system with stock internals on a pug will definitely blow the motor. The very first thing i did in pug tuning was put my 1.8 on NOS, it lasted all of 2hrs then 2 pistons developed a hairline crack with only a 50 shot of NOS, i will not recommend that any pug tuner do this unless u have strengthened the internals, remember these cars r not japanese, it may surprise u in some areas but not the pistons..they r soft.

[Plex]

Yes, i remembered you told me about this. I guess pugs do have some soft points..

[Han-pablo]

Why need nos anyways, to me, NOS is like a cheating method to get that top end power. I say, to really respect a car, just leave it as it is! That way, you really know jus how powerful your car really is

[LionTamer]

Well Pablo what u say is one point of view, but when u have boost that comes in late like 4500RPM cause of turbo size & intercooler size being big cause u looking 4 big power gains most times lag is increased tremendously so u only reaching full power at 6000RPM then shifting at 6500 or 7000RPM, with a set up like this bro u need what is called "anti-lag" which 2day the only true form of anti-lag comes in the form of NOS. so u may squeeze a 25hp or 50hp shot to get u off the line or else u just dont get that boost in fast enough & it all over by then. NOS does kill an engine fast over a period of time but it has its advantages if done right & used wisely...but the car must be preped for that extra jolt of power or else u break. I wont knock NOS because 2day it is as common as hondas

[Han-pablo]

How to get the lag removed, but without the harmful effects of an un prepped engine for nos! There must be an easier way. Nos is a very big & risky investment, also hafta take into consideration, how flamable it is
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