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Sanctifier
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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 Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 10:52 am Post subject: |
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The Results are In...Sanctifier weh you... Hi scientist, how yuh goin'.
| crazybalhead wrote: | ...I would reduce more weight in FRONT to balance the car better.
Lighter IC piping, battery relocate and whatever else. CF hood... |
I agree with crazybalhead here.
Lightened rear = More front weight bias = More UNDERSTEER... NOT good IMHO.
crazybalhead, Evo X is a heavy ol' bus! To lighten it,  need to get VERY radical IMHO.
| Sanctifier wrote: | Evo CURB Weight in lbs.... (ol' school, what can I say.) 
Evo X = n.a. .(5-speed RS) ...... 3517 (5-speed GSR) ...... 3594 (6-speed MR).
Evo 9 = 3219 (5-speed RS) ...... 3263 (5-speed GSR) ...... 3285 (6-speed MR).
Evo 6 = 2778 (5-speed RS) ...... 2822 (5-speed GSR) ...... n.a. . (5-speed MR).
Evo X MR is over 800 lbs. (370 kg.) HEAVIER than Evo 6 RS  |
Maybe could try something like this...
| Sanctifier wrote: | Evo X front fenders, bonnet & roof(?) are already aluminium.
Not sure if do this already but use "thin walled" alloy inner crash beams in bumpers and
doors PLUS expanded urethane foam for extra stiffness. (Just like OEM Lancer Cedia shell.)
(Most important first...) Doors... trunk... rr. spoiler & side-skirts from carbon fibre or aluminium.
Front & rear bumpers from deformable plastic for minor damage resistance and low maintenance. |
Hopefully, all that should "lose" at least 350-450 lbs... with luck, maybe more.
Still tough to get down to 2778 lb. E6 RS weight without "gutting" interior though. 
| Sanctifier wrote: | THIS is what I've been saying all along... 816 lbs. = FOUR BIG passengers!
That is plenty EXTRA weight to carry on a circuit... or in a drag-race! 
People spend serious $$$ on carbon fibre trunk, bonnet etc. to save maybe 50 lbs.
An older Evo 5-6 has a significant weight advantage to start with...
Now "lose" the rear spoiler... and spend the "carbon-fibre" $$$ on WIDER rims/tyres...
or better suspension... or BOTH!... |
I don't care how much advantage S-AWC gives Evo X... it can't reverse the laws of physics.
Similar engine output in E5-6 + 800 lbs LESS weight + More adhesion = BYE, BYE Evo X!
| Quote: | Another reason why I don't want to sell my Evo 6 RS2 and get a newer model!  |
My $0.02�
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rip
Pumpum Conqueror
Joined: 06 Feb 2009
Posts: 17
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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| Sanctifier wrote: | | New Evo owner wrote: | ...do i go with a gsr or an mr edition wheter it be a 7 or 8?
My preference is with a 6fwd gear box but i've had no experience with mistu's version of their 6fwd.
I asked the Q here what's the most common engine failure on the 4g63T engines ... it seems to be blown gaskets.
The other myth/problem i've heard is that transfer cases are a problem too. Can you verify?
Same goes for pistons leaving the block and unbalanced factory engines?
I have forged out blocks as you have recommended, but with the "rival" manufacturer.
cp pistons/rings / acl race bearings / cometic gaskets / arp head studs etc.
I do plan to go this route if needs be on the evo block.
pls point me in the right direction wrt to info. I will never know everything but welcome any help. |
I will never know everything... Padna, NOBODY knows everything about anything... especially here! IMHO we all here to learn from each other.
point me in the right direction wrt to info... Here yuh go... Link--> The Mitsubishi Madmen.
After try the Mitsubishi Lancer Register (UK) and evolutionm.net (USA)
See "The Directory" page at The Mitsubishi Madmen Forum.
Other issues:
do i go with a gsr or an mr... Depends on what's available.
| Quote: | | IMHO your best bet is an E7 or E8 RS model... It's LIGHTER... No AYC (stronger rear LSD... better for drags)... Front helical LSD, like all MR models (MOST important part for GREAT handling) |
My preference is with a 6fwd gear box...
| Quote: | Heavier and more fragile than 5-speed.
You don't need 6-speed if you increase torque when upgrading engine.
6-speed also SLOWER in 1/4 mile drags... |
the most common engine failure... seems to be blown gaskets...
| Quote: | Nope... con-rod bolts
(ppl will say con-rods but the bolts are the issue.) |
transfer cases are a problem too...
| Quote: | | Yup, especially with GSRs. They have an "open" front diff (no front LSD) in transfer case... That causes most of the problems IMHO. Evo 8-9 MR has front helical LSD... MUCH stronger, less issues. (BTW so do ALL Evo 4-9 RS models.) |
unbalanced factory engines?...
| Quote: | | Yuh lost me here. All 4G63 have two balance shafts. Leave them in. |
forged out blocks as you have recommended, but with the "rival" manufacturer...
| Quote: | What rival manufacturer? DON'T buy anything for the engine until you buy the car.
You need the block for measurements first. |
My $0.02� |
that should be new aspiring evo owner
thanks for the reply....have a couple questions.. |
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rip
Pumpum Conqueror
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| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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so here goes .."fantasy question" for now...
from reading / gathering info it seems that a stock evo 9 can put down abt 230 to 260 awhp....
so i'm already plotting out an easy cost effective way to reach the 300 to 310 awhp and tq mark in a safe and reliable manner
1. instrumentation
- water temp / oil temp / oil pressure / boost / egt (defi)
- AFR
- water meth gauge (aquamist dds3 v
2. Water Meth kit (preferrably trunkmount - used coolingmist before)
With this item I'm not sure what is the preferred WAMI kit for the evo. I've used the coolingmist varicool contoller with s-hsv valve with great results when it came to injection at precise time and pulse on an STi (can post dyno chats and write ups but not the best way to start for a first post in the mistu mad men forum...lol)
There is a slight "hang-up" though in that the pump supplied provides a pulsing input but can be easily changed to a constant positive pressure for abt 60TT...
3. Full 3" TBE - heat wrap on DP
Would the 3 pointers above achieve my goals? |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 6:25 am Post subject: |
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... Gimme some time to think first, please. I'll reply later.
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 9:36 am Post subject: |
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| rip wrote: | ...from reading / gathering info it seems that a stock evo 9 can put down abt 230 to 260 awhp....
so i'm already plotting out an easy cost effective way to reach the 300 to 310 awhp and tq mark in a safe and reliable manner
1. instrumentation
- water temp / oil temp / oil pressure / boost / egt (defi)
- AFR
- water meth gauge (aquamist dds3 v
2. Water Meth kit (preferrably trunkmount - used coolingmist before)
With this item I'm not sure what is the preferred WAMI kit for the evo. I've used the coolingmist varicool contoller with s-hsv valve with great results when it came to injection at precise time and pulse on an STi (can post dyno chats and write ups but not the best way to start for a first post in the mistu mad men forum...lol)
There is a slight "hang-up" though in that the pump supplied provides a pulsing input but can be easily changed to a constant positive pressure for abt 60TT...
3. Full 3" TBE - heat wrap on DP
Would the 3 pointers above achieve my goals? |
First off, my apologies for taking so long to reply... I forgot.  Just checked my "inbox" today.
BTW dyno charts and write ups... will always be appreciated. 
As far as the Water/Meth kit... you obviously know much more about that than I do.
Please post some recommendations... and DIY Setup instructions for a Water/Meth kit.
Full 3" TBE - heat wrap on DP... Yup I agree with the 3" i.d. exhaust system.
IMHO use "Heat wrap" on the downpipe (to reduce oil temperature in the sump)
... but keep it away from all exhaust joints to prevent cracking.
BTW as heat wrap will also retain moisture, it may be a better idea to "google" adhesive
heat barriers for the sump instead.
As far as your 300-310 WHP & WTQ goals... That should be relatively easy to achieve.
| Quote: | BUDGET TUNE: Using what you already have.
1. EXHAUST... 3" "turbo back" system as mentioned.
2. REFLASH... I've heard some horror stories recently, so IMHO go with mail-in reflash.
... i.e. Mellon Racing. Check vendors page on evolutionm.net
3. Let him tune for your setup INCLUDING the Water/Meth kit for best results and safe operation.
That's it... You're there! |
IMHO you'll soon get fedup with just 300-310 WTQ and WHP... (notice the order)
| Quote: | "STAGED TUNING:" Basic upgrades to allow "headroom" for future development...
1. EXHAUST... 3" "turbo back" system as mentioned.
2. TURBO... CBRD BBK... or EvoGREEN... or Tomei ARMS-M7960 (in order of cost.)
3. FUEL PUMP... Walbro HD 255 lph in-tank pump.
4. CAMS... "Mild Street Use"... HKS 272's...
............... "Hairy Street Use"... Your choice (Jun / Cosworth?)
............... IMHO I would choose milder cams for a daily driver.
5. REFLASH... As discussed above, IMHO go with mail-in reflash.
... i.e. Mellon Racing. Check vendors page on evolutionm.net
... let him tune for your setup INCLUDING the Water/Meth kit for best results and safe operation. |
That should get you about 400+ WTQ and WHP... That should be enough for the first six months!
BTW these will make your ride more pleasant as a daily driver...
| Quote: | 1. EXHAUST: Add a "flow-through" resonator (Cherry Bomb?) in place of CAT.
2. Dynamat Kit (or similar) inside passenger compartment and trunk floor etc.
Dampening vibrations and NOISE may be the BEST upgrade that you ever do! |
My $0.02�
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rip
Pumpum Conqueror
Joined: 06 Feb 2009
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| Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 8:13 am Post subject: |
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WAMI install
| Quote: | here goes....
1. Remove I/C (need to do this in order to install nozzle)
Tool: 12 spanner, flat blade screwdriver
Process: Undo bolts- not at top hat location (see img). Unbolt bpv, loosen clamps, disconnect hoses. Loosen bolts that hold I/c to intake manifold and repeat on other side. Slide I/c out gently and inspect for any abnormalities.
2. While you're here take a look at all the stuff you hardly see. Look at the place where the engine meets the gear box to locate engine numbers and a set of other numbers i have yet to discern
In addition, you will find the dip stick for the tranny - take a check
3. Pre-fab the trunkmount kit with parts provided.
Tools: knife, crescent, Phillips head
Process: On the trunkmount tank, there is a dimple that you have to cut in order to place the suction hose for the pump. Do so with a knife or drill bit and insert hose.
Insert fitting (its a silver fitting in the pics) on suction side of pump and line up intake nozzle with hose. On doing so, the base plate of the pump will align with pre-installed nuts in the tank to secure it. Ensure hose fits snuggly in fitting and secure pump to tank using screws provided.
On the exhaust side of pump, mount the bypass switch.
wiring is simple
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update: as of point #2....one of the numbers is the transmission type...Hayden had posted an artile on how to read the number.....
| Quote: | 4. In the meanwhile, need to install the nozzle on the I/c
Tools: Tap (will confirm size), drill & bit, hammer, centre punch, vaccuum
Process: locate area where you want the nozzle. Centre punch gently, drill then tap. Using a vaccuum cleaner, clean out the shavings. Screw in nozzle to ensure good seal with oring and nozzle faces correct position when i/c mounts up.
5. Securing tank to trunk.
Tools: knife, centre punch, hammer, drill bit, self thread screws.
Process: Remove carpet from area in trunk you want brackets mounted. Fit up tank with brackets marking the postion of the screws. Centre punch. Place bracket and insert self thread screw. Place carpet over and tailor cut so brackets protrude. Place tank and secure with bungee cords.
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| Quote: | 
so the wiring diagram is very simple. In the case of the S-hsv valve, you got to attach it like....
and then attach it to the red and green wires of the varicool controller as shown in schematic
Please note that for optimum response, place valve as close to injector as possible. You should mock up the position first and run the electrical and hose to it. Connect the valve as shown electrically to the controller. All that is left electrically is to power the pump and controller.
connections to the controller are pretty simple....as you can see from the pic above. Connections are labelled. Now this controller can be controlled via MAF 0-5 voltage or a vaccuum boost signal via the brass fitting on the left of the controller.
Simply connect one end of the boost line supplied to the boost port on the controller. Install the other end of the line before the restrictor pill using a T-fitting. You will need a knife to cut the line and a T not supplied with the kit.
Remember the pump in the trunk??? Give it a good ground. Put a spade type connector at this end. Do the same for the power side.
Get a proper 10amp fuse and use it to bridge the ground and power side. (This serves as protection and an easy way to unplug system)
Run the power line to varicool controller.
There is a red and black wire on the controller with a fuse attached to one of the wires. These are the leads for the controller. You can parallel the varicool power and pump power connections to your 12V ignition source.
In this case I used the lighter which only comes on when key is turned to ACC.
That's it in a nutshell. I will have to fill this out with proper pics but can't do this for a while....may take some weeks.
THanks goes out to Riderz, Frameone and W2J(Gerrard) without whom this would not be possible |
edit: for more info on water meth injection please refer to http://www.scoobytnt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=92&t=5460&st=0&sk=t&sd=a
Articles courtesy http://www.subytuners.com; http://www.subiecrew.com
apologies for late reply as well |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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Fantastic post rip. Thanks a lot.
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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| 2nr wrote: | Good day to you sir,
... my engine it seems to be an evo4 engine ('one piece' flanged thrust bearing)...
machined and honed my block for new .020" pistons decked and cleaned it... crankshaft journals were damaged due to a seized balance shaft and also from extensive high rpms (no rev limit with a gt3582r ...) i had it reground to fit undersized bearings which i already have also...
i know about the nitride coating and so on...
i know the tolerance must be in spec for oil clearances on the main and rods... and also for crankshaft end play...
my thrust washer from the std crank before the rebuild is in good condition the face if it (the sides of the crank) but the journal side of the bearing was worn...
i didn't do a crank tolerance check before the engine was disassembled...
the car had absolutely no symptoms of crankwalk...
it would be costly to buy another block and have it honed and bored for my forgings...
do you know of any shops that align bore the block in prep for new bearings?...
do all 4g63t crankshaft have the same dimensions? from evo1-9?...
i was thinking if it was different because of the newer model 4g63t's 3 piece thrust washer design...
might as well buy an engine...
2nr |
Hi 2nr. Sorry to take so long to get back to you.
Good day to you sir... To begin with, forget the "Sir" all the time. I'm Wade.
A lot of questions here... with a lot of possible answers too.
I'll try to take them one at a time first... then give a personal opinion at the end.
machined and honed my block for new .020" pistons... decked it... crankshaft journals... reground to fit undersized bearings which i already have also... So basically, that particular block is already machined for that crank and +0.020" piston set...
IMHO I'd be VERY CAUTIOUS to use a GT35R with that particlar block though.
the journal side of the bearing was worn... If this means that the thrust faces of the block's "saddles" were damaged as well... IMHO I would REPLACE the block... and the crank
do you know of any shops that align bore the block in prep for new bearings?... Never had to get that kind of work done.
PM BANzai or sideways69 on 3ne 2nr Forum for suggestions. Let me know who has line-boring equipment please.
do all 4g63t crankshaft have the same dimensions? from evo1-9?... I don't know for sure... Conflicting info here...
I do know that Evo 6 block and crank were serviced as a "color-coded" matched set... complete with "color-coded" "micro-sized" bearing sets
    
Though Mitsu went that route before... I can't find any info that suggests that they still use "micro-sized" bearings for the E7-E9 short block.
Now for my opinion...
| Quote: | no rev limit ...... IMHO not a good idea for future use.
I assume you already have a "stand alone" ECU to have "no rev-limit" restriction...?
If yes, reset rev-limit to suit application... If not, reflash OEM ECU to similar limits.
...with a gt3582r... I assume your 4G63 is a 2 litre. Even at 0.020 over, maybe a GT3582R is too laggy
and too much turbo for a rebuilt (and questionable) 2-litre E4 block in a daily-driver? |
might as well buy an engine... Or maybe look at THREE alternatives for different budgets...
| Quote: | 1) Build what you have... E4 block + 0.020 pistons + (sell GT35R kit) + buy E9, EvoGREEN (etc.) turbo... ENJOY!
2) Build what you have... E4 block + 0.020 pistons... Then sell short block! and GT35R
Now... buy E7-9 block + 2.3 STROKER kit + FP Red or FP Black... ENJOY!
3) Build what you have... E4 block + 0.020 pistons... Then sell short block! (less GT35R)
Now... buy E7-9 2.3 STROKER short-block + GT35R... ENJOY! |
Hope this helps. Let me know what you decided.
Wade.
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Sat Nov 06, 2010 4:38 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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| 2nr wrote: | anyone knows whats the difference between the gsr lancer 4g93t and the evo 4 4g63t?
i know the engine is different but what makes it so different?
and whats the difference in the make of the gsr and the evo?
suspension and body wise? |
Milage: This is the most important issue IMHO...
Fill up a stock Evo every 1-2 days... Fill up a stock GSR TWICE WEEKLY... Yup, I own both.
| Quote: | Differences: 4G93 ........................................4G63 from E4
Torque......: 270 Nm (200 lb-ft) @ 3000rpm.........353 Nm (282 lb�ft) @ 3000rpm
Brake HP...: 150kw (205 bhp) @ 6000rpm ......... 203 kW (276 bhp) @ 6500rpm |
This is what I posted on MLR a while ago...
| nixtt wrote: | In a nutshell "GSR" in Mitsuland refers to two different things...
1)_ A model in its own right: eg. Lancer / Libero / Lancer GSR / Lancer Evolution etc.
_ i.e. Lancer GSR is a 4-wheel drive, 1835cc (4G93), DOHC turbo/intercooled model; with 195 ps in 1994 (CD5A) and 205 ps in 1996 model (CM5A)
Think of it as the little brother to the Lancer Evolution model.
2)_ A term used to define a different level of trim and equipment fitted to certain Lancer Evolution models...
_ i.e. Evos 4-9 come with different levels of equipment and upholstery... RS, GSR etc.
_ Evo GSRs have a rear AYC (Active Yaw Control), Brembo brakes, climate control, power windows and mirrors, rear wiper, etc. etc.
See here... http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?t=781
More details in the Evolution Buyers' Guide , here...
http://www.lancerregister.com/art_evobuyersguide.php |
For more GSR and Evo info check here... Link--> The Mitsubishi Madmen.
For GSR-to-Evo Conversion info check here... Link--> How To "Evolutionize" your Lancer!
This might help too...
| Quote: | IMHO if you have a FWD Lancer... use a 4G93 (if available.)
If you have a 4WD Lancer GSR... use a 4G63.
BTW for my RWD Lancer 1800 GSR (Yup, that too!) I'd like to use 4G93 from 4wd Lancer GSR for better milage.
Less bottom-end torque than SOHC 2.0 G63BT (available too) but more power. Perfect for RWD daily driver IMHO. |
My $0.02�
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:35 pm Post subject: |
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| 2nr wrote: | | which evo 9 cums wit the 6 speed tranny? |
Here's what says...
| Quote: | Evolution IX is offered in three trim levels. The flagship GSR grade features Mitsubishi Motors' cutting-edge ACD*2 + Super AYC*3 + Sports ABS*4 electronically controlled all-wheel control component system and a 6-speed manual gearbox. The motorsport-specification RS uses a special lightweight body, a new titanium-magnesium turbocharger, 5-speed gearbox and ACD + mechanical rear LSD all-wheel control. New for Evolution IX is the GT grade that brings together RS's turbocharger and drivetrain specification and GSR's comfort-bias body with its enhanced sound deadening. Allowing owners to customize their Evolution IX's to individual needs and preferences, a comprehensive range of factory- and dealer-fitted options as well as Ralliart tuning and dress up parts are available...
...The 5-speed transmission used on the RS and GT derives from the close-ratio competition gearbox but has a revised top gear ratio for improved high-speed cruising... |
Looks like E9 GSRs and MRs (and UK FQ series) have 6-speed...
while E9 RSs and GTs have 5-speed gearbox as standard...
Though AFAIK the 5-speed can be ordered as an option for any model of Evo 9.
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Sanctifier
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 6:32 pm Post subject: |
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| Sanctifier wrote: | What's your application?...Daily driver?...Solodex?...Both?
What's your budget?
What WHP limit are you looking for? |
| Senior 2NR wrote: | ...In the vicinity of 320-350 with safe but similar torque numbers. After my reading and experiences, I was considering the following mods:
A well tuned Power FC
some streetable but more aggressive cams,
a water meth kit and
an upgraded turbo (my research on turbos is limited at this point).
Presently I have (supposedly) forged internals...
extractors, full Monster Sport 3" exhaust...
Monster Sport intake, Greddy (Gracer) filter, Top Speed intercooler and piping with Samco hoses...
and Greddy ebc some other electronics and gauges...
cusco coilovers...
I considered this to be a great start... Yup.
...but Once I decide to further mod the car I will be verifying the integrity and life-expectancy of the present mods and I'll be doing a full check on the chassis for any imperfections. ...
I know that you'd be in a position to tell me what I should and shouldn't do so the advice/ assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again... and belated thanks for all your other past posts which serve to cleanse some of the threads and inform the less knowledgable like myself.
Senior 2NR |
Hi Senior 2NR,
320-350...Since you can get 320-350 bhp now (+ reflash) I assume you mean 320-350 WHP & WTQ. IMHO with your wish-list, at least another reliable 100 WHP and WTQ should be available.
The budget is somewhat limited for now... So forget about fancy parts...but your "wish list" will still cost BIG $$$.
Suggestions:...
Power FC... IMHO this is a waste of money at this level of power. It has no OEM OBDII protocols available either.
IMHO the OEM ECU guarantees the reliability needed for a daily-driver. These days, ECU reflashes are reliably used for 500 WHP...or more. BTW a used Evo 7-8 ECU (ebay) will make life easier.
You might be better off with an email "reflash subscription" from Mellon Racing.
That way Mellon can fine-tune your setup for as long as necessary...including future tuning for added upgrades.
cams... Yup, "bigger" cams are good...but if you're going for Solodex then you don't need too much cam.
The higher the lift...the greater the duration...and the more the torque curve moves to the right...
i.e. the higher the rpm limit at peak torque Not ideal for Solodex starts IMHO.
water meth kit... Definately! Great engine insurance and a great tuning aid.
upgraded turbo... BINGO! This is the most important upgrade (after a turbo-back 3" exhaust.) BTW you need bigger injectors too. The link below will show you the flow-rate for most popular turbos...
Link--> The "Best" Turbo Upgrade for Evo 4G63 daily driver.
Just remember that (like cams) "too big" isn't good for Solodex...Turbo lag is even worse than higher rpm at peak torque. IMHO the new FP Evo Green is perfect for a 2.0L...or even for smaller "strokers."
My $0.02¢
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:07 am Post subject: |
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| 2nr Boy wrote: | ...I just wanted to run this by you...I got a ck lancer 4g15 tiptronic..and im thinking about doing an upgrade
4g93t with a galant tiptronic transmission
some eclipse brakes
and prob a suspension upgrade...how do you think ill fear out??
dont really wanna change the transmission yet bcuz my mom still drives this car as well but could you give me some pointers as to a price and maybe some advice on what parts ill need to change and so on??
thanks much it'll be greatly appreciated.. |
Hi 2nr Boy,
ck lancer...4g93t with a galant tiptronic transmission... IMHO a 4G93T swap in a FWD shell is a safe bet. Better than a Mivec IMHO.
A Galant Tiptronic (1800 GDI) is a straight "bolt-on" and should be reliable.
With the 4G93's torque & hp, ft. & rr. top strut bars (with fender braces if you can afford them) are good enough.
If you want more, then "stitch welding" around the strut towers will be more than adequate.
| Sanctifier wrote: | | If you want to reduce Noise, Vibration & Harshness issues and improve handling too, then strip the interior and inject FoamSeal into the rocker panels and inner (floor) box sections...Great for a QUIET ride...and for Rust-proofing too. |
Recommendations for FWD (and other) upgrades here...
Link--> How To "Evolutionize" your Lancer!
This might help too...
eclipse brakes... A brake upgrade is the FIRST thing to do.
I don't think that Eclipse brakes are a bolt-on job into a "ck." AFAIK they are more suited to older "cc / cd" Lancers.
| Sanctifier wrote: | Use Evo 4 2-pot ft. calipers & rotors and ADD Mivec rr. rotors and calipers.
Use the same Master cylinder that the OEM uses with the ft. calipers to avoid pedal travel issues.
IMHO you need much more brakes than that...but at least this setup is a reasonable start. |
prob a suspension upgrade... Nothing "probable" about needing a suspension upgrade here.
BEST: ...... Email Whiteline and buy what they recommend if you can afford it.
2nd BEST: IMHO don't go for lowered "ck" springs...a 4G93T will be heavier than your 4G15.
| Sanctifier wrote: | Look for (slightly) stiffer ft. springs (Evo 4) with stock or Mivec rr. springs...
Uprated dampers (Evo 4 ft. struts & Mivec rr. shocks?), and
stiffer anti-roll bars (again E4 ft. & Mivec rr.)
This should give you more neutral handling with less understeer, in spite of the heavier engine. |
My $0.02¢
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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| E4 2nr wrote: | hello , I noticed u know alot about evos
Im looking for one TME enkei rim,
I also need advice on upgrading an evo 4 , the car came with hks super sqv , hks idling stablizer and hks filter and after market exhaust ,
what can i do to acheive around 350 bhp or 350whp
i know bhp is different from whp
i want the car not to consume too much gas , and have more power and if possible i want it to pull hard like evo 6
its obvious to me the evo 4 feels a bit lazy when compared to a evo 5 or 6 but im working with a budget ,
I soon hope to upgrade to a 7-8-9 after this car... |
SH!T that's a lot of questions, E4 2nr...
I noticed u know alot about evos... A little bit about the E4-E6...but I'm no expert.
I soon hope to upgrade to a 7-8-9 after this car... Then don't bother to upgrade the E4.
BTW if you forget the E7-E9 and upgrade the E4 to an E5 (or E6 TME), you'll have a LIGHTER, FASTER, BETTER HANDLING and better looking car IMHO.
Im looking for one TME enkei rim... VERY hard to find.
Your best bet is to check eBay UK...or better order from CoOrdSport UK etc.
upgrading an evo 4... Here yuh go... Link--> How To "Evolutionize" your Lancer!
Suggestions in order of importance IMHO...
1) FIRST fix everything that doesn't work...Change ALL fluids...Change ALL belts...Change Belt Tensioner...etc. etc.
2) BREMBO Brakes: IMHO this is the most important upgrade. Check eBay first for Evo 8-9 calipers & rotors...(Cheaper & NEWER.) Yup, it's a bolt-on job.
3) Check &/or change front struts & rear shocks to E6 units if available.
Now that you can STOP and HANDLE, buy this...
4) OEM Evo 9 Flywheel, E9 Pressure-plate & E9 Clutch-disk...or Exedy single-disk clutch kit,
...or Exedy twin-disk clutch kit if you can afford it.
Now that you can handle more torque, buy & install this...
5) ARP Cylinder-head Stud kit...
6) Next you need more FUEL...and better Fuel & Ignition Maps...so Modify your harness...use E7-E8 ECU...swap E4 injectors for E5-E9 injectors (with OEM E5-E9 turbo ONLY!)
If using an FP Green turbo you MUST use bigger (750-880 cc/min.) injectors...but email Forced Performance for optimum size.
Finally, now that you can handle more boost safely, buy this...
7) FP Green Turbo...
Yup VERY expensive, but you can use it on your next Evo too...and it's good for at least 450 WHP!
Link--> The "Best" Turbo Upgrade for Evo 4G63 daily driver.
hks idling stablizer... What is this? Pix please.
hks filter... This is not as efficient as the OEM air-box with a K&N flat-panel filter.
after market exhaust... What is the diameter? You need 2.75" for a lightly modded engine & 3" for this list and above.
to acheive around 350 bhp or 350whp...
Use an Evo 8 MR...any E5...or an E6 RS turbo with E5-8 ECU and Injectors, for at least 350 BHP...after a Reflash.
| Sanctifier wrote: | Try a "mail-in" reflash from Mellon Racing in USA.
You will need harness mods (good electrician needed first) and an E7-E8 ECU to do a reflash.
Another option is a more expensive Apexi Power FC. |
Use an Evo 9 turbo for at least 365 WHP...after a Reflash.
Use an FP HTA Green turbo for at least 415-475 WHP (depends on add-ons)...after a Reflash.
A well-maintained stock E4 is just as quick as an E6. Sounds like you have a boost-leak...and need a tune-up and a reflash.
My $0.05¢
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Sanctifier
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Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 4:39 am Post subject: |
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| 2nr r wrote: | Good day...I've got a Cb Lancer with a 4g13 engine that runs pretty well...but it only reaches about 130kmph then the engine screams if i try to push it harder on the highway..I'm not on the turbo scene, just want a lil more power available when needed....Presently,I don't have the funds to transplant a more powerful engine (i refuse to go GA15 or SR20DE anyway)....so I just wanted to know from you what cud be done to enhance performance besides changing spark plugs, air filter and oil n filter (things i did recently)....It's a carb engine....the transmission was also rebuilt early last year.
also can you advise what engine would be best for the CB3 when funds are available?...4g15, 4g92Mivec or 4g18...in terms of parts, which of them are most readily available.
thanks for ur time. |
Presently,I don't have the funds to transplant... Then IMHO just leave well enough alone for now...and save your money for a transplant later.
There's little you can do to give you a significant power/toque increase that won't cost an arm and a leg (cams & extractors / 1-off turbo kit etc.)...and the 4g13 and gearbox may not offer too many viable options anyway.
IMHO if you must keep the CB3 then your options may be...
ECONO-OPTIONS: IMHO avoid...unless you can get the engine & gearbox (4g15 or 4g18 etc.) almost FREE. You'll soon be dissatisfied with the small torque/power increase for the amount of $$$ spent.
MID-RANGE POWER OPTIONS: A 4G93T is the best but VERY rare and EXPENSIVE! and parts are a B!TCH to find...so just forget about this one unless a miracle happens.
This is your best bet IMHO... A foreign used, early (left-side) 1600 Mivec & box in good condition may be harder to find now but should be a straightforward swap.
* Just install early Gen 1 Mivec... or Gen 1 4wd GSR brake system (everything) and front suspension as well...or best of all use Evo 3 or 4 brake system...front suspension...and bigger wheels.
BIG POWER OPTIONS: * All need brake & suspension option above.
1) CHEAPEST: Gen 1 US Eclipse FWD N/A 4G63 and gearbox or trans...
2) NOT SO CHEAP: Gen 1 US Eclipse FWD Turbo 4G63 and gearbox or trans...
3) VERY EXPENSIVE: Evolution 1-3 Turbo 4G63 and Gen 1 US Eclipse FWD gearbox or trans...
4) Forget about 4WD conversions and other experiments. They can be done...but IMHO it's better to sell the CB3 and just buy a decent Evo 6 or Evo 7...Cheaper (and more reliable) in the long run too.
My $0.02¢,
Wade.
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