Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:53 pm Post subject:
Rory Phoulorie wrote:
...Is it that you just drill some holes in the panels and then inject the foam?
How do you know when the section has been filled with foam? I was expecting to see
some starting to flow out from some of the other holes indicating that it was full?
Could this foam be procured locally?
^ ^ ^ drill some holes in the panels and then inject... Hi Rory, AFAIK you usually mask off most of the
existing holes and use the few left as fill (and flow-out) points.
I assume that this works best using a slightly lower (height) fill point with the hole(s) at the
upper end open, to allow "flow-out".
Quote:
CAUTION: Higher density (8 lb +) foam sometimes "sets up" so quickly that only very short
sections can be filled at a time.
More info in future 240SX/Sylvia S14 chassis foaming article.
Sanctifier wrote:
To make life easier... and to get better quality work, I'm going to build a rotisserie before
I start any bodywork or chassis foaming on any of my projects.
Rotisserie........
expecting to see some starting to flow out... Yup, it does. The excess flows out the holes left open.
IMHO that's the only way to know if the box-section is properly filled.
procured locally?... I don't know if this is available here.
Earlier links show some suppliers. Other foreign alternatives are available too.
I'll scan articles on foam-filling a Nissan 300 ZX and a 240 SX/Sylvia S14 and post
a new thread soon. _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue Jan 13, 2009 5:39 am; edited 2 times in total
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 5:28 am Post subject:
Sanctifier wrote:
IMHO by stiffening the chassis for better handling, we're also reducing the effectiveness
of the OEM "crumple zones." Forces generated in an accident tend to follow the "line of least
resistance." They'll be transmitted to other areas of the passenger compartment/floor-pan.
That might increase the risk to the driver and pasengers too, not so?
Also wouldn't hitting your head on the thin plastic trim of the "B-pillar" and the door do just
as much (if not more) damage? Looks like your head will hit the belt buckle first too. (below)
Maybe I'll be better off using a HANS-type seat (previous post)... PLUS 4-point harness...
PLUS two-stage padding for the cage, than with nothing at all in a stiffened chassis.
That's why I suggested using a full harness plus a seat that helps to protect my head too.
Rory, care to comment on making allowances (after strengthening the chassis) for the
absorbtion of energy from an accident? (ref. OEM "crumple zones" ~ above.)
I need an opinion from an engineer's perspective. In particular, whether there is
any need to use a HAN-style seat, in an "occasional" street car with a roll-cage.
More suggestions to improve the safety of a "chassis-stiffened" street car will be appreciated. _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
if you are using your roll-cage equipped streetcar for track days or competition, the HANS
would be extra safety (at an albeit high cost)
Keep in mind a steering mounted airbag serves a similar purpose, ie cradling your head and
neck, at least in a frontal impact... as for lateral loads (getting t-boned for example) a steering
mounted airbag is not much help. In a nutshell, HANS is expensive but if u can afford it,
use it on track or in wheel-to-wheel competition _________________
I know it's so, for I told me so
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
Posted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 3:18 am Post subject:
UPDATE: Here's actual proof that expanded urethane foam works...
It's now standard issue for most OEMs...Ford... BMW... etc. etc.
And if FoamSeal is difficult to find, here's an even better alternative... TEROCORE.
It's so good that BMW use it as an OEM Dealer 'fix' for cracks in the E46 rear axle support (sheetmetal floor) area...
hoju1301 @ M3 Forum.net wrote:
There are several weakspots on the rear subframe. First being the mounting points to the chassis/subframe.
Second being the piece of sheet metal that is spot welded inside the trunk, that you have to cut to gain access to.
This gives you an idea of just how strong Terocore really is...
hoju1301 @ M3 Forum.net wrote:
...a weld bead (TIG) of about 1/4 inch radius and 1" long is capable of holding around 1,000lbs, depending on the alloy, heat treat, etc. But when we tested Terocore to bond two A36 steel plates together (rather than weld), strength exceeded over 2,000lbs.
Note: There are a number of Terocore types available for different applications; so research first before ordering. _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 4:00 pm Post subject:
UPDATE: Here's the detailed DIY thread using BMW's recommended fix,Epoxy & TEROCORE...
Link-->DIY: Subframe reinforcement epoxy/foam method. e46 _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
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