THE ASYLUM!... Workshops & Tools for DIY MadMen.

Sanctifier · Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 12:00 pm Post subject:

More on car lifts... The UNIC Strongman 12-volt and BendPak ML-6 portable auto fork-lifts are other flexable alternatives.
Both units are out of production but hopefully are still available on the "used" market (eBay.)
Both have more "head room" (72") than the MaxJax for guys over 6 ft. like me.

wagonrunner · Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 4:45 pm Post subject:

I'm afraid to froogle the cost. but one of that on the canter's lift could be bloody useful at race events.
_________________
PROUD MEMBER OF D WAGON BOYZ @ DEX
I Refuse To Have A Battle Of Wits With Unarmed Persons

Any man who can hitch the length and breadth of the galaxy, rough it, slum it, struggle against terrible odds, win through, and still knows where his towel is, is clearly a man to be reckoned with.

Sanctifier · Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 7:16 am Post subject:

useful at race events... The Workhorse weighs 1,760 lbs; similar to the Bend Pak/Unic... but the column is 8' 6".

There's a used Unic (leaking seal but new seal kit incl.) for $2500...
Unfortunately "Local pick-up" only. Rolling Eyes

A new Workhorse is $2,799 delivered to my Freight-forwarders in Miami.

I may have to go this way because I called Bend Pak and some of their Main Dealers yesterday... No luck!
_________________
Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!

Sanctifier · Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:29 am Post subject:

^ ^ ^ DONE!
Yay!!!

At last!... Bow Down

My own lift.

Sanctifier · Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 5:43 pm Post subject:

^ ^ ^ For those who also have limited room to spare but no floods to worry about, this may be another option...
"2-car" parking in "1-car" space... and full underbody access as well. (Those are removable "drip trays" in the pic)

...............

Link--> Kernel 6,000 LB Single Post Storage Auto Lift.
_________________
Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!

Sanctifier · Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 7:32 pm Post subject:

UPDATE: Added a few more 'toys' to the ToyRoom over the last few weeks...

........................... Car-O-Mech .................. and M900 3D Measuring Systems...
as well as Car-O-Liner Frame Data Manuals... a dozen or more Mo Clamps... Mo Clamp 'Baby' Tram Gauge... etc. etc.

Autotron Induction Heater (New @ a "killer" eBay price!) Cool

Sanctifier · Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:49 am Post subject:

Okay time to let the cat out of the bag... I got lucky recently.
I scored a Saitek_Weilander-Schill 490-ATLW water-cooled spot welder at a VERY reasonable price.
If it works well, then "weld-bonding" will be a breeze during the restoration.

It should arrive next week. Trying to install by mid-February if all goes well. 60 amp circuit req'd.
I don't want to 'hard-wire' a "fixed" installation, so I'm hunting a suitable "disconnect" (plug) for it. Suggestions are appreciated.

(Sample pic of "air-cooled" unit)................ ("Parts car" on Car-O-Liner for measurements.)

GroceryGetter is already 2 weeks behind schedule; so hoping to have all other tools & equipment by then too.
M900 upper body measuring system (uprights) should arrive with welder...
Up next, about 2-3 weeks of measurements and drawings... while the GSR gets MoT inspection & sticker.
_________________
Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!

Sanctifier · Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 2:58 pm Post subject:

I've been dreaming for YEARS about replacing my Old Man's 1917-1920's South Bend 16/24in Engine lathe...

I still have all his South Bend 16" Attachments so I needed another unit of the same size.

VK-Sportsman · Zorce Jedi Apprentice Joined: 05 Nov 2005 Posts: 933

Uncle Sanctifier, with your vast knowledge and experience, would you advise to use a 110v Fluxcored Mig Welder to do body repair work.

I've got a 1st gen Vitara that has some "rotten" spots on the flooring and side sills, so my plan is to attempt the repair work myself. Cool

_________________
Feel the Power of the Racing Zorce

Sanctifier · Posted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:51 am Post subject:

...with your vast knowledge and experience... Please! Rolling Eyes

I'm no welder my friend. Other 2nrs are far more competent to give an opinion.
For what it's worth ($0.02¢), IMHO a "flux core" MIG is miles better than an Oxy/Acet torch but there are better alternatives... "spot-welding" comes to mind. Best of all, "weld-bonding" offers the best mix of strength and temperature control required by modern metal alloys used in cars today.
......

Link--> Quarter Panel Installation (Weld Bond) - Fusor 108B.

Fluxcored Mig Welder... This may be okay for the floor sections but maybe not for the "thinner" side sills. If that's what you have then use it if the budget doesn't allow for an upgrade. Depending upon the model, decent heat control may still be possible for the side sills... but still use weld-bonding in all areas for corrosion-resistant, water-proof repairs.

If you can afford it, buy a 115V Electric Spot Welder (US $136.00) and some Fusor 111B 1.7oz Metal Patch Panel Adhesive (US $22.00).
This will give you a better quality finish and make the job quicker and stronger too...Eastwood Panel Flanger - Extra Wide. (US $41.00)

You'll have to drill or punch holes in one panel before using the MIG. If you have a compressor this will be quicker & easier than a hand punch or drill... Flanger/Punch Tool Pneumatic 7/32". (US $99.00)

Then go to YouTube for user instructions... and "get down to it."
Please post a thread here on Mitsubishi

MadMen with details of the repair. Thanks.

My $0.02¢
_________________
Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!

VK-Sportsman · Zorce Jedi Apprentice Joined: 05 Nov 2005 Posts: 933

Well whenever someone comes across this thread and this forum, they would instantly know you're the guy with all the best toys, and surely "knows his stuff". Mr. Green

Anyways, yes I am on a budget as I have to allocate finances to other areas such as electrical, brakes and suspension.

The welder is a Lincoln Electric WeldPak 100.

I was thinking about letting someone do the repairs, but I try my best to do as much DIY as possible as its the only way I learn how to do repairs.
I will be starting on the vehicle by the end of the week and will surely take pictures of progress to post on a thread here. Cool

Thanks for the reply though , it is much appreciated. I have been googling about the topic, and most of other forums are in favour of MIG(Gas) than using Fluxcored MIG for body work.
_________________
Feel the Power of the Racing Zorce

Sanctifier · Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 8:46 am Post subject:

^ ^ ^ Hi Sportsman. Any updates on the bodywork project?
_________________
Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!

VK-Sportsman · Zorce Jedi Apprentice Joined: 05 Nov 2005 Posts: 933

Sorry for the late reply......project has been parked up for a good while, just waiting on a free Sunday to tackle/complete it.
_________________
Feel the Power of the Racing Zorce

Sanctifier · Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:52 am Post subject:

^ ^ ^ Yup, been there, doin' that! Rolling Eyes

ALL projects are at a standstill while house renovations from the August 2012 flood are done.
Hoping to strip & ship the E6 gearbox and diff to the US before Xmas for upgrade after this mess is finished.
_________________
Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!

VK-Sportsman · Zorce Jedi Apprentice Joined: 05 Nov 2005 Posts: 933

Update on the tools I used for my repair work. Angle grinder with sanding disc to grind the welds. Used a paint remover wheel for a drill to "sand" the flooring, the sound-deadening was removed with a hammer and a flat head screwdriver.
Rustoleum & HB Body etch primer, and final coating with Rustoleum Truck bed liner (pics to follow)

_________________
Feel the Power of the Racing Zorce