My 280zx Project

Dave-ve · Pumpum Conqueror Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 20

Decided that it was time to have a dedicated car for weekends that could be thrashed about without worrying if it will make it to work on Mondays, so after searching around I found a 280zx that was in fairly good condition with a solid body and was mostly stock. Engine was not running but it appeared to be a minor problem.
Bought the car and took it home on a flatbed.

Fiddled around with the engine and confirmed that one of the sensors for the EFI was faulty. Didnt bother to try repairing it as I got an intake manifold and carb from a frend. The carb turned out to be full of mud so I ended up getting a new one for a 720 pickup and a new fuel pump.
Scrapped the EFI system and installed the carby. Engine started right away and ran smoothly, but the rear calipers were leaking and had to be rebuilt before it could be driven.

Dave-ve · Pumpum Conqueror Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 20

Drove the car after the brakes were repaired and found a heap of other problems that were expected. Transmission wasn't shifting, steering rack was leaking, crud was comming out the fuel tank and every piece of rubber on the suspension fell apart the next day.
Fuel tank was sent for cleaning and recoating, prothane kit was sourced and attempted to change the seals on the steering rack. Couldn't find the right seals so the power steering was condemed and the rack was converted to manual.
Found a gearbox at a scrap yard in Felecity and swapped it in without removing the engine and encountered another problem. The flywheel that came with it was rubbing on the shim on the back of the engine when it was started.
Turned out that the flywheel had an inertia ring on the back and probably came off a diesel engine. At this point I decided to remove the engine and clean up and repair the engine bay. While the correct parts were being sourced.

Part of the firewall and inner fender under the battery was almost eaten through by acid and rust. Had to cut out and replace with fresh metal and build a new battery stand.

Dave-ve · Pumpum Conqueror Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 20

Got an aluminium flywheel and an E24 clutch and pressure plate.

The fidanza is on the left and the one I got with the gearbox is on the right. Had to get an E24 clutch and pressure plate to make up for the difference in height.

The flywheel with the inertia ring on the back.

The new flywleel and clutch combo.

Flywheel installed with new pilot bushing.

Engine and box finally back together.
A lot longer than I expected. Was a PITA to get back into the engine bay without damaging the paint. Spent a couple hours with my dad trying to get it back in.

success!

spike · Racing Wind! Joined: 04 Aug 2009 Posts: 326

Really nice! Keep it up, and hope to hear of more progress!

Would you consider replacing the Datsun carb with a 32/36 Weber? I did such a swap for a friend who also has a 280zx, and he reported better performance all round (lower fuel consumption, more power) Mr. Green

There is supposed to be a manifold for your engine that uses TWO 32/36 Webers to feed your hungry monster... Twisted Evil

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Dave-ve · Pumpum Conqueror Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 20

spike, I plan to go back EFI once everything else is sorted out. The main problem with the carbs is there is very little clearence from the top of the carb to the bonnet so an air filter wont fit.

The manifold that you're referring to is the SU manifold with the adapters for the 32/36's. I think the carbs will sit a lot lower with those adaptors. The SU manifolds are reasonably priced on ebay but they are missing the balance tubes.

Dave-ve · Pumpum Conqueror Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 20

This is the adaptor I made to fit an air filter. Restrictive as hell, but it works.

spike · Racing Wind! Joined: 04 Aug 2009 Posts: 326

Why not modify an original air filter or one like it, taking out the filter element, and widen the intake tube to match the diameter of your horizontal intake setup...

(The adaptor you made there is similar to what a Renault 12 comes with (at least, the one I worked on had one like that) and I could have sworn that thing was causing some major restriction... but on the stock engine it seemed to work fine (brings back some memories Very Happy

)

Isn't there at least 4 inches of clearance above the top of the carb?
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Dave-ve · Pumpum Conqueror Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 20

There's only about 1 1/2" clearance from the top of the carb. Tried a bunch if air filters but none would fit.

MG Man · Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 11:08 pm Post subject:

wow
awesome project
is this Finbar's old car by chance?
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I know it's so, for I told me so

Dave-ve · Pumpum Conqueror Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 20

Yes, it's Finbars old car.

MG Man · Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:46 am Post subject:

sweet
just last week he was giving me the rundown Mr. Green

_________________

I know it's so, for I told me so

Dave-ve · Pumpum Conqueror Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 20

After installing the engine I decided to modernise the wiring for reliability. The Ignition switch had burnt out during one of my test drives.
The original wiring has been removed and replaced with brand new wiring that is a lot simpler and without all the boxes in the engine bay. The entire front up to the dashboard has been rewired, new ignition switch installed and combination switch has been serviced. The engine starts with the ignition key and all gauges are working with the exception of the clock. It seems to have burnt out. The alternator got fried during testing and now outputs 15 V. Have to get it repaired.

Dave-ve · Pumpum Conqueror Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 20

Just finished fixing the floor in the drivers side. There was a big hole under the pedals.

All the rust has been removed and replaced with fresh metal.

Also discovered some holes under the A pillar. The fender was removed and I hope to repair it by next weekend.

Plex · Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:30 pm Post subject:

this looking good.

Dave-ve · Pumpum Conqueror Joined: 22 Jun 2009 Posts: 20

Haven't updated in a while.

Fender is back on and the wiring is finished. Interior has been striped, cleaned and primed.

Changed a portion of flooring on the passenger side along with a piece of channel under the floor. The floor of the car is now completely sealed.

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Still have to secure the wiring and reinstall the dash.

Alternator has died again after repair. It has to be replaced. My spare SR20 alternator can work but a spacer will have to be machined for the pulley. A friend is using a B15 alternator in his 120y and says it is a direct fit as this alternator comes with a spacer behind the pulley.
Will have to check the cost of machining a spacer vs the B15 alternator.

Meanwhile I've picked up an SU manifold on ebay. was considering a dual throttle setup. If I can find a decent pair of 32/36 carbs I may try them until I can get the EFI setup.