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Sanctifier
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 Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 6:02 pm Post subject: "GroceryGetter!" - Lancer 1800 GTX (A175X.) |
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WELCOME HOME! ...
BEFORE... "Donor Car" - Unwashed & unpolished.
 | Sanctifier wrote: | Yesterday, (1/05/12) I got a Lancer 1.4 EX Saloon (A172A) "parts-car" in "mint"... no, make that  "FANTASTIC" condition.
EVERYTHING works perfectly. Underneath is even better than the interior... (seriously.) The body-shell is like "NEW!"
Even the tyres (and ALLOY rims) are in VERY good condition. It's in MUCH better condition than the car that I drive now.
DAMN!... The bonnet... windscreen washer bottle... firewall and other parts still have the original  labels!
. . . . . . . . IT WAS BUILT IN 1983! . . . TWENTY-NINE (29!) YEARS AGO! . . . . . . . and the odometer still
only reads 92,098 km (57,227 miles)  ... I may be wrong but seeing the overall condition... I BELIEVE IT! |
 
 
The brown marks in the pix are dirt and sawdust (go figure!) ... NOT rust.
... It's a pity that I have to... CUT IT UP!...  ... but I've been planning this "build" for over five years!
| Sanctifier wrote: | FOR SALE!
 Engine (G12B - 1400 cc)... (with A/C Compressor)... Cooling system... Exhaust system... Rear Axle (Diff)...
5-speed gear-box & Clutch... Front & Rear suspension & Brakes (incl. booster)... & Front & Rear Seats. |
Why cut it up? ... | Sanctifier wrote: | Because like they say... "Gopaul luck eh Seepaul luck!"
No "phoney" License Plates... No "welding on" Chassis Numbers... No "swapped" firewall... NOTHING bogus for me.
 After investing so much TIME & $$$$ into it, I refuse to risk having it impounded by the Licensing Office!
Even worse! Unregistered Chassis = VOID INSURANCE! (& Driver's Permit!) = YOU MUST PAY ALL CLAIMS!! 
Pointless trying to "dodge" Police road blocks or M.o.T. Inspections  FOREVER!, just to reduce the "build" time! 
IIRC there's a Lamborghini owner (Gopaul?)  who has similar issues right now  ... Not me!.... I'll cut it up! |
 Instead of using inferior (thin guage) steel sheet to do "cut & patch" rust repairs; having a "mint" donor car allows me
to replace all the rusty panels in my Lancer 1800 GSR with OEM panels...
| Sanctifier wrote: | MAJOR BITS: "A" Pillars & Cowl... Parcel Shelf & Trunk Support Panels... Roof Panel ( Power Sun-roof Installation) etc.
MINOR BITS: Bonnet... Trunk Lid... Doors etc. |
| Sanctifier wrote: | GTX "Build" starts in Jan 2013... I have to get my Evo 6 RS2 back on the road first. It's been stored for almost five years, so... General Maintenance req'd:
Electrical & ALL sensors, belts, fluids, hubs, bearings, ball-joints... ALL from the UK! Then U.S. gearbox & LSD rebuild, tyres, etc. etc... $$$$ 
Yup, it's a lot of work... and headaches ... but when I've finished (hopefully in +/- 36-42 months after *start up*) I'll have a...
"Brand New" LEGAL Lancer 1800 GSR (A175A)... or more accurately, a "new" Lancer 1800 GTX (A175X) Prototype. 
Why "GTX" instead of "GSR"?...
| Wiki wrote: | Gran Turismo defined:
A "Grand Tourer" (Italian: Gran Turismo) (GT) is a high-performance luxury automobile designed for long-distance driving.
The most common format is a two-door coupé with either a two-seat or a 2+2 arrangement.
The term derives from the Italian phrase “Gran Turismo”, homage to the tradition of the grand tour, used to represent automobiles regarded as Grand Tourers, able to make long-distance, high-speed journeys in both comfort and style. The English translation is grand touring.
Grand Tourers differ from standard two-seat sports cars in typically being engineered as larger and heavier, emphasizing comfort over straight-out performance or spartan accommodations. Historically, most GTs have been front-engined with rear-wheel drive, which creates more space for the cabin than mid-mounted engine layouts. Softer suspensions, greater storage, and more luxurious appointments add to their driving appeal. |
| Sanctifier wrote: | Lancer 1800 GTX: Though the requisite amount of "bling" will be added to cater to fans of the "luxury" market; light weight and superior performance will not be sacrificed on the alter of luxury.
With much improved (lower) steering "lock" and sharper "turn-in", phenominal braking, increased adhesion, quicker acceleration and higher top speed; the performance enthusiast will be more than adequately satisfied.
This is a comfortable cruiser, a "GroceryGetter!"... not a "Road Warrior"... So give me a cutazz on the street... NO BIGGIE!...
With this one I'm more interested in "milage" than in "mph"...but you better be toting some heavy hardware...and feelin' REALLY lucky! 
If you win, I'll introduce you to my Evo 6 RS2 a.s.a.p!  ... STILL NOT ENOUGH?... There's always "The Clone!" 
Link--> ~ Readers' Rides ~ (Page 2)
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 "X": ............ "Experimental" (Prototype)... It will be THE ONLY ONE OF IT'S KIND IN THE WORLD  ... IMHO that's VERY
"GT": .......... Because it'll be quicker and faster (203 bhp) than a Lancer 1800 GSR (158 bhp) or even a 2.0L Lancer Turbo (177 bhp.)
"Comfort": . Noise: It must be QUIET!... Very little Noise, Vibration or Harshness!... I'm totally fed up with noisy, tiring "rides."
........................ FoamSeal and a whole lot of DynaMat, FatMat, Lizard Skin &/or 3M Body Shutz, should solve the problem.
..................... "Ride quality": Starion 2.6 = 1,375 kg./3,032 lb... Lancer Turbo = 1,075 kg/2,370 lb... Lancer GTX = 1,225 kg./2,701 lb. 
......................... Based on OEM Starion front & rear suspension... and with lower gross weight, I expect the ride to be comfortable...
......................... "Firm" (waterbeds are for the bedroom) but still VERY comfortable. No "teeth-rattling" needed here. 
........................ I.C.E: The only "noise" needed is from a fully integrated, 7-9 speaker audio system. "Quality" sound, not quantity! 
........................ Air-conditioning: The above should go nicely with the climate control system from the 4wd 1800 GSR. ... REALLY
"Controls": . It must have a "soft" clutch pedal (for traffic)... i.e. A single-plate, sprung, organic clutch disk.
........................ Low steering lock (=/< 2.6 turns "lock-to-lock.")...
"Economy":. Chiptorque Xede "piggyback" ECU, to optimise "low-rpm" torque (for improved "flexibility".)
........................ NO excessive torque (to break drive-train parts OR needing a "super stiff" EXPENSIVE clutch & flywheel kit.)
........................ NO excessive power (i.e. No poor milage)...
"Reliability": The aim is to "OVER-ENGINEER" the project, using parts from larger models in the range to "build-in" added strength & reliability.
| Sanctifier wrote: | e.g. A lighter 5-speed GSR gearbox and 4-stud diff are available but the parts chosen are from an '89 US Starion 'Widebody' weighing over 3,000 lbs.
Wider gears (stronger "teeth"), Thicker axles, HUGH LSD, 5-stud hubs... in a car weighing 400 lbs LESS...  You get the picture! |
......................... OEM parts will be used almost exclusively.
......................... If "bought-out" parts are needed, 3rd party OEM parts will be substituted when necessary.
| Sanctifier wrote: | Wherever possible, the components used will be "Heavy Duty" OEM parts to achieve the following goals:
TOTAL RELIABILITY... Ease (and infrequency) of Service & Maintenance Schedules... and Consistent "long-term" Replacement Parts supplies...
With "lightly stressed", heavy-duty parts and "moderate" performance targets, GroceryGetter hopes to be that "RARITY" in the "tuning world"...
A high-performance "daily driver" that actually "drives" on the street more than it "sits" in the workshop...
A driver's car that's truly "User friendly"... "Brilliant" to drive... "CHEAP TO OPERATE"... and FUN TO MAINTAIN! |
"Safety": .... With Brembo calipers (front & rear) off an Evo 8...
........................ With more responsive, precise Power "Rack & Pinion" Steering...
........................ With 225/50x16" tyres on 16"x8" Starion Rims... instead of 185/65x14" tyres...
........................ With a FoamSeal "roll-cage" (see pic.) = stiffer chassis = better handling AND better occupant protection.
| Sanctifier wrote: | | N.B. - There were no "Air-bags" in 1983, so whatever I do to improve occupant safety is Win!... WIN! |
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Why bother to do it?... | Sanctifier wrote: | IMHO the standard Lancer 1800 GSR is NOT ideal for quick, consistent driving.
When you add these issues...
Imprecise, lurid throttle oversteer...
Terminal understeer "at and beyond the limit" of tyre adhesion.
Constant brake fade...
Sloppy steering and "Turn-in" (with 3.xx turns lock-to-lock)
... the initial grin starts to fade.  |
BTW I have owned/driven FOUR Lancer EXs to date... | Sanctifier wrote: | 1 x N/A Lancer 1.4 EX (Normally Aspirated.)
1 x N/A Lancer 2.0L EX (G63B + 5-speed.)
2 x Lancer 1800 GSR Turbo saloons... 1 with LSD and 1 without LSD. |
... so while I'm no Makinen, my opinion on "Lancer handling" is formed from long-term use, driving different configurations of the same basic platform.
The main goals for GroceryGetter are to solve the steering, handling, and braking issues for more consistent handling and faster lap-times...
and what the hell... I'm doing it simply because NO ONE ELSE HAS EVER DONE IT BEFORE... ANYWHERE!
| Sanctifier wrote: | Lancer 1800 GTX Specifications:
Engine .................. 4G93 - 1.8L, DOHC, In-line 4-cylinder Turbo Motor.
.............................. 205 ps [151 kW (203 bhp)] @ 6,000 rpm / 275 Nm (203 lb.-ft.) @ 3000 rpm / Redline = 8,500 rpm.
.............................. Engine Upgrades: The following upgrades are planned for extended engine life and reliability.
.............................. RPW Forged con-rods... ARP Head Studs... ARP Con-rod Bolts.
.............................. RBR Ceramic coated Combustion chambers and Intake & Exhaust Ports.
.............................. The block will be bored/honed with an RBR Torque Plate.
.............................. FYI RBR... (Red Baron Racing)... is US!
Gearbox ............... Starion 5-speed OR Lancer 1800 GSR 5-speed. (both available.)
Drive-train ........... Starion LSD, (3.545:1) with torque-tube and drive-shaft.
Steering ............... Lancer 1800 GSR Power Steering-box swapped for Power "Rack & Pinion." (Model to be decided.)
.............................. 
Front Suspension . Starion: MacPherson struts, coil-springs, telescopic dampers, anti-roll bar, Lower Control Arms.
.............................. .. "Hi-Caster" Top Spring Perches to reduce understeer.
Rear Suspension .. Starion: Independent Rear Suspension - (This is the key to taming the "wild" throttle oversteer.)
.............................. MacPherson struts, coil-springs, telescopic dampers, "Trailing" A-Arms, anti-roll bar.
..............................   
.............................. Before ---------------------------> After!
Brakes .................. Starion Rotors (ft. & rr.) - cross-drilled (unfortunately) & slotted.
.............................. Evolution 8 Calipers - Front: 4-pot Brembo.
.............................. Evolution 8 Calipers - Rear: 2-pot Brembo.
Handbrake............ .. Wilwood or Brembo Handbrake Calipers.
Rims & Tyres ....... Starion 16" x 8" ET+18 / PCD xxx / 5-stud... Tyres: - 225/50 x 16"
"Bling!": ............... Power "Slide &/or Tilt" Sun-roof - ex-4WD Lancer 1800 GSR (CM5A)
.............................. Power Windows - ex-4WD Lancer 1800 GSR (CM5A) |
Except for one "demo" unit, Starions were not sold here; so parts are unavailable.
All Starion parts (including the rear floor-pan) were sourced from a seller in California, via eBay... 
The crate is in Miami as we speak... EDIT: - On-board: Scheduled to arrive on 11-05-12... ARRIVED!..
Why not a 4G63?... | Sanctifier wrote: | Because the 4G93 is FREE! (ex-4wd Lancer 1800 GSR.)
Because the "4G63-into-box Lancer" swap has been "beaten to death" for nearly 25 YEARS!
Because IMHO the turbo on the 4G93 (Gen. 2) is finally on the correct side of the engine-bay... (just like the Gen. 2 4G63.)
. ie away from the hydraulic systems (brake master & clutch cylinders) to reduce "heat soak" and the risk of "brake fade."
Because I already have TWO Evo 6s with 4G63s. One for the street, the 2nd for AutoX/Track... I don't want a 3rd gas-guzzler!
Because a 4G93T will only need to "fill-up" at the pump ONCE A WEEK... maybe twice occasionally.
. A stock Evo usually has to "fill-up" TWO or THREE times a week!... MINIMUM!
. With more fuel price increases coming sooner rather than later , "low running cost" is VERY important to me!
Because a "stock" 4G93 will still give me 130+ mph... 0-60 mph in +/- 6.5 sec.... and hopefully, 35+ m.p.g. too.
Because a 4G93 revs to 8,500 rpm but still remains a lightly stressed, low boost (10 psi), RELIABLE engine, with GREAT milage.
Because T&T's "people" population = +/- 1.3 million... and it's "car" population = 700,000+ (05/12 Transport Commissioner.)
. With few import restrictions, sooner or later the M.o.T will put sanctions on daily usage... engine size... OR BOTH
. If that happens, I prefer an 1800 cc "Daily Driver" to reduce possible punitive taxes.
. If they introduce a "Road Tax" on fuel again; I definitely want an economical 1800 cc car.
Because... "Damn sure better than cocksure"
EDIT: - 2-10-2012: New price for "Premium Unleaded" = $5.75 / litre... up from $4.00 / litre (+ 44%)... I WAS RIGHT!... and more increases are ahead this year! |
Up next... 1800 GSR (A175A) mounted on rotisserie for I.R.S. installation (AFTER the A172A "parts" sale.)
Then this lot...
| Sanctifier wrote: | RESTORATION & UPGRADE SCHEDULE:
1st Build: Trial installation...
Install I.R.S.
Install engine, drive-train, suspension, brakes, wiring harness & "electronics".
Troubleshoot EVERYTHING!... and Test drive.
Remove ALL components and "strip" shell.
Media Blasting: (Baking Soda & Black Diamond), "Spot/Stitch-welding" (MIG), Rustproofing duties...
Then the actual (long, boring) Bodywork... FoamSeal... Seam sealing... Undersealing & Paint job can begin...
Final Assembly!
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Stay tuned!...
_________________
Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick! 
Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue Mar 24, 2015 8:09 am; edited 138 times in total |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Mon May 21, 2012 5:53 pm Post subject: |
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| Sanctifier wrote: | | "ONE OF A KIND!" with (hopefully) better steering, handling & brakes than a RalliArt Gp. B Lancer. |
What more can I ask for in a "Daily Driver"? This is going to be more satisfying than the "real" Evo 6 RS2 project... By far!...
Only "The Clone" (Evo 6 TME RS with ACD) will be as much of a challenge!
| Sanctifier wrote: | | SAMPLE below: with front Starion 7Jx16" rims all round... in metalic silver/grey with black moulding. |
My 
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Sat Dec 05, 2015 9:56 am; edited 6 times in total |
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Sanctifier
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Mon May 21, 2012 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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| Rooki 2nr in another Forum wrote: | | why not do like the other box lancer fellas & cut out the chassis number & weld it above the shock tower of the donor car |
FYI these are the current Regulations from the Transport Commissioner regarding this issue.
Check the date...
As I said, the Police & Licensing Office know... and they are already hunting for bogus cars.
| Sanctifier wrote: | Not Me!... I can't afford that! I'll buy a mint bodyshell... cut it up!... and restore my ol' car properly without screwing around with the firewall, chassis number or anything else that will put the legal Registration at risk.
Yup it will take MUCH longer before I get to drive it again... but then I get to keep my restored ol' car.
IMHO that's the ONLY guaranteed Win, WIN! option for 2nrs who want to restore their vintage iron. |
Link--> "Bogus" Car Registration - Is it really worth it?
Proverb: "A word to the wise is sufficient!"... | Sanctifier wrote: |  While you're restoring your vintage ride the legal way (during the actual "build")... it's a VERY good idea to prepare a hardcopy "BUILD" MANUAL (incl. scans of Invoices, spreadsheets etc.)
... and then post the "build" highlights on the internet... (use pix & "embedded" YouTube video) on "Car Forums"... "YouTube"... "Facebook"... "Twitter"... wherever!
You now have concrete evidence (that can be used in Court if req'd) TO PROVE that your ride was restored legally!
And to avoid some officious "peewat" from making unnecessary trouble if you're in a Police road block...
. . . Keep a"Certified Copy" in your glovebox/console.
Being able to verify the Chassis Number may prevent an "issue" in the first place.  |
| Sanctifier wrote: | EDIT: 10-03-15 Update - Rechecked with current Transport Commissioner this morning.
Nope!... A 'CLO' is no longer legal. I'll have to do this the slow, hard way I'm afraid.
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My $0.02¢
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:20 pm; edited 11 times in total |
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MG Man
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| Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 11:26 am Post subject: |
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the world watches with bated breath..........well me anyway 
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I know it's so, for I told me so |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the kind words MG.
with bated breath... Oh, Oh! I better not screw up on this one!
Just remember MG... *Start up - Jan 2013*... and it'll take at least 36-42 months... with luck (& $$$.) 
| Sanctifier wrote: | This isn't GroceryGetter but these sample pix will give you a rough idea about the kind of DIY bodywork involved:
ADD---> Steam cleaning, Media blasting, Electrolysis, Phosphate treatment and FoamSeal to remove ALL rust and delay
future corrosion for as many years (decades) as possible because I REALLY don't want to have to do this again! |
left - "Before"......... right - "After."
 
 
 
| Sanctifier wrote: | In addition to the body work, the mounting points (and "gusseting" req'd) for the independant rear suspension
also have to be installed in order to get to this point... |
 
| Sanctifier wrote: | Then on to converting a transverse 4G93 for use with an in-line 5-speed box... and installing it!...
(Drive-line Phasing for accurate Engine Mount fabrication and reduced vibrations...
Oil-pan: "front-to-rear" sump swap?... Thermostat: relocate outlet "rear-to-front"... Custom downpipe & Exhaust...
Custom gear-box Bell-housing/Adapter plate... Hybrid wiring harness etc.)
Next up: "Custom" front suspension... and front & rear adapter plates for Brembo calipers...
All of the above (& more) req'd in the "1st build" to "Test Drive" the car in order to troubleshoot everything!...
Strip everything for the final Underseal... FoamSeal... and Paint job...
Then reassemble! |
The 1st Build (Bodywork & Mechanicals) will be the most challenging (and longest) stages...
The final Prep & Paint... and the Reassembly stages will be the most boring...
Should be "interesting!"
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue Aug 07, 2012 12:37 pm; edited 4 times in total |
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Conrad
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| Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 1:01 am Post subject: |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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I'm going to try an additional "Rust Proofing" method too..
Both cars are almost 30 YEARS OLD! To prevent new corrosion for as long as possible, even the "new" shell needs
a full rotisserie restoration to stop future rust.
The only ways to get between the spot-welded seams & panels... and inside the chassis rails to stop rust are...
(1) E-coating: (Not available locally)...
(2) Electrolysis: (I'm going to try this!)...and
(3) Weld/Bonding: (I'll be doing this too!)
| Sanctifier wrote: | "Examples"...
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Dissecting the GSR's shell like that will also give me the chance to Weld/Bond ALL the panels when fixing them into place...
(ie. Actually "rust-proof" BETWEEN the seams!... Exactly where rust starts in the first place!)
WELD/BONDING... "Adhesive Panel Bonding" is actually stronger than OEM spot-welding...
Doing BOTH is even better...
| Sanctifier wrote: | After that I intend to do this as well...
Before the paint job, I'll "stitch-weld" the entire shell...
Media Blast: Chassis - Black Diamond... Body panels - Baking Soda.
Fill ALL the chassis rails, boxed panels, etc. with FoamSeal (2lb. & 8lb.)...
Apply Seam Sealer, etc.
Then Body Prep & Paint. |
Doing all that will give me---> Stiffer chassis = Better handling... Quicker "Turn-in"... and Smoother Ride.
Also---> FoamSeal = No air pockets = No Moisture = NO RUST!... the body-shell should last for YEARS!
It also reduces "Noise, Vibration & Harshness" issues too, giving me a quiet, comfortable ride.
That should keep the restored GSR bodyshell going for another 30 years!
My $0.02¢
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
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cutthroatInt
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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Subscribed sanctifier...
good luck wit the project.
how far did you reach with the IRS install? |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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^ ^ ^ Thanks for the kind words cutthroat. Start-up for GroceryGetter = 01/2013...
I have to get my Evo 6 maintenance finished first and back on the road by December. ($$$ and Time!)
Right now, I'm trying to buy a used Car-O-liner Measuring System from a seller in the US...
 
 
Also if I'm lucky in getting frame data (hunting right now); I'll be able to get ZERO alignment errors with the Starion rear floor-pan installation.
Used together with the rotisserie (see above) and frame machine (coming soon); it'll be like using the original factory jigs for both models.
The rear floorpan, "A" pillars/Cowl area and Rear parcel Shelf/Inner Wheel-house areas are the hardest parts of the job.
Once that's done, the IRS is a straight bolt-in job since all the bits (and floor) came from the 'California' Starion (above.)
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
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cutthroatInt
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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i still hav the designs of the rotiserrie u mailed me yrs ago.
but havnt gotten around to making it yet.
may do so in the near future as my lil projek is gettin on the way.
where u based? wanna come check out some of ur work.. esp the rotis build. |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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^ ^ ^ I'm in Petit Valley... call Wade at 684-4552.
I had to draw the line somewhere. With three projects lined up and each one getting more and more detailed, it wasn't practical to try to build all the jigs and tools that I needed. I ended up buying a Whirly Jig rotisserie a while ago.
User friendly... Easy to store... Even more important, if you 'dissect' the shell as much as I plan to... or do any quarter panel work, then "Chassis Droop" becomes a serious issue. You MUST support the shell properly to avoid future suspension alignment problems...
AFAIK this is the only rotisserie available with this option (above.) It costs a lot of $$$ but it gets the job done.
It would take a novice like me MONTHS to build one exactly like this. That's why I bought it.
Using the Car-O-Mech measuring system (if I get it) with this will be the icing on the cake.
My $0.02¢
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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UPDATE: Used Car-O-Mech purchase:
1st attempt (Texas - $800 + $200 Crating) - This buy (5-06-12) fell through (parts missing from unit)...
2nd attempt (Illinois - $900 + $50 Crating) - (27-06-12) Waiting for feedback on this refurbished, powder coated unit in a few days...
Nope, unfortunately the frame machine isn't included @ that price ... but the Storage Case is!
 
Added 2 x pairs of Unibody Pinch-weld Clamps this week to the ToyRoom's arsenal in preperation for the "build."
  ......... 
The normal way to mount the bodyshell is to bolt on a number of "uni-body" brackets; which are bolted to the rotisserie's support arms.
Expensive to buy/Time consuming to make... and NOT very efficient IMHO.
Instead, I'll fabricate a simple jig (secondary chassis) to mount the body-shell to the rotisserie...
   
IMHO this is the simplest/strongest way to mount uni-body cars in a rotisserie.
No special brackets/adaptors needed. No hanging the shell directly off the rotisserie without adequate (any?) chassis support.
Both jigs bolt directly to the rotisserie... and the bodyshell is supported by the jigs.
"Pinch-weld Chassis Jig" supports Uni-body + "Whirly Jig Upper Brace" (previous post) eliminates "sag" = NO "Chassis Droop"... PERIOD!
"Pinch-weld supports" also serve as a "Car-dolly" to make the bodyshell mobile in my very small ToyRoom. ...
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue May 07, 2013 5:04 pm; edited 5 times in total |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:39 pm Post subject: |
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EQUIPMENT UPDATE: I scored this two days ago... EDIT: 19/07/12 - It's in Miami... To arrive on 23-07-12... IT'S HERE!.. and in FANTASTIC condition for a used unit!
The Car-O-Mech Measuring System will eliminate any rear suspension misalignment issues and should solve a lot of other headaches as well.
I also got another "chassis-mounting" idea from the DriftWorks build of a Volvo 245 GT-D...
  
So now I'm also looking for the following:
1) A complete set of old Car-O-Liner FRAME DATA MANUALS... or an "expired" Car-O-Soft DVD (with KEY) if available.
2) Car-O-Liner's M900 Upper Body Measuring System...
  
| Quote: | | M910 Basic Upper Body System + M920 Lateral Arm kit + M930 Monopod Arm for symmetrical checking. |
3) An older Car-O-Liner Mark 3 / Mark 4 Bench (frame machine)...
 | Quote: | With 1 (or 2) Drawer-Aligner(s)... Pulling Attachments... 3rd pair Pinch-weld Clamps...
Pull-down Attachment... High-lift Jack Frame Brackets... etc. |
The Car-O-liner, Car-O-Mech and M900 will give me the accuracy needed for the build... and the rotisserie will speed up disassembling the "donor" car.
Keeping my fingers crossed...
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue May 07, 2013 5:06 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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MG Man
Zorce Klingon Warrior
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 2683
Location: usually on the back page
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| Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 9:58 am Post subject: |
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awesome toys!
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I know it's so, for I told me so |
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