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Sanctifier
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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Location: Good question!
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 Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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| Cedia 2nr wrote: | ...i'm putting in a 4g93t gdi or 4g93t gsr if i cud find it in my cedia lancer...
i wanna know what upgrades i will need for this to be possible?
do i need injectors, axels, i/c and piping, fuel pump, management? reason i'm asking its becuz i'm leavin the engine stock so i dont know if i need to upgrade anything.
can u point me in the right direction or refer a thread based on 4g93t conversions? any help would be gr8ly appreciated bro. Thank you and looking 4ward for a reply. |
Hi Cedia 2nr. FYI, I know VERY little about CS3 and newer models. More accurate info may be available off Mitsubishi Lancer Register, etc.
To start with...a 4G93T GDi swap and a 4G93T swap are completely different animals. The GDi version (138 bhp) has zero support in the aftermarket. So use all stock parts from a 'front cut' and STOP THERE!
For the 4G93T a few aftermarket parts are available but they are expensive... check RPW in Australia... and Co-OrdSport or Xtreme Motors in UK.
IMHO upgrade con-rods (forged) if you want and leave everything else STOCK. Add upgraded in-tank Walbro fuel pump and that's it. IMHO, 205-210 bhp (stock 4G93T) is perfect for a fwd CS3. You don't need any more than that.
what CS3A upgrades... Why worry with upgrades for a 4G93T GDi? Just buy a "front half" from a suitable model and use everything, including brakes, master cylinder etc.
If you must upgrade, then focus on better brakes, struts & rear shocks and rims & tyres.
For a 4G93T swap, you MUST upgrade brakes. Look for Evo 4 front calipers & master cylinder.
You may have to get an adapter made for the upright/hub (not sure) but the better stopping power will be worth the trouble. BTW I had a 4wd GSR... you will need better brakes. Even OEM GSR brakes were a waste of time... So use Evo 4 front calipers and master cylinder, at least.
My $0.02¢
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1794
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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| 2nr K wrote: | ...a guy... bought an evo... it had a lot or rusting... where the diff bolts to the chassis it looked like its cracking like if it is rotting and now starting to show signs of breakage... a couple fellas who said... just unbolting the part there and putting a steel plate between it and welding it to the chassis.
what you thing we can do to correct that problem?? |
Funny you should ask. I read a thread on MLR recently about that identical problem.
That member did a "shell swap." Unfortunately we don't have that option locally.
Link--> Potential Evo buyers beware of rust.
I don't advise doing all of the following... but this is how I am going to 'prep' my chassis during my Project Solodex Evo 6 rebuild next year... Just pick the ones that are useful in your case.
. Dissasembly: Completely gut the shell (doors, front fenders & both windscreens too) and mount it in a rotisserie, after installing door braces & cross-support bars.
Add all chassis-bars (front & rear strut bars... "stripped" front cross-member, drive-shaft cross-member, rear diff member etc.) first, to avoid distortion when welding.
. Chassis Cleaning: Pressure blast body panels with Washing Soda...
Blast the chassis-rails, wheel-arches & floors with more aggressive blast media (Aluminum Oxide?)
. Rust-proofing "A": Treat chassis with "Wonder" or similar.
. Chassis-stiffening "A": Stitch-weld entire shell using MIG (with Argon gas-shielding.)
. Chassis-stiffening "B": Weld chassis reinforcement gussets... Front Shock Towers... etc.
| Sanctifier wrote: | Now is a good time to repair/reinforce the damaged rear chassis area.
Mig weld all cracks closed (using Argon shielding) using stitch-welds only to avoid distortion.
Use Terocore (below) as added reinforcement if possible.
Try to use a similar gauge as the original section... cut holes (cup-saw) in panel surface and stitch-weld in place. |
. Chassis-stiffening "C": Inject FoamSeal or Terocore Urethane Foam into ALL chassis box-sections...
| Sanctifier wrote: | | As a general rule, use 2 lb. density foam in most longitudinal sections... Chassis rails... Rocker panels etc. and higher density (8 lb.?) foam in most vertical sections... A-pillar... B-pillar... C-pillar... etc. |
BTW Expanding Urethane Foam is ideal to prevent future rust by filling all voids to keep out moisture.
Link--> The Truth: ~ About Rollcages & Racing Harnesses - Page 2.
. Body Preperation & Paint: Prep... Prime... and Paint the shell.
. Rust-proofing "B": Spray all appropriate areas of the chassis with 3M Body Schutz. It's expensive... but it's the best rust-proofing compound that I have used.
My $0.05¢ 
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