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How To "Evolutionize" your Lancer!
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luvnish
Rebel Speeder


Joined: 19 Jun 2008
Posts: 84

PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay thanks.

Apparently the housing design and the thermo changed on the 6 onwards, so the 4 and 5 are the same.
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luvnish
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Sanct,

Can a CM5A GSR diff bolt up to the back of an Evo5? Also will the front transfer case bolt on as well?

AYC light is flashing along with ABS light and I can feel and hear a grinding in the back. :S
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 6:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

luvnish wrote:
Hey Sanct,
Can a CM5A GSR diff bolt up to the back of an Evo5? Also will the front transfer case bolt on as well?

AYC light is flashing along with ABS light and I can feel and hear a grinding in the back. :S

Hi luvnish... Can a CM5A GSR diff bolt up to the back of an Evo5?... This is from Page 7 of this thread...
Sanctifier wrote:
nipe wrote:
...does the gsr diff bolt on to rear evo subframe

1.8 GSR/E3/E4 share the same diff housing and helical LSD. Ratios may differ.
GSR diff support member is spot-welded, pressed steel. E3 is unknown.
E4 diff support member is steel. E6 RS member is alloy. E4 and E6 don't look interchangeable.


Also I don't know if (CM5A) GSR/E4 diff housing bolts to E5/E6 diff support arm.

Short answer: Yup...BUT... you may have to use the CM5A GSR's diff support member too.

Also, I'm not sure if the bolt-spacing of the two diff support arms are the same.
If not, then you'll have to use the GSR's diff support arm as well.

Almost forgot... if using the GSR's transfer case AND diff in the E5, you may/may not need the GSR's drive-shaft as well...
(front yoke splines going into transfer-case may/may not differ)... half-shafts/axles (and rims) may be issues too.

will the front transfer case bolt on as well?... GSR's transfer case should be a "bolt-in" job.

I can feel and hear a grinding in the back... and now you know the 2nd reason why I hate AYCs. IMHO the 1st is poor handling issues. Rolling Eyes
IMHO this is the 1st issue... AYC is DIRTY. The AYC plates are rubbing the dirt between each other...that's your noise.
Mitsubishi AYC Fluid needs changing NOW, before wear does even MORE damage.

Before you swap in GSR's rear LSD, try this on E5's AYC first...DRAIN...FLUSH a couple times at least (with extra AYC Fluid)...REFILL...BLEED AYC Exclamation

From what I hear, this last step is usually a B!TCH Exclamation ... Rolling Eyes
It's usually MUCH easier to get the local Dealer to do it with their electronic MUT-II/III Tester.
If unavailable, there is a way to do it MANUALLY, it just takes some time...and patience.
Sanctifier wrote:
OEM "How-To" Guide - Active Yaw Control Differential Maintenance
..........

..........

Their $0.02¢... Wink Here's the post I did about it...
Link--> Active Yaw Control Maintenance - "How-To" Guide.

My $0.02¢... Laughing
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luvnish
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very informative, thanks a lot Sanct.


Gonna see if I can get some gear oil and ATF and try to work on the Diff and AYC.

Apparently Evoscan can bleed AYC, but the manual way doesn't look too hard either from what i see in the service manual.

What weight Gear oil should I use? OEM is SAE 90 so I should be fine with 75W-90 or 85W-90 I think.

I need a pump of some sort to refill the diff at filler hole, or is there another way?
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ ^ ^ Thanks luvnish. I would follow OEM gear oil specs. to the letter.
Details on OEM Brand and recommended "weight" in the link.

Come to think about it, you can now get it from the US (eBay?)... US model Evo X has Super-AYC. Idea

Let us know how it goes.
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luvnish
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well Sanct, I have diagnosed the problem.

When I put on the new radiator, I flushed the system of all calcium deposits and turned the heater on high so the flush could work through the entire system. Also, having the heater on, the radiator cap can stay off even when the car is at operating temp, allowing the coolant to work out air traps, etc.

BIG MISTAKE!

The heater was probably not turned on for years and something inside it was rotten! Resulting in coolant spilling everywhere and soaking the carpet! I realized that the AYC computer is right under the heater and got a wash of coolant as well, sure enough I remove the computer and its full of coolant residue on the board causing it to malfunction. I have since cleaned the board and reinstalled, cleaned up all the coolant and washed the floor of the car, removed the carpet and scrubbed and washed. After reinstalling the AYC computer, the CEL, ABS, and AYC lights stopped flashing on the dash, a great sign! I will be able to tell for sure if the computer is in good working order when I give the car a hard drive around some corners and see if the AYC is acting normal.

I also blocked off the heater completely, I looped the water port from the head to the water pipe, and capped off the nipples on the firewall after blowing out the residual coolant inside there.

Unfortunately, the car is still stripped to metal in the interior so I can't take it for a drive until I put back the carpet and seats, and since it's all undone I'll route the wiring and hose for the Meth Kit one time.

I hope the computer is fine and that nothing short circuited in there, in a few days I'll know. Oh, and I bought all the gear oil and stuff for the fluid change so I'm still going to go ahead and service those parts.

Thanks for your help.
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luvnish
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bolted in driver seat and took the car for a spin. Everything seems to be working, no noise from diff/ayc. Surprised
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 4:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good news... keep your fingers crossed.
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Gaurav
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys,

Was going evolutionize my lancer till i decided to keep the 4G93 platform, decision was based on overall costs and also the fact that i recently acquired a manual tranny for the 4G93.

Luvnish knows all bout my car, we been working on it together for some time now. Just wanted to share my plans and get some feedback.

Car already has
-2.5" exhaust turbo back
-2.5" intercooler piping with evo 5 FMIC
-Evo 9 fuel pump
-Mivec throttle body

Upcoming mods
-Manual swap
-Evo 8 turbo
-Evo 5 fuel injectors with resistor box to compensate for change in injector impedance
-Greddy emanage blue

With just the exhaust and 12psi the car ran 14.5sec

Hoping for low 13s at an upcoming drag meet.

Would love to get some feedback on the setup and if you know of any CM5A GSRs with a similar setup.
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the Forum Gaurav. Nice to hear from another CM5A owner.
Not too many left around here. Mine is in pieces in the middle of a stalled upgrade... (Waiting on the ToyRoom.)

IMHO with all that extra bite from your E8 turbo, maybe some forged con-rods from RPW will be a BIG help.

BTW can the CM5A gearbox handle the extra torque?
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:41 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Gaurav
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thing is i was unable to find anyone who has gone this way with the cm5a, the older GSR seems to handle the td05 so im hoping it can. i should have mentioned that i plan on forging out the engine soon. Again im hoping it can handle the TD05 for now.

I think the only source for help on the GSR left is evocoupe, going to ask those guys their opinion as well.
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ ^ ^ That sounds like a great upgrade... but why not a 4G63 swap instead?
Post any 4G93/4wd GSR tuning info here in a new thread, please.

Thinking about using my 4G93, "in-line" in my rwd Lancer 1800 GSR.
Leaving it basically stock (maybe uprated con-rods.) 205 bhp in a rwd GSR should be enough for
a "GroceryGetter." Milage will be important for that one. Not too sure about gearbox setup yet, though.

BTW how about some pix and info on your car?
Post in "Readers' Rides" please. Thanks.
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Gaurav
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update, decided to go with a 4G63, got a good deal on what was advertised on ebay as a evo 5 motor, however i have a feeling the buyer wasnt being honest cause the ecu def looked like a evo4 ecu, basically sold my motor and have nothing to put in there yet Confused

When i do find a motor ill do a write up on the entire build.

BTW i ran the car with the 93 motor over the weekend at a drag event and got a 13.8sec pass Very Happy stock motor and turbo.
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gaurav wrote:
...basically sold my motor and have nothing to put in there yet Confused

When i do find a motor ill do a write up on the entire build...

Sold your 4G93? Good luck on the 4G63 buy.

I kept my 4G93T as a spare for the Evo & E6 'Clone'... although I'm thinking of using it in rwd Lancer GSR
...if an adapter plate can work with OEM rwd 5-speed.
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This "PM" came fron another forum...

Fast2nr wrote:
Post on zorce. it was very comprehensive, but i did not understand the links to the cs to 4wd conversion. it sent me to a page with multiple ads.

anyways, lemme get to the point. I'm interested in knowing how to convert a CS2a to an evo 5. i won't be buying a front cut, but i will more than likely get an entire car, unregistered. what i want to know, is, will the rear banjo bolt up? is the wheel base longer/shorter? will there be issues with length of driveshaft? what about position of the transmission? will that matter?
would the dashboard from the evo 5 fit in the CS?

any help would be much appreciated. Cool
thanks!

Glad you liked the thread... The link to "Lancer fwd & LHD-to-4wd & RHD conversion" has been discontinued for over a year and I can't find a new link so far. Here is an alternative site to a "Lancer 4-Wheel Drive V6 Conversion"... Link--> Mitsubishi Lancer V6 Coupe. Read it and also... Link--> Evo VII Project Proposal.

After, check "Wikipedia" and "Mitsubishi Lancer Register" for "dimensions"... wheelbase / front track / rear track / length / width etc. etc. There ARE differences! Here's OEM Specs on "Carisma-shell" Evo 6 RS/RS2... E5 is almost identical.

Link--> ~ Readers' Rides ~

Then you'll see why a "Cedia" CS2a-to-"Carisma" Evo 5/6 swap is possible...but VERY impractical.
Sanctifier wrote:
convert a CS2a to an evo 5... BAD IDEA!

i won't be buying a front cut, but i will more than likely get an entire car, unregistered...
Decide which you want (E5-6 or E7-9) and buy the relevant base model... I still would recommend a "base" 4WD model... or better yet just buy an older Evo!

will the rear banjo bolt up?... Yup...but the crossmember & diff carrier are model specific AFAIK. See "posts" above.

is the wheel base longer/shorter?... E7-9 is longer & slightly wider.

will there be issues with length of driveshaft?... E7-9 is longer AFAIK.

what about position of the transmission? will that matter?... Engine mounts AND Transfer-case position are different AFAIK. Yup, it will matter.

would the dashboard from the evo 5 fit in the CS?... Nothing is impossible...but it's highly unlikely without extensive mods.

If you want an E5 that's identical to the real thing, you must use a "Carisma" shell to start with. BTW don't make it impossible for yourself. A FWD-to-4WD conversion is a LOT of work. Better to start with a Lancer (Carisma) 4wd model...(eg. CM5A 1800 GSR.) That's a "bolt-in" job with minimal fabrication...so it's CHEAPER & QUICKER to do.

Likewise, if you want an E7-9 that's identical to the real thing, you must use a "Cedia" shell.

Sanctifier wrote:
Just remember...unless you get a REAL deal on front and rear cuts... or an "unregistered" E5-6...just buy an Evo and refurbish it... It's CHEAPER & QUICKER! Been there...DOING BOTH options! Rolling Eyes

And...DO NOT SWAP PLATES ON AN "UNREGISTERED" EVO. You'll loose your license...Pay BIG fines...Car will be confiscated...and in case of an accident, you will also face PUBLIC LIABILITY and 3rd PARTY DAMAGES as well (since you don't have valid Insurance) Exclamation

My $0.02¢
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