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Sanctifier
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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Location: Good question!
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 Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:26 am Post subject: |
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In spite of the wealth of information available on the net, it seems that it is difficult to accept
the idea of "cleaning the engine first" to avoid contaminating the fresh oil... 
| doubtful 2nr wrote: | | ...i always hav this fear that those engine flush may raise up gunk coated inside the engine and probably do more harm than good... |
...raise up gunk coated inside the engine... But that is EXACTLY what its supposed to do...
Then you DRAIN OUT the old sh!t, not so? Isn't that better than leaving it inside?
do more harm than good...What harm will happen by cleaning your engine before an oil change?
How can it be better to leave the old sh!t inside to contaminate the fresh oil?
| Sanctifier wrote: | Using "Engine Flush" and then "Flushing Oil" (two different products) before adding clean oil
is like washing hands with soap & water AFTER using the toilet and BEFORE eating food. |
Every oil manufacturer... auto manufacturer etc. recommends this.
Why does this seem so hard to accept? It should be a "no-brainer," not so?
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VK-Sportsman
Zorce Jedi Apprentice
Joined: 05 Nov 2005
Posts: 933
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| Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 8:12 pm Post subject: |
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Uncle Sanctifier, good info  ........"thread bookmarked". 
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 7:07 am Post subject: |
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Thanks padna.
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Sanctifier
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 3:38 am Post subject: |
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| Nu 2nr wrote: | hey i was reading your post about oil flushing etc.
i have an almera with qg16 and i use castrol 5w50. the tapits are making a lot of noise and the engine has become louder as time passed by. i have the car 2 years now and its a 2003 model doin 93k. the car was parked up and not moving for about 5 months.
can you give me any advice or good mechanics to go to because i want to do a full service on the car and there are hardly any mechanics i know of where i live... |
Funnily enough I had to rent an Almira for about 6 weeks... don't ask!
The engine was pretty quiet for an 1800. Don't know if it's similar to your QG16 though.
IMHO stick to the grade recommended by Nissan... I assume it's Castrol 5w50.
If it isn't... use only what is recommended... with NO "aftermarket" additives.
| Sanctifier wrote: | Remember... TYPE (mineral or synthetic), GRADE and API Rating are important
... NOT Brand Name as a general rule. |
Tappets usually make noise because they are WORN... or DIRTY & STICKING.
If it's the latter... you need to get a competitent ( ) mechanic to remove... clean and replace.
| Sanctifier wrote: | That's why it's a good idea to use FLUSHING OIL to "flush" (what else!) out crap during EVERY oil change.
Also... use CHEMICAL FLUSH every 2-3 oil changes to remove sludge build-up. |
Unfortunately I don't pay much attention, so I don't know anyone who is acquainted with Nissans.
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 6:54 am Post subject: |
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| 2nr 1 wrote: | | ...i fine that CASTROL is a dirty oil .....it makes slush like that in your engine so if you running that yh might have alot of gunk and yh internals will be stained !!! |
Then that means that Castrol is doing its job, not so? I prefer oil to lift dirt & sludge and keep it in suspension (get "dirty") rather than stay clean by not removing the dirt at all.
| 2nr 2 wrote: | | nope....contact Santifier here on the forums...he's got flushing oil that u can use to "rinse" after an engine flush...there are a few very good threads on this same topic here in Tech....use the search |
| 2nr 3 wrote: | transmission oil... now my understanding of it, is oils shouldn't be mixed, as it changes the properties. (not even between different manufacturers of same spec, 20/50 etc.)
so with that said, and knowing how well transmission fluid "varnishes", as well as leaving the oil i use on a similar surface... what are the long term effects of doing that? |
AFAIK Transmission Fluid is not compatible or miscible (capable of being mixed) with motor oil.
Flushing Oil has a VERY low viscosity and is designed to help lift dirt/sludge etc. off surfaces during an oil change.
| Quote: | Transmission Fluid...................... = $27.00 / litre.
NP "50" Motor Oil........................ = $26.00 / litre.
Flushing Oil = $350.00 / 19 litre pail = $18.42 / litre.
 Do the math... Flushing Oil will give you enough for at least 5-6 oil changes... and that's using plenty!
Also use a good chemical "Engine Flush" (different product) every 2-3 oil changes... Just follow instructions.
Now you choose the most suitable and economical "throw away" cleaner for your engine. |
For those interested, call Mitchell's Service Station at 622-5196... or Wade at 684-4552.
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cheese pie
Pumpum Conqueror
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
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| Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 11:44 pm Post subject: |
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Hear my slight problem, I recently changed a sump pan seal (well got it re sealed) front engine seal and some oil cooler hoses replaced. my car is a A33 Cefiro. now i change the oil every 7 to 10 K km. use Castrol syntec. never thought i would have a problem with sludge but alas the guys at master serv had to charge me extra for cleaing the sump pan and the bottom of the crank case along with the oil pump pick up because it was almost competly clogged with sludge. The removed all from the bottom of the engine but i wanna clean out the rest. after reading this tread and the truth about engine oil (whew what ah long read) im going to try this from sanctifier.
| Quote: |
Quote:
NOTE:
Continue to CLEAN your engine every TWO or THREE oil changes...
ADD a good brand of Engine Flush before draining old oil...
FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS ON THE LABEL!
(I usually run warm engine for 1 minute less than recommended on the label.)
LEAVE OLD FILTER IN PLACE... Drain old oil and Engine Flush mixture... REPLACE sump-plug.
ADD at least 1 gal. "Flushing Oil"... This isn't "Engine Flush."
Flushing Oil can be bought from NP... or me (684-4552 / 622-5196.)
DO NOT START ... UNPLUG SPARK-PLUGS (or disable ignition) FIRST! ...
CRANK the engine TWO or THREE times... (2 seconds each.)
(This is done to purge oil pump of old oil/engine flush mixture...)
REMOVE sump-plug... REMOVE old filter and DRAIN Flushing Oil...
REPLACE sump-plug... REPLACE (good quality) Filter and ADD clean Oil...
Start engine and check for oil leaks around filter etc... You're done!
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will head down on monday to my friendly auto parts place and see what types of flushes they have. i would also see if i may need more than one tin since my car is a 2 liter V6. ill look for that flushing oil also. one question since my car has coil packs can i just pull the ignition fuse and tumble when i add the flushing oil? and how long should i tumble? i dont want to burn the starter or run down my battery. im thinking 3 sets of 10 second tumbles with about 10 to 20 seconds between each set should not do any damage to the starter.
one more thing, should I change the oil after about 1000km and re flush wiht a chemical flush, flushing oil and then go back to the usual 7 to 10 k km ? or should i just flush and start changing my oil at 5k km.
oh and Sanctifier I use synthic oil in my retired grand father grocery getter because i love running her hard on the high way, not hearing ah sound and listening to the sweet sounds of george bension in the backround 
Thanks in advance for all comments  |
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cheese pie
Pumpum Conqueror
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 18
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| Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 11:47 pm Post subject: |
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| btw, its been too long since we drank some cold stag |
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1794
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 3:28 am Post subject: |
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| cheese pie wrote: | ...i change the oil every 7 to 10 K km. use Castrol syntec... it was almost competly clogged with sludge... i wanna clean out the rest.
| Quote: | NOTE: Continue to CLEAN your engine every TWO or THREE oil changes...
ADD a good brand of Engine Flush before draining old oil...
FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS ON THE LABEL!
(I usually run warm engine for 1 minute less than recommended on the label.)
LEAVE OLD FILTER IN PLACE... Drain old oil and Engine Flush mixture... REPLACE sump-plug.
ADD at least 1 gal. "Flushing Oil"... This isn't "Engine Flush."
Flushing Oil can be bought from NP... or me (684-4552 / 622-5196.)
DO NOT START ... UNPLUG SPARK-PLUGS (or disable ignition) FIRST! ...
CRANK the engine TWO or THREE times... (2 seconds each.)
(This is done to purge oil pump of old oil/engine flush mixture...)
REMOVE sump-plug... REMOVE old filter and DRAIN Flushing Oil...
REPLACE sump-plug... REPLACE (good quality) Filter and ADD clean Oil...
Start engine and check for oil leaks around filter etc... You're done! |
...types of flushes... i may need more than one tin since my car is a 2 liter V6.... since my car has coil packs can i just pull the ignition fuse and tumble when i add the flushing oil? and how long should i tumble? i dont want to burn the starter or run down my battery. im thinking 3 sets of 10 second tumbles with about 10 to 20 seconds between each set...
...should I change the oil after about 1000km and re flush ...and go back to 7 to 10 k km? or... flush and start changing ...at 5k km.
... george bension in the backround... |
can i just pull the ignition fuse... IMHO do whatever it takes to disable your ignition safely.
i may need more than one tin... Highly unlikely. 4 cyl. engines normally take 4-5 litres, irrespective of capacity.
Does your 2.0 V6 use so much more than that? BTW... FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS ON THE LABEL!
how long should i tumble?... CRANK the engine TWO or THREE times... (2 seconds each.)
You DON'T want "metal-to-metal contact" by cranking too long with Flushing Oil ONLY in the sump.
That will destroy your bearings... and cause EXCESSIVE wear in most other parts.
In your case it may be wise to skip this step, as your engine has been oil-starved for so long.
| Sanctifier wrote: | IMHO do a "Chemical Flush"... then "Flushing Oil" with OLD filter first... Then use Flushing Oil AGAIN...
Then add oil and new filter. BTW I would use a MINERAL oil first (NP Ultra 20W/50 is good)...
If the oil still gets dirty immediately, it may be wise to do another flush, oil & filter change in a day or two. |
should I change the oil after about 1000km and re flush... etc... See above! If sludge build-up was that bad in the first place, IMHO follow the OEM's recommended oil-change intervals to the letter.
BTW... | Quote: | george benson... It may be time to introduce you to Boney James, Richard Elliot and Eric Darius etc. etc.
IMHO really cool music for adults.
... and you're right... Best listened to with a couple VERY cold Stags. |
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cheese pie
Pumpum Conqueror
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| Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 8:40 am Post subject: |
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| Ok will do. Thanks. |
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Sanctifier
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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| Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:31 am Post subject: |
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| 2nr One wrote: | ...i am swithching from semi synth to full synth...
The semi synth castrol i used to use would get dark brown around the 5000km period so I got concerned, I know that means that the cleaning detergents in the castrol was working.
I want to see how the cleaning detergents in the Mobil 1 full synth will perform after the flush... |
Okay, glad the thread helped... BUT... don't you own a N/A daily driver?
Yet you still chose Mobile 1! WHY  It's so expensive it's obscene!...
If your car is a stock, N/A "daily-driver" you do NOT need a semi or fully-synthetic oil at all... EVER!
| Sanctifier wrote: | | FYI... ALL the experts including AMS / Buschur Racing.. (and IMHO the "best" of all) David Vizard... recommends breaking-in ALL engines with MINERAL oil... not synthetic... |
I only use Mobile 1 in my upgraded Evo 6 ... Castrol Syntech for Mrs. Sanctifier's Subbie Legacy 2.0 Turbo... NP Ultra (mineral) oil for everything else. I'm even tempted to switch to Castrol for the Evo 6 too, as soon as I verify with Mitsubishi Japan. Castrol is 2/3 the price of Mobile 1 
| Sanctifier wrote: | Stick to what your OEM recommends for YOUR model...
Change when RECOMMENDED...
AND CLEAN the engine BEFORE adding fresh oil & filter... |
That's what they advise.
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:38 am Post subject: |
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Here's a question from another place...
| 2nr K wrote: | i have a quick question, when you rebuild a evo engine, and it breaking in, when time for the final oil change, i assume is not a regular drain and full back oil change you doing, but something extra to get out the oil from the oil cooler?
i in the final mileage of breaking in the engine, and is time for the oil change, just want to get some clarification from someone who most likely done this already.
btw, how much quarts of oil would i need? and is the Amsoil 0w-30 (Signature Series) suitable to use. not a track car, just a street car, with some good mods to it |
To begin with... DO NOT "BABY" THE ENGINE DURING THE INITIAL BREAK-IN PERIOD!
Link--> ~ "Break-in" Proceedure for Rebuilt Engines.
something extra to get out the oil from the oil cooler... I wouldn't do any more than drain the engine for a longer period (10-15 minutes, maybe?) The only "extra" things that I can think of is to...
1) Remove the oil-lines to the oil cooler to drain... then re-tighten... or
2) "Pressurize" engine with compressed air (about 5-10 psi?) through oil-filler hole, before draining oil.
| Quote: | | Tap water is at about 15 psi pressure... so using 5-10 psi will do no damage to engine seals etc. |
how much quarts of oil...Read pages #7 and #9 of The Tuners Guide in the link below...
Link--> The Tuners' Guide - Inside Lancer Evolution RS/GSR/MR.
| Sanctifier wrote: | BTW  recommends Mobil 1 for the Evo engine.
IMHO, Castrol's 5W-50 is another cheaper alternative. |
My $0.02¢.
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue Nov 02, 2010 10:15 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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VK-Sportsman
Zorce Jedi Apprentice
Joined: 05 Nov 2005
Posts: 933
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| Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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Excellent site here http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
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Btw, I switched from Castrol GTX 20W-50 to Amsoil 10W-40 on the sunny (ga15de), also got the Purolator PureOne oil filter. I'm really looking for a longer oil change interval with the synthetic oil. With the GTX I used to stick to a 3000km OCI
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:09 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the info, Sportsman.
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 6:11 am Post subject: |
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Why do so many novices (and all of us are novices IMHO) and vendors feel that their opinions are always so much better than the OEMs that have mechanical and automobile engineers with years of experience on their staff
Sadly this is often the case after reading a couple brochures or posts and getting opinions from a few others who know just as much (or as little) as the person who asked the question in the first place.
And the topic most frequently debated is about recommended oil usage...and almost always without any supporting test data or other impartial empirical evidence...while totally ignoring what the OEM recommended for their engine design.
| 2nr from other place wrote: | | want to use amsoil in my moms car it is a Hyundai matrix... |
Feel free to do so... but it isn't really necessary. It's not a high rpm or turbo engine that operates under extreme conditions. An overpriced synthetic oil might make you feel good about taking extra care of your car...but is just as unnecessary as stitch-welding the chassis and adding $75k rally suspension to your Matrix for street use. Both are great...but do you REALLY need them?
IMHO just stick to the OEM's recommendations. Consistent oil and filter changes, using the recommended grade (not brand name) is what is really important. BTW the new NP grades are pretty good too...cost a lot less...and are ALWAYS available.
My $0.02¢.
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MG Man
Zorce Klingon Warrior
Joined: 19 May 2005
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| Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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good info
I run Castrol full syn in the MINI cuz that's what they recommend, and it's a pretty basic engine anyway..............and as you said, regular oil changes and servicing all the way
The manufacturer recommends 1 year / 20,000km oil change intervals, plus the ECU calculates the oil change date based on driving habits and conditions, and will recalculate the service schedule countdown clock accordingly
I typically change the oil every 6 months regardless
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