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Sanctifier
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 Posted: Fri May 01, 2009 4:53 am Post subject: What will make YOUR car the PERFECT Daily Driver? |
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If you had a "reasonable" budget... What would you do (in order of importance) to make your car the "PERFECT" Daily Driver?
Here's a link to a new thread on what Dave Buschur from Buschur Racing calls ..."My favorite EVO to date."
Link--> BR's Project White, "completed". Lots of information.
| davidbuschur wrote: | ...I bought a 2003 EVO that was a project car that was taken apart brand new and never finished.
The car had 232 actual miles on it. No engine, trans, transfer case and some other small things missing.
Here is what we did to the car and the approximate costs:
BR 2.3 liter Stage 3 shortblock ($3,550)
-JE pistons............................................. -Manley Turbo Tuff rods
-Stock 2.4 liter crank, balanced and polished -BR balance shaft eliminator kit
BR Stage 3 cylinder head ($1625+$60 for inconel upgrade)
-Manley Springs/retainers.......................... -Supertech +.5 mm intake valves
-Supertech +.5mm inconel exhaust valves.... -O-ringed deck
Front cover, oil pump, gasket kits, oil, filter, antifreeze, new oil cooler, head studs, timing belt, timing belt
tensioner, water pump etc. All the things we prefer to replace when doing a full build. ($1250)
Used Jun 272 cams with stock cam gears ($500'ish used value on cams)
Forced Performance Red, ported and coated turbine housing, ($1795+$195 porting/coating)
BR SS 02 housing ($195)............... BR ported and coated exhaust manifold ($195)
BR 3" turboback with SD muffler and Magnaflow ($995)
BR polished SS manifold heat shield ($95)
BR race FMIC ($799)..................... BR lower upper and lower i/c pipes, powder coated wrinkle black ($560)
BR MAF pipe, powder coated wrinkle black ($210)
BR lightweight battery kit ($280)..... Stock ignition system
Stock ECU................................... BR double pumper ($500)
E85 fuel...................................... PTE 1,200 cc injectors ($345)
Exedy triple HD metalic, push style clutch ($3400)
BR ported stock intake manifold ($145)
BR 65 mm throttle body ($300)........ Bushwacker Stage 1 with 4.11 gear set ($1500)
Bushwacker rebuilt transfer case with RS differential ($350 for Stage 1, includes big bolt kit and shims)
Eclipse double DIN head unit with DVD, Nav, AM/FM CD
Volk TE37 white wheels, 18"x8.5"
Apexi S1 coil over suspension ($1400). Suspension Techniques rear sway bar ($199)
...today I made more power than I have ever personally made on a reflashed stock ECU with this car...
The car is being dyno'd on what I am assuming is E85... The car was tuned at 30 psi of peak boost.
The Peak power was 469 whp and the peak torque was 435 ft lbs. Peak torque comes in at about 3800 rpm...
Here is the dyno sheet:
Here's the finished car...
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| Dave Buschur wrote: | "I have to tell you, this car is my favorite EVO to date. It is also extremely quiet, I am running the Magnaflow with the SD muffler in the middle.
...Here is something that really impresses me. With the car being so quiet, the stroker and the Red I can come into a town in 5th gear and
never think about dropping a gear. Tonight I was seeing how low in the RPM I could run the car in 5th gear and it still feel smooth and would
still actually accelerate. 1300 rpm in 5th gear the car is still smooth and will actually accelerate on light throttle opening, perfectly smoothly!
Now THAT is impressive...What a great car. It really makes me think about my RS, it's fast but I'll tell you, other than WOT it is not nearly
as enjoyable as this car to drive.
This may just be the ultimate daily driver/track car." |
His $0.02�
So... the most important things for one of the most famous 2nrs/drag racers in the world are...
| Quote: | | Smooth ride... Flexability... Quiet operation... and Quick acceleration... in that order. |
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick! 
Last edited by Sanctifier on Sat May 02, 2009 3:04 am; edited 7 times in total |
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1794
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Fri May 01, 2009 7:14 am Post subject: |
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IMHO this is what's important to me...
| Sanctifier wrote: | I just read the thread... DAMN! I'd love to run that thing (~EvoRED turbo) on the street with a stroker.
Looking forward to 9sec9's take on tuning for low-end torque and for someone to run it on
an unported 2.3 stroker with "93" pump gas, smaller injectors and Water-Meth injection.  |
Jeezuz!... Talk 'bout "a prophet in his own land!"... right down to the colour too!
I've always wanted to make my Evo 6 TME 'Clone' into the "PERFECT" daily driver by doing the
following: (in order of importance)
| Sanctifier wrote: |  Reduce "Noise"... by using a resonator in place of a "cat" or test pipe.
Reduce "Vibration & Harshness"... by using sound-deadening kits, expanded urethane foam etc.
Focus on Handling without increasing harshness by... Stitch Welding the Chassis... Using Stock/lower spring rates...
Adjustable ride height... Firmer adjustable dampers... NO Pillow-ball Top Mounts... rims 1" wider in front than the rear...
Use lighter rims... ADD Active Centre Diff... Reflash ACD ECU for rear bias... NO Rear AYC!... ADD Adjustable Traction Control!
Focus on Alignment... to reduce dangerous "tram-lining" (following the ruts) and bump-steer on rough roads.
Use an engine spec. that focuses on mid-range WTQ & reasonable MILAGE rather than outright WHP at high RPM.
Install a good quality, multi-speaker Audio system... with the emphasis on clarity rather than on volume. |
| Quote: | | Quiet operation... Smooth ride... Flexability...Quick acceleration... and Reasonable Milage in that order. |
Now why does that sound so familiar?
My $0.02�...
Now what would you do?...
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick! |
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Sanctifier
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Sun May 03, 2009 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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This is a "jump" from the "How To Evolutionize Your Lancer" thread for the purpose of continuity...
| nipe wrote: | Hey guys, long time no see!!! Have been enjoying my car for a while now  Not much progress going on,
but getting there  still searching for options on improving rear suspension. Hey Sanctifier, what could you
advise me to do to improve handling? That is really important for me as the car is daily driver and
I want it to be on the streets like a fish in the water if you know what I mean |
Funny you should ask that. I'm doing a little research on this right now...
| Sanctifier wrote: | I've always said that an Evo is like a "hyper" FWD car on STEROIDS!... and can put you in deep sh!t VERY quickly...
BUT Evos are still MUCH better than Subaru's STi... (steering... brakes... handling...)  |
So bear with me for a minute, please...
| Sanctifier wrote: | IMHO the Pros & Cons of the Evo's 4WD system & Suspension are as follows...
Pros:
Limited wheel-spin on "launch" = QUICKER Acceleration.
~ Less horsepower req'd for the same/better level(s) of performance, than FWD or RWD cars.
Cons:
50:50 Torque Split = UNDERSTEER! ~ Constant... Mind-numbing... Annoying... UNDERSTEER!
~ Put the same torque through each axle... Now ADD Steering Input forces to front wheels too = UNDERSTEER!
The use of (cheaper) McPherson Strut front suspension design = Bump-steer...
~ "Packaging" & Space limitations + Production Cost limitations = Design Compromises.
Wide rims & tyres used to improve adhesion = Tram-lining!...
~ Steering pulls (dangerously) to follow "ruts" on rough roads. |
Maybe the following info will also help...
| Sanctifier wrote: | I've always wanted to turn my Evo 6 TME 'Clone' into the "PERFECT" daily driver, by doing the following:
(in order of importance)
Reduce "Vibration & Harshness"... by using sound-deadening kits, expanded urethane foam, RESONATOR etc.
Focus on Handling without increasing harshness by... Stitch Welding the Chassis... Using Stock/lower spring rates...
Adjustable ride height... Firmer adjustable dampers... NO Pillow-ball Top Mounts... rims 1" wider in front than the rear...
Use lighter rims... ADD Active Centre Diff... Reflash ACD ECU for rear bias... NO Rear AYC!... ADD Adjustable Traction Control!
Focus on Alignment... to reduce dangerous "tram-lining" (following the ruts) and bump-steer on rough roads.
Quiet operation... Smooth ride... Flexability...Quick acceleration... and Reasonable Milage in that order. |
This is a Chart (incomplete) that I'm compiling. It might help for basic handling and set-up issues...
| Sanctifier wrote: |  |
Link--> ~From The Archives ~ Roadholding I_Compilation.
EDIT:
| Sanctifier wrote: | Here are the geometry settings of popular models.
Use the Alignment Table as a starting point... then go from there with the information in the thread.
For example further 'tweeking' information is available at MLR---> Geometry Setup. |
Link--> Mitsubishi alignment settings, and what they really mean!
| Quote: | Why do I want to use Expanded Urethane Foam?... To STIFFEN the chassis, is why! Less Noise & Vibration too!
Stiffer Chassis = QUICKER Spring & Damper reaction = QUICKER "Turn-in" + BETTER HANDLING! |
| Sanctifier wrote: | 
 There's your roll-cage ... with no dangerous intrusive bars at all;
(and no padding needed) reducing the need for door and floor bars
... with the added benefit of being lighter than a cage for improved acceleration ...
(Cheaper and less work.) Have your cake... and eat it too! |
Link--> The Truth: ~ About Rollcages & Racing Harnesses.
IMHO after the "Front Helical LSD"... the 2nd most important upgrade is this!...
Link--> Gruppe-S "Rear-biased" ACD ECU Reflash. | Quote: | Your Evo will behave much more CONSISTENTLY in corners... just like a "good" RWD car!... Much SAFER than before too!
Additional upgrades from the Handling Setup Chart (above), will be the icing on the cake!...
N.B. You'll also need E8-9 Engine ECU to interface with ACD ECU... but now you can reflash that too, for MORE power!  |
BTW suggested "cures" for the BUMPSTEER & TRAM-LINE issues are...
So... IMHO Handling alternatives are as follows:
| Sanctifier on 3-05-2009 wrote: | ~ For "Evo 4-6 GSR" owners.
COMPULSORY: ~ Swap "Open front Diff" for "Front Helical LSD." Use E4-6 RS Transfer case.
(* See "ADVANCED".) This is the MOST important upgrade needed to reduce UNDERSTEER!
BASIC: ~ Follow suggestions in Handling Setup Chart above...
ADVANCED: 1) ~ Swap "Open front Diff" for "Front Helical LSD" using Evo 8-9 Transfer case.
2) ~ ADD complete ACD Pump assy. + ACD ECU from E8-9 (5-speed) MR/GT/RS.
3) ~ Upgrade to Rear-biased ACD ECU Reflash from Gruppe-S ($360 US + Ship & Money back guarantee.)
or ~ Buy the upgraded RalliArt ACD ECU. |
If you can afford it, the ADVANCED option is best. You'll get a Front Helical LSD + Rear-biased ACD... with ALL the Handling benefits!
| Sanctifier on 3-05-2009 wrote: | ~ For "Evo 4-6 RS" owners.
BASIC: ~ Follow suggestions in Handling Setup Chart above...
ADVANCED: 1) ~ Swap "Front Helical LSD" Transfer case from E4-6... to E8-9. You need the ACD!
2) ~ ADD complete ACD Pump assy. + ACD ECU from E8-9 (5-speed) MR/GT/RS.
3) ~ Upgrade to Rear-biased ACD ECU Reflash from Gruppe-S ($360 US + Ship & Money back guarantee.)
or ~ Buy the upgraded RalliArt ACD ECU.
4) ~ ADD "Adjustable Traction Control"... e.g. RaceLogic etc.
IMHO with this setup, lighter (< 275-350 lb) E5-6 RS will outhandle an unlightened E7-9 on similar tyres... NO CONTEST!  |
| Sanctifier on 3-05-2009 wrote: | ~ For "Evo 7-9 GSR/MR/GT/RS" owners.
BASIC: ~ Follow suggestions in Handling Setup Chart above...
ADVANCED: ~ Upgrade to Rear-biased ACD ECU Reflash from Gruppe-S ($360 US + Ship etc. etc.)
or ~ Buy the upgraded RalliArt ACD ECU. |
My $0.02�... Hope it helps... Whew! That was a B!TCH to post!
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Wed May 13, 2009 3:33 am; edited 8 times in total |
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nipe
Looking for the Jedi base
Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 30
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2009 7:12 am Post subject: |
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Hmm a LOT of info to process might leave that for tomorrow, it's too late at the moment, need some
sleep, nice write-up though!!! |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 3:32 am Post subject: |
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Thanks. Let me know what you think about the alternatives... and please add any relevant handling
info that you have.
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Sanctifier
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Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Tue May 05, 2009 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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This should answer the S/AYC, non-S/AYC question.
| Gruppe-S on 5-05-09 wrote: | | It will not Interfere with the AYC at all! our flashes are designed to work with equipped and non equipped cars. |
BTW what do you think about the handling suggestions in the thread?
| Sanctifier wrote: | I wonder if more rear bias in ACD locking will have a mild negative effect on straightline acceleration?
More rear ACD bias = More (rear wheel) stationary wheelspin(?) = Slightly slower "0-60 mph" times(?) |
Comments please.
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VK-Sportsman
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| Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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| Sanctifier wrote: |
Now what would you do?... |
Sanctifier...... the E6 looks excellent. I know of an eight-rs to match it, 
Daily driver I would go with (around 450hp)
-Cosworth 4G63 2.2L stroker
-Cosworth CNC ported Big Valve cylinder head
-Motec plug-in M800 ECU
-Motec MDC controller
-AEM water injection kit
-FP red turbo with 80mm surge port
-Tomei turbo manifold
-Fuel delivery would be higher flow Bosch injectors and fuel pump
(or possibly a Garret GT3071R with Tial SS v-band housing and custom v-band turbo manifold.)
-Custom quiet exhaust (I prefer quiet exhausts on daily drivers)
-AMS upgrade intercooler
-Mitsubishi/Bilstein suspension
-Stock radio
-Remove rear spoiler
-Stock interior
-Defi heads-up-display, Boost gauge and AEM wideband
-Team Dynamics FQ-400 wheels
That's about it.
I may have gone overkill with some parts but that would be my dream car. Based on a CT9A chassis.
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 7:18 pm Post subject: |
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Yup, definately a "dream car" build... but is that on a "reasonable budget" 
A Cosworth 2.2 shortblock & head alone would be more than four times the average "daily driver"
budget. All that will definately give you more than 450 WHP too... More likely 515-525+ WHP.
A well tuned EvoRED upgrade on a forged 2.3 bottom end should give you 450 WHP.
What about reducing understeer for all the extra power?
Maybe a bit more attention necessary on the suspension side of things?
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crazybaldhead
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| Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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Sancti, these days my car is getting a little annoying to drive with tramlining and bump steer. Especially on the highway, it feels dangerous.
I recently (January) changed my ends inner and outer to NEW mitsu parts. It seems to get worse when the tyres wear down a little.
The alignment is perfectly within factory specs. Thoughts?
Remember this is literally a daily driver eh, with occasional crack cocaine (read solodex).
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Silvermike
Rebel Speeder
Joined: 14 Oct 2005
Posts: 81
Location: Chaguanas
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| Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 4:17 pm Post subject: |
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whats the width of the rims/tires u are running right now?
could be ure rear control arm bushings are going. There is a whiteline bump steer kit that may work for ure car.
p.s. awaiting ure call.
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crazybaldhead
Pumpum Conqueror
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| Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 4:53 pm Post subject: |
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Bushings are full polyurethane.
I feel is the tyres. Direzza DZ101. Rims are 8" but the offset is 25, so they kinda far out.
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Silvermike
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Location: Chaguanas
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| Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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+25 on a 8" rim isnt very agressive at all.
Are u on stock suspension? 101s are crap, but i dont know if they would contribute
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crazybaldhead
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| Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 5:20 am Post subject: |
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Stock suspension. ANd yes, although a lot of people say these tyres are great, I have come to realise they are CRAP.
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Silvermike
Rebel Speeder
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Location: Chaguanas
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| Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 7:25 am Post subject: |
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^ well i think u just need to learn to counter steer
this aint a walk in the park Ms. Daisy
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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| crazybaldhead wrote: | Sancti, these days my car is getting a little annoying to drive with tramlining and bump steer.
Especially on the highway, it feels dangerous.
I recently (January) changed my ends inner and outer to NEW mitsu parts.
It seems to get worse when the tyres wear down a little.
The alignment is perfectly within factory specs. Thoughts?
Remember this is literally a daily driver eh, with occasional crack cocaine (read solodex). |
tramlining and bump steer... daily driver... Nagisa Pillow Tie Rod Ends is one alternative.
Silvermike's suggestion is another. Whiteline's rear Bump steer correction kit is cheaper too...
| Whiteline wrote: | KCA388 - Rear bump steer kit is designed to change bump steer characteristics depending on driving conditions.
For racing it is beneficial to reduce the amount of bump steer to give a more positive feel, sharper handling,
reduced rear passive steer, and reduce understeer. |
Link--> Bump steer correction kit.
Just as important, use Whiteline's Alignment Chart with their bushings.
Their $0.02�
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