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luvnish Rebel Speeder
Joined: 19 Jun 2008 Posts: 84
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 10:00 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Sanctifier,
Rims are so light the steering response has gotten much better compared to the smaller 16's which were HEAVY!
Anyway, I hope your projects get underway soon enough, looking forward to update pics. |
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nipe Looking for the Jedi base
Joined: 17 Jun 2008 Posts: 30
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 1:43 am Post subject: |
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Are those 17's? I thought they were 16s!!!!! I cleaned two of my 4 17s going on the car later on....pure sex!!!! |
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luvnish Rebel Speeder
Joined: 19 Jun 2008 Posts: 84
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Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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Old rims were 16's, i.e. VERY HEAVY.
These are 17" Sportmax 003 Forged Lightweight Rims (14 lbs ea.)
Really nice and strong rims, I had them in 15's before and those were between 11-12 lbs ea.
When you put on the 17's please post pics! |
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nipe Looking for the Jedi base
Joined: 17 Jun 2008 Posts: 30
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Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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I have decided not to do anything with the car until I finish my exams, so nothing going to happen to my car until mid november (((. But that means I have heaps of time to prepare everything:) |
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Sanctifier Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
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Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 8:28 am Post subject: |
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Hi guys and Happy New Year.
How are the projects going? Some pix would be nice.
The ToyRoom finally has a coat of paint on it.
Still have wiring and plumbing to finish.... but finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick! |
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Sanctifier Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 10:17 am Post subject: |
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Sanctifier on 28-07-08 wrote: | ... My GSR box needs bearings for sure. I found broken bearing cage when I drained oil.
ONE bearing damaged... so metal chips and filings now everywhere.
Sooo IMHO replace ALL bearings... + new synchromesh rings, shims, seals etc.
Don't need box right away and can't afford it now... BUT I'll need a hydraulic press to do it.
So then I'll have another DIY project to make one in order to rebuild the box.
As though I need something else to do. |
Looks like I may be in luck. I just found an OLD 20-ton hydraulic press... for $500.00 TT
It has a damaged jack and post... but no biggie...
I have two 20-ton truck jacks from dump trucks that I operated in a past life.
The steel, machined pins, bolts & nuts etc. to make one is more than double that price today.
IMHO some sandblasting, epoxy paint and a bit of fabricating should be more than worth it.
Hoping to collect it after Carnival. _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick! |
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luvnish Rebel Speeder
Joined: 19 Jun 2008 Posts: 84
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Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 7:30 pm Post subject: Silver Evo5 |
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Hey guys,
Update:
I got an Evo 5 at the end of the year.
WOW
Came very stock from Japan, No boost control on it so it's running stock boost. Suspension is very firm riding on stock struts/springs. Clutch feels great, probably stock as well. Has an aftermarket downpipe but it seems to be less that 3" in diameter. after the downpipe it's stock resonators and cat-converters going to a very loud fart-can. I must say, I love it As you can probably see that Japanese sticker is still on the upper left-hand corner of the front windshield. Interior is also very clean. Can't remember the exact figure off the top of my head but mileage is around 75,000 KM.
Recent update:
Sometime last week I drove into the gas station and while driving out I left ALL of the coolant from the radiator on the ground. I am so lucky someone yelled at me to stop because I would not have noticed. I switched off immediately so the car never ran without coolant. I suspected it was a rotten or busted lower radiator hose but it was too dark to do anything about it so a buddy of mine towed me home, which was 2 minutes away. Upon further inspection in the day, I discovered nothing wrong with the hose, so I pulled out the radiator, and discovered a hairline crack. Well I am at least fortunate that the engine never got a chance to overheat
I've since ordered a fully aluminum Mishimoto 52mm twin core radiator to replace it, along with silicone high pressure hoses, just to be safe. Those should be coming soon, so for now the car is parked up, sucks!
Anyway, I hope you guys like it.
Oh Sanctifier, I was thinking about buying Mandrel bends so I can do the full exhaust 3", do you know which bends I would need? From what I can see, it looks like a 90* for the downpipe, then it goes fairly straight parallel to the driveshaft, then a 45* to get it going to the left notch in the bumper, then another 45* to get it going straight again. or maybe 2 90*'s would work better. Any advice you can throw my way would be appreciated |
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Sanctifier Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
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Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:37 pm Post subject: |
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Welcome to... THE DARK SIDE! ... Congrats on the E5 luvnish, it looks great.
Is it an E5 GSR (rear AYC) or an RS (rear LSD) model?
Those Grenadian Subies better watch out... Evo Subie
Quote: | BTW I've "gone over" halfway myself...
Mrs. Sanctifier just got a Subaru Legacy GT BP5 Turbo Wagon a week ago. ... Pix soon. |
I'll do some research and try to post exhaust info and pix tomorrow.
BTW looks like you still have your GSR too... Now why does that sound so familiar! _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick! |
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luvnish Rebel Speeder
Joined: 19 Jun 2008 Posts: 84
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Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah it's an E5 GSR Model. Hoping to not experience any problems with the Diff/AYC, as a buddy of mine has changed his rear diff already, he was actually lookin for an RS unit to replace it with, but he ended up getting a TME Diff, I have no idea what the difference would be but the TME one still has AYC, and he was looking to get rid of AYC on a whole.
Since my car is down, that same friend of mine (Yellow E5 GSR) and myself are gonna drive his car onto a ramp so we can get a good look at the piping. He did his exhaust from the turbo-back full 3" utilizing a pipe crusher to bend, depending on the amount of bends i may just buy a few mandrel bends and see how smooth i can get the piping to be. I hate to see crush bends on a 3" pipe the bend goes to nearly 2" . From what he told me over the phone today, it's a bend coming down from the turbo (90*), then it goes completely straight until you have to go around the diff (90*), and then another (90*) to get the piping straight so the muffler can exit from the notch on the passenger side of the car.
We'll see what happens tomorrow. Pics from you would be great, thanks.
Yeah, the GSR is still a part of the family, my brother uses it now as his daily ride, and I've been using his Toyota Sprinter GT to get around.
Stock boost is 1bar?, because that's what I get, stock boost control solenoid everything is still connected. |
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Sanctifier Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
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Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 6:38 am Post subject: |
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^ ^ ^ AFAIK TME AYC is identical to any other Evo GSR AYC unit. Finding an E5-6 RS rear LSD is tough.
I started looking for those pix... and O/S drive C: went down... fortunately all data is on drive D:
Using Mrs. Sanctifier's computer now. Gimme a few days to get my system back up again for the pix. _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick! |
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luvnish Rebel Speeder
Joined: 19 Jun 2008 Posts: 84
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 8:56 pm Post subject: Ports on Exhaust Manifold |
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Hey Sanctifier,
What are those two ports on the exhaust manifold for?
Can I delete that whole system?
What is it's purpose?
USDM Evo's don't have the ports :S |
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luvnish Rebel Speeder
Joined: 19 Jun 2008 Posts: 84
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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Okay so I did a little research.
It seems to be compressed air being released into the manifold via a valve, with the air source coming from the upper intercooler pipe just before the throttle body.
From what I understand it helps keep the turbo spooling between shifts.
I also read that it leans out the exhaust gas for emissions purposes. |
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Sanctifier Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 7:22 am Post subject: Re: Ports on Exhaust Manifold |
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Hi luvnish. Here's info on the Secondary Air System... a.k.a. Anti-Lag System.
It's pretty long so I started a seperate thread on the RalliArt Anti Lag System... (ALS.)
IMHO it was introduced to "homologate" ALS for rallying, using the "clean air" benefits as an excuse.
Link--> Secondary Air System... a.k.a. RalliArt ANTI LAG SYSTEM!
My $0.02� _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:24 am; edited 5 times in total |
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luvnish Rebel Speeder
Joined: 19 Jun 2008 Posts: 84
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:26 am Post subject: |
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Why I asked was because I was thinking of getting my hands on a ported exhaust manifold from a USDM Evo. That would ensure minimal downtime of the car as I could then swap the manifold in as I take the stocker out.
Now I am thinking that I don't want to get rid of the anti-lag, whether it's useful or not.
So that leaves me with finding a JDM manifold locally and doing the porting locally. I guess it shouldn't be hard for any machine shop to do. Just a matter of gasket matching head port side, and the turbo side with a carbide bit, and smoothing/polishing everything afterwards.
USDM evo's have netted fair gains doing this, so it was on my list of things to get done.
What do you think? |
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Sanctifier Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
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Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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Yup "port matching" does improve performance.
Just remember you can always grind off... but it's much harder to reverse the process.
Too large a port will slow down the air/fuel mixture or exhaust gas flow and HURT performance.
Sometimes SMALLER ("D-shaped") ports give you BETTER performance.
Here's some porting info that might surprise you...
His $0.02�
Search evolutionm.net and Mitsubishi Lancer Register for more porting info.
9sec9 on evom.net had an illustrated DIY article on porting the EvoGREEN turbo and O2 Housing that
worked wonders. Not sure if its still there. Do a search.
luvnish wrote: | ...So that leaves me with finding a JDM manifold locally and doing the porting locally. I guess it shouldn't be hard for any machine shop to do. Just a matter of gasket matching head port side, and the turbo side with a carbide bit, and smoothing/polishing everything afterwards.
What do you think? |
Sanctifier wrote: | doing the porting locally... Nope, NOT a good idea!...
I've seen a "so-called" Speed Shop in T&T BALLZ UP a head so bad it had to be scrapped!
BUY from a FOREIGN Speed Shop (Buschur?) with a proven track record... or DO IT YOURSELF
9 out of 10 "Speed Shops" generally don't even know what an Air-Flow Rig is... far less how to
use one to analyse port air-flow for each type of head. So how can they teach an apprentice
how to port your model of head... except by guessing and a lot of "Butcher work!"
for any machine shop to do... Machine Shop owners hire machinists (and some are no damn good!)... not cylinder head specialists. IMHO you'll be better off RESEARCHING... then some more RESEARCHING... then DIY! Just take it slowly.
smoothing/polishing everything... CAREFUL! Glass-smooth exhaust ports may be okay... even ceramic-coating after.
but for intake ports... especially around the valve-throat area, a satin-finish port (slightly "rougher")
will assist in reducing "puddling"... where micro fuel-droplets tend to fall out of suspension and collect on
the port walls... causing irratic variations in air-fuel mixture at various RPM levels... hurting power...
(and also reducing overall milage.) |
My $0.02� _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick! |
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