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Sanctifier Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
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Posted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 2:33 pm Post subject: Mitsubishi alignment settings, and what they really mean! |
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Q: What are the geometry settings of my car?
A: The geometry settings can make a great difference to the handling on Evo�s so it is
important that they are set up correctly. It is worth getting them checked fairly regularly
(at least once a year although Pirelli recommend every 6 months) and obviously when
you have changed any suspension components. Below are the standard factory settings
but note that the factory set the geometry to a tolerance (not shown below).
A wheel alignment specialist will set it more accurately to a specific figure so even a brand
new car off the production line can benefit with a professional wheel alignment set-up.
For an explanation for the terms used in the table below and for details on how to fine tune
the handling characteristics of your car then see
�Can I improve the handling by changing the wheel alignment?�.... below
Q: Can I improve the handling by changing the wheel alignment?
A: Altering the wheel alignment to improve the handling is probably the simplest, most
dramatic improvement you can make to any car for the cost involved.
First though what is wheel alignment and what do all those terms mean?
Toe
Toe describes the angle at which a wheel sits on a horizontal plane relative to the
longitudinal axis of the car. In other words imagine looking vertically down on top of
a wheel mounted on a car, if the front of the wheel is angled inwards more than the
rear of the wheel then it is said to have �toe-in�, if it�s the other way around then the
wheel is said to have �toe-out�. If the wheel is parallel with the longitudinal axis of the car
then it has zero toe. Toe can be measured in degrees but more commonly, it�s
measured as the distance difference between the front of the wheel rim and the rear of
the wheel rim. Total Toe is the overall distance for a pair of wheels whereas
Individual Toe is half the Total Toe and relates to individual wheels.
Toe-in increases lateral stability but can lead to wear on the inside shoulder of the
tyre. Front end toe-in dampens turn in response but improves the self centring action of
the steering while rear toe-in helps to reduce oversteer due to the improvement in
lateral stability.
Toe-out reduces lateral stability and can lead to wear on the outside shoulder of the tyre.
Front end toe-out can improve turn-in response while rear end toe-out encourages
oversteer due to the reduction in lateral stability.
Toe can be altered on the front by adjusting the track-rod ends and on the rear by
adjusting the toe control arms.
Camber Angle
Camber describes the angle at which a wheel sits in a vertical plane.
Imagine looking at the wheels as you stand in front of the car. If the top of the wheel is
angled inwards, towards the car then the wheel has negative camber, similarily if the
top of the wheel is angled out, away from the car then the wheel has positive camber.
If the wheel sits vertically then it has zero camber. Camber is measured in degrees.
The ideal contact patch of the tyre onto the road would logically be with the wheel in the
dead vertical position (zero camber) so why are most performance cars set-up with
negative camber?
To understand why negative camber is good for performance you have to imagine how
a car behaves during a corner.
With a car set-up with the wheels with zero camber as soon as you enter a corner the
wheel on the outside of the bend (the one that provides the most driving force) will
roll over slightly due to the cornering forces, the body will also roll over.
The tyre on this wheel will no longer have the ideal contact patch on the road, meaning
the cornering performance is reduced. Now if you set the car up with negative camber,
when it enters the corner the wheel and body will still roll over but this time,
if set-up correctly, the wheel will roll over to near zero camber. This means the
tyre contact patch is much better, so cornering performance will improve.
So static* negative camber is used to compensate for body roll, body distortion and
tyre roll when cornering. The downside to all this though is that having the car set-up
with large negative camber means the tyres can wear on the inside edges when driven
in a straight line continually. Setting up the camber is matter of balancing out
the performance gains during cornering with the tyre wear effects on the straights.
*Static means with the vehicle stationary and under no load.
Castor Angle
Castor Angle is the angle to the vertical plane on which the steering axis sits as viewed
from the side. In other words imagine looking at the side of the front wheel,
the Castor Angle is the angle an imaginary line makes that is drawn through the
centre of top ball joint (or top mount of a Macpherson strut) and down through the
lower suspension arm ball joint. Looking on the diagram, if you follow the Castor Angle line
down you can see it hits the ground in front of where the tyres contact with the ground,
this is Positive Castor.
This means the tyres will always follow the steering input or in other words act just
like a normal furniture castor wheel. Castor Angle determines the amount of self-centring
the steering will have, influence the straight-line running and with the Kingpin Angle
it will influence the camber change when cornering as a function of the steering input.
Castor Angle traditionally used to be very small as large amounts of Castor Angle
created heavy steering, now most cars have power steering this is not such a problem.
Large Castor Angles mean greater, dynamic** camber changes can be created and that
means better negative camber when cornering and smaller camber on the straight,
ideal for both performance and wear of the tyres unfortunately too large a castor angle
can lead to poor turn-in.
**Dynamic means with the vehicle moving and under load.
Kingpin Inclination
Kingpin Angle, Kingpin Inclination (KPI) or Swivel-Axis Inclination (SAI)
This is much like Castor Angle, in fact it is exactly the same imaginary line through
the centre of the top ball joint (or top mount of a Macpherson strut) and down through
the centre of the lower ball joint except Kingpin Angle is the angle this line makes to the
vertical as viewed from the front of the car and not the side. The Kingpin angle is set to
try and get the pivot point as close to the tyres contact point on the road as possible (generally).
This is done as otherwise the wheel will �scrub� on ground when turned as the pivot is off centre.
The distance between the point where the Kingpin Angle hits the ground and where the tyre
meets the ground is called the �Kingpin Offset� or �Scrub Radius�. A positive Scrub Radius
or Kingpin Offset is when the Kingpin Angle hits the road surface on the inside of the
centre line of the tyre contact point (see the diagram below), a negative Scrub Radius is
when the Kingpin Angle hits the road on the outside of the centre line of the tyre contact point.
The Kingpin Angle, along with the Castor, dictates the self-centring action of the steering
and the affect the steering will have under braking. Fitting larger wheels can alter the
Scrub Radius if the correct offset is not chosen which in turn can affect the handling.
So what do I set the Geometry too?
Actually there is no one universal answer to this as one person's preference
maybe completely the opposite to someone else's.
For example if someone tells you to run with 2 degrees of negative camber on
the front without asking you how you drive or on what roads then they may just be
condemning your tyres to an early grave if you mainly do motorway miles!
The only advice really is to start with the factory settings, run for a while with those
and then tweak it here and there until you get the right balance for you.
For the Evo�s the only adjustable items are the Front and Rear Toe and Front and
Rear Camber (camber to a lesser degree on the earlier Evo�s). Castor and Kingpin angle
are only adjustable very slightly or not adjustable at all. Castor and
Camber can be adjusted if an aftermarket kit is fitted.
Use the first table as a starting point... then go from there with the detailed information supplied.
For example further 'tweeking' information is available at MLR... Click Here! _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Sun Sep 18, 2005 6:26 am; edited 3 times in total |
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JUS4SHO Looking for the Jedi base
Joined: 28 May 2005 Posts: 45 Location: on zorce
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Posted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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*PRINT* _________________ friends dont let friends drive stock |
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venum Looking for the Jedi base
Joined: 05 Sep 2005 Posts: 37
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Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2005 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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nice info there
can really clear up some alignment questions |
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Greypatch Jedi Hopeful
Joined: 13 Apr 2005 Posts: 193 Location: Eating Ham....
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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:59 am Post subject: |
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excellent _________________ Handle every situation like a dog...If you can't Eat it or Screw it.
Piss on it and Walk Away |
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Yeo Zorce Jedi Master
Joined: 06 Apr 2005 Posts: 1936 Location: Far Rockaway, NY
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 11:32 am Post subject: |
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WRT the Evo VII, will the settings be the same for the USDM? _________________ www.ttonline.org
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~�V�gŲ�~ Sith-ing down in the corner
Joined: 06 Apr 2005 Posts: 57
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Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 5:51 pm Post subject: |
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some place told me that my caster off.......... _________________ RISE POST COUNT RISE.................. |
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redras Pumpum Conqueror
Joined: 04 Sep 2005 Posts: 19
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Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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lovely.......... _________________
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Sanctifier Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
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Posted: Sun Sep 25, 2005 10:11 am Post subject: |
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Yeo wrote: | WRT the Evo VII, will the settings be the same for the USDM? |
Sorry to take so long to reply. Since E7 is in Table #1, I suppose you meant Evo 8???
I'll check Workshop Manual and post info today.
~�V�gŲ�~ wrote: | some place told me that my caster off.......... |
~�V�gŲ�~ I'll try to include specs for the Gallant VRG as well... Howzat! _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick! |
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Sanctifier Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
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Posted: Tue Sep 27, 2005 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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Sanctifier wrote: | Yeo wrote: | WRT the Evo VII, will the settings be the same for the USDM? |
Sorry to take so long to reply. Since E7 is in Table #1, I suppose you meant Evo 8???
I'll check Workshop Manual and post info today.
~�V�gŲ�~ wrote: | some place told me that my caster off.......... |
~�V�gŲ�~ I'll try to include specs for the Gallant VRG as well... Howzat! |
Damn!! The Gallant GDI Manual that I have is a 'Suppliment.'
It doesn't even have basic alignment specs... 300+ pages and no alignment specs!
Yeo I'll get back to you on the specs on the US E8... checking *.pdf now. _________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!
Last edited by Sanctifier on Mon Feb 12, 2007 4:47 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Sanctifier Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005 Posts: 1794 Location: Good question!
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Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2005 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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Finally the info requested...
2003 Evolution 8 Alignment Specifications & Procedure - USDM.
Workshop Manual Page #33A-7:
Workshop Manual Page #33A-8:
_________________ Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick! |
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