How To "Evolutionize" your Lancer!

[Sanctifier]

Evolutionize your Lancer... So yuh want ah Evo real bad, eh
Chief gurus for these upgrades are Marc Pogsen of ("Evo 7-into-GSR") fame and
John ("Ah wanna Ford too!") Ferreira, with (Vauxhall Fanatic Too!) Sanctifier playin' backup.
They were here a few nights ago, and added to the database (mi head)
Marc did a E7 4G63-into-CM5A transplant, with E5/GSR drivetrain mix and tried other swaps.
John did an Evo 1-into-'CC' GSR swap too, so these guys know what they're talking about!
I'm doing a lil' CM5A GSR-to-Evo 6 TME conversion as we speak... (Ahm... "light" wallet... Eventually!)

Body-shells -
Unless you want FWD only (Why?) forget about buying anything but the following models:
The older 4wd 1800 GSR ('CC' shape, or older Libero GT), or the newer CM5A (CK shape.)
BTW a 300 hp 4G63 in a FWD will be a real handfull without a front 'helical' LSD.
Can you say "Torque Steer" BTW Helical LSDs from RS Evo models are like gold.
Try darting to one side on acceleration and to the next on "lift off." It should be fun

To convert to 4wd from FWD is a serious amount of work too, with a ton of fabrication,
welding and scrounging, because you need all the 4wd 1800 GSR or Evo parts anyway.
See links below... or Click here! for Lancer fwd & LHD - to - 4wd & RHD conversion

If your buget forces you to stick to FWD, all is not lost. Transplant a 4G93 turbo motor
from an 1800 GSR (what else?) and try to get an Evo RS 'helical' front diff (Good luck!)
At least you'll get less torque steer with this one and will have a much more pleasant,
and economical (milage) driving experience too. Hey! It's still 205 hp
You should be able to "spank" a WRX too, especially in the lighter 'CC' shape.

Cheapest $$$ is older CC-shape 1800 GSR, with older Evo 1-3 (or US Eclipse) engine,
with stock GSR box & suspension.
You need older (right side) drivetrain.
For tight bugets, 1800 GSR box, transfer case and rear diff can work.
All Evo 1-to-3 body parts bolt-on, even to Libero GT AFAIK.

Your best bet (more $$$) is a Lancer 4wd CM5A (CK-shape) 1800 GSR as a base.
You need newer (left side) drivetrain.
GSR box, transfer case and drivetrain can work too in a pinch.
Easier to get replacement panels. All Evo 4-to-6 body parts bolt-on too.
I prefer the newer CM5A (CK) shell, because the older models tend to rust more easily.

Brakes -
Before you start, know how you're stopping. Itz Your Life ... and others too.
Upgrade the brakes. This power can put you in deep sheit very quickly.
Can you say brake fade? Even Evo 3/4 twin-pot brakes fade quickly with 4G63 power.
Do you really want brake fade at 150 mph To order coffin... Link---> Click here!

Go BREMBO Evo front spindles swap into CM5A GSR hubs. I haven't tried rear yet.
Add Evo Master cylinder & Booster too for (correct) brake pedal travel and
front-to-rear brake balance.
You will need 17" rims with Brembos... but you're goin' there anyhow.
Brake Pads - Option: Use Ferrodo DS 2500 (Brembo) pads. They stop better too!
They cost about $300 US per car-set vs. OEM Brembo pads @ $1800-$3500 TT front only.

Engine -
Older blocks fit older gearboxes. Not sure if they work with newer gearboxes, so...
If using older 'CC' shell with engine mounted on left (passenger's) side; use Evo 1-3
or for bargain basement, use a 4G63 from a US Eclipse.

For later Lancers after 1995, with engine mounted on right side, use Evo 4-9 engines.
(If you get an Evo 9 engine I'll buy it from you.)
All Evo 4-to-9 engines fit...
CAUTION: E4 engine is not as strong as later E5-9 models, and handles less boost.
Evo 4 ECU pin-out is different to Evo 5 and 6 too, so harness does not allow upgrades.
Evo 4 has smaller (510 cc) fuel injectors than E5-E8 (560 cc) injectors.
Also E4 "TD05HR-16G-9T" turbo and cams are less efficient.

Clutch - How fast and how often can you say "Upgrade"?
Info from many owners suggests that stock Evo 7 flywheel, clutch-disk and pressure plate
is the strongest model but still only lasts about 18 months, much less if you "flog" it.
Stock clutch just a lil better than marshmallows. Yuh spank 'um... Yuh slip 'um.
Alternatives for "Broke" Tuners (ABT): Least-to-most expensive -
1. Stock Evo clutch kit and frequent changes. (A Royal Pain In The Azz to do.)
... Parts cost $3,500(?) landed and duty-paid (now add flywheel). Installation Extra
2. ACT or Centreforce or similar - give severe drive-train loading on launch.
... Use "sprung" disks at least, and try to avoid "copper" types. (Hell on flywheels.)
... "Unsprung" disks can break AYC rear ends quickly; though LSDs are much stronger.
... Kits (including flywheel) cost over $6,000 landed and duty-paid(?). Installation Extra
3. Exedy 'Cerametalic" Twin-plate... EXPEN$IVE as hell ($10,300 TT in USA)
... but this one is in an Evo 6 on Grenada's hills and going strong after three years hard use.
It's the same one used in Barry McKenzie's (ex Peter Morris) Evo 6 RS in regional rallying.
It has a "soft" pedal feel too. Take your pick If importing Exedy PM me for *$$ saving tip*.

Gearbox & Transfer Case -
To avoid headaches, upgrade clutch before you install 4G63.
Install with box and case (from below) Easier than fighting box then case.
I didn't... caught my AZZ too
Lift body - Use axle stands! Check "Coffin Instructions" above*
Evo 7-to-9 gearbox fits, but their transfer case touches in CK shells...
either modify firewall (best) or use Evo 4-to-6 transfer case with E7 box if you want.
All E7 "5-speed" gearbox parts bolt into E5-6 "5-speed" casings
All Evo and GSR transfer cases swap around, as long as doner has engine on same side.
So GSR (CM5A) case works with E4-9(?) "5-speed" box... use GSR rear diff with it.
Front and Rear gear-ratios must always be compatible! -
Always use transfer case and rear diff from the same model car.

Rear suspension / rear diff. Choices - (worst-to-best)
3rd) Evo 4-to-6 AYC (weakest, especially for 'drags') (All AYC E4-E9 kinna flakey IMO.)
E4-to-E7 AYCs give "idiot-proof" handling but restricts driver at the limit. E8-E9s much better!
2nd) Evo 4-to-8 RS rear LSD (with correct axles) (strongest, good handling, rare & $$$)
1st) 1800 GSR=Evo 3=Evo 4 rear suspension, with rear helical LSD already installed.
... (strong, best handling IMHO, no understeer-inducing "push" like Evo RS "clutch-type" LSD.
... & ITZ FREE if you bought a 4wd GSR)

Wheels -
Use 17" rims with Brembo front calipers: Check caliper clearance first.
OEM Evos are 7.5" (E5-6), and 8" (E7-8 ). 8"+ better. Use Evo air-dam and front fenders.
Different offset of E7 rims (+ suspension geometry), make CM5A / E5-6 steering "heavy".
In CM5A shell, 6.5" is widest 17" rim that fits without scrubbing...
Either 'jack' fenders (?) OR do an 'E5 or 6' conversion (best).
With Evo panels, use 17"x 7.5" (E5-6), or 8" with correct offset (checking now).
E7-8 (8") rims cause heavier steering in CM5A (wrong "offset"?)
For stock 1800 GSRs you need 205/45 x 17" tyres, as 215/45 x 17" also scrub.
CAUTION: 215/40 x 17" tyres fit, but will rupture easily, and give a very harsh ride.
I ruptured all four when I couldn't get "45's" (in three months)
Front and Rear tyre sizes must always be the same! -
Use same diameter rims and tyre profiles front & rear... rim widths can vary.

::: Other "Lancer Project" links...
Here are three "real" tuners
Simple "bolt-ons" are not enough for this first guy...
This MadMan designs and fabricates his own missing components
Project Lancer Part 1 - Click here!
Project Lancer Part 2 - Click here!
Project Lancer Part 3 - Click here!

Here's another...
Lancer V6 Coupe - Click here!

One more: This 2nr did what most think about but few attempt, with good reason!
Mirage fwd & LHD - to - Evo 3 4wd & RHD conversion - Click here!

BTW Feel free to add installation tips and VFAQs as required. I'll edit as usual.

Everybody's $0.25c
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!

[Sanctifier]

Jeez... no feed-back ... No more Tips
Like nobody upgrading to Evo-power any more
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!

[Greypatch]

boi pallies ah just soaking in the info right now
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Handle every situation like a dog...If you can't Eat it or Screw it.
Piss on it and Walk Away

[mitsu power]

BOy santi why mitsu make it so hard for we boy if its not the mivec its the 63 if its not
a gearbox its the setup boy is better a go nissan less headache but less power to so
any was a look at it a might be your age before a could buy me first evo lol
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Trying to own a evo

[Sanctifier]

Boi ah hope not fuh your sake
Yuh see how yuh gettin depressed an talkin dat set ah Nissan ting...
Ah ent tink yuh have dat much patience

Anyway I think you missed the whole purpose of this thread...
Mitsu offers so much cross-compatibility that you can take 1800 GSR components, add
a 4G63 and have so damn near an Evo 'clone' as not to be able to notice the difference.
For example I read today that the standard 'Mirage' (Lancer?) spider gears in the
front diff are the same dimensions as those in an Evo 8 US open front diff.
Look at the Canadian PARTS options now available to us (*links above.)

You still want better than that
Then they give you the option to beat Lamboghinis, Porsches and even mighty Ferraris
with progressive upgrades using stock OEM components. Yup prices are still a killer...
but we're talkin' about beating some of the best supercars in the World...
for the price of a new econo-box if you build it yourself Still not enough
You expect to beat a supercar with a buget of $50k and still have all-round flexability too

Look how much Mitsu was asking for 405 hp last year with the FQ400...
nearly ₤48k (over $560k TT) + duty + VAT
Look at the price of an Evo IX that handles even better and is only 60 hp short
A stock Evo 8 GSR in 2004 was $400k in T&T with 280 hp... A UK Evo IX FQ340 is 345 bhp
Now you have even cheaper new models like the GT or RS...
or older 1800 GSRs for tuners to build their own
You could build a 'clone' that outruns a good Porsche for about one third of Evo price.
... and that is about one-twelfth of the Porsche price too Damn a good used RORO
Subaru WRX STi is even more than a 'tuned' Evo clone and can't see it.
Yesterday an STi driver said that a set of Brembo pads was over $6000
Even OEM Evo pads are less than that Still not enough Boi.. like yuh want 'blood'

Yuh can't expect to eat chicken and taste steak!... but a GSR Evo 'clone' lets you buy
cheap steak and eat a gourmet five course meal costing ten times more.
Build GSR 'Clone"... Eat Porsche
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Walk softly... and carry a BIG stick!

[horsepwrjunki]

C62aSHELL !!!!!!
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Smoking kills

[R. Mutt]

I am thinking of getting a CM5A/CD5A. Right now money is tight. I talked to John Ferreira about his and he's asking 70K. Do you know if he swapped in the evo 1 gearbox and brakes as well or left those as 'GSR'??

Also, will the 10.5 turbine exhaust housing work on the Evo 1 4g63...or is it best to just get an evo 8 turbo period? Will it bolt up...or do I have to go custom and look at Eclipse DSM tuning and aftermarket 'bolt on' turbos?
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[Sanctifier]

[BLUE_CP9A]

nice one sanct only now read this
nice info i see you remember ppl's advice and amazing how well you complied that list well done
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#69
100cc Yamaha KT100 engine
Birel CR32SR motosport chassis

[Sanctifier]

[BLUE_CP9A]

[southsidecrew]

Hey the John you'll talkin bout works off shore??? and has a white gsr/now evo if its him he has everything Evo drivetrain also..he is an honnest guy too... car works nice.... did he sell the gsr engine yet...

[southsidecrew]

orr i think it was an Evo 2 engine..not too sure one that...

[BLUE_CP9A]

Sanctifier

Need a lil help here

Looking at Front wheel Drive Gearboxes that can work on 2nd gen(4-9) eov engines and possibly take the jamming??Its for a friend

thanks
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#69
100cc Yamaha KT100 engine
Birel CR32SR motosport chassis

[Sanctifier]