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Sanctifier
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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 Posted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 6:02 am Post subject: |
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^ ^ ^ | 2nr-with-a-mortgage wrote: |
man,
thanks thats exactly the advice I need to hear.
I think your $0.02� may be worth more than you give yourself credit for.
I guess I'll do an independent compression test first off.
I already have an exedy single disc, its a 3 puck sprung disc. works fine for now but i know I'll need to upgrade that too.
my mechanic is reliable and trustworthy but I know at the end of the day its what brings in the money. He actually quoted a $12000. rebuild, which I know I don't need.
I'll take your advice in deeper consideration and will let you know how things turn out. I may also need your advice in the future so I hope you can tolerate my questions.
thanks again |
| Sanctifier wrote: |
Don't be too hard on him. These days it's hard to tell but $12k may be a bit high.
Maybe for forged rods + forged pistons + bearings + water & oil pumps + gaskets etc. etc...
I hope you can tolerate my questions.... I hope you can tolerate my answers. 
Keep me posted... |
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Rick
Pumpum Conqueror
Joined: 26 Jun 2005
Posts: 14
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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Wow its ben a while since anyone has posted here...so here i go...
I'm lookin to get me some rims for my box lancer...I currently have 13's on d car...im looking to get either 16's or 17's......which should i choose?
What wheel spacing should i look for?(in guessing 4x100) an what offset? wanna keep it as close to de original offset as possible! |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 3:50 am Post subject: |
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| Rick wrote: | | ... rims for my box lancer... have 13's on d car...looking to get 16's or 17's... |
The best 2nr to answer the offset question is zodiaque... (or 4G63 turbo on 3ne 2nr.)
PM both of them.
First question... Is the OEM 1400 engine still installed?
Are you going to swap in a bigger engine? If not IMHO stick to 14" rims maximum.
The TALLER the tyre (rolling radius)... the SLOWER the acceleration.
16" or 17" rims will make the car VERY slow with a 1400 engine IMHO.
If you are going to do an engine swap then you can go to 16" or 17" rims
... BUT UPGRADE YOUR BRAKES (and shocks) FIRST!!!
I owned TWO 1400 Lancers... the OEM brakes were barely adequate for that engine.
More power=More Speed=More BRAKE FADE!!!... I owned two rwd Lancer 1800 GSRs.
The OEM 4-wheel disks ONLY work with top quality disk pads.
Cheap pads = CONSTANT (dangerous) brake fade... (Been there... Done that!) 
Whenever (If ever ) I can afford to rebuild my rwd 1800 GSR I'll use Brembo calipers
from an Evo. With at least 200 bhp, then I'll need 17" rims.
Careful... not all 17" rims work with Brembos. Do a trial fit (with a tyre) first.
A cheaper (great) alternative is to use the front 2-pot calipers from a Galant VR4
or Evo 1-3. Use the master cylinder from that model too.
Then you can use a 15" or 16" rim of your choice.
My $0.02�
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Thu Nov 22, 2007 3:50 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Rick
Pumpum Conqueror
Joined: 26 Jun 2005
Posts: 14
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| Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 3:01 pm Post subject: |
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Arite i realised that i should have been a bit more specific....i've got one of de local gsr's,
4wheel disc brakes which it came with, 4G32 1600 engine with double side draft
mikuni carbs and extractors......with de 5 fwd gearbox.
probably in the future i may or may not do an engine swap.....
| Quote: | | The OEM 4-wheel disks ONLY work with top quality disk pads. |
What brand do u recomend?
| Quote: | A cheaper (great) alternative is to use the front 2-pot calipers from a Galant VR4
or Evo 1-3. Use the master cylinder from that model too |
How much modification do i have to do to get this setup to work?
thanks for all the advice thus far! |
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1794
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 6:20 am Post subject: |
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| Rick wrote: | | Quote: | | The OEM 4-wheel disks ONLY work with top quality disk pads. |
What brand do u recomend?
| Quote: | A cheaper (great) alternative is to use the front 2-pot calipers from a Galant VR4
or Evo 1-3. Use the master cylinder from that model too |
How much modification do i have to do to get this setup to work? |
Disk pads... I learnt the hard way that cheap pads caused fade. Never bought good ones.
Check Andy at Miniciti (Valpark Mall) for EBC Green Stuff pads. These are supposed to be good.
PM 4g63 and Devi they should be able to recommend other good brands.
front 2-pot calipers from a Galant VR4...
You may have to modify/make the support bracket bolting the caliper to the hub...
Check bolt spacing on your car and compare with new parts first. You might be lucky.
BANzai owns a Galant VR4. He used to have calipers for sale. A PM might help.
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
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Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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PM received today...
| 2nr wrote: | Picked up what sounded like a Con Rod knock so I pulled the pan which had
the typical brass specs in it.
Changed the bearings with ACL race and also the rod bolts with ARP but the bearings
did not spin and we in pretty good shape.
The crank was perfect but now I have a slight knock @ 3k-4k rpm what do you think...
...Balace Shafts ? |
2nr remember I am NOT a professional mechanic... just another enthusiast like yourself
with another opinion.
But first things first... what caused the bearing failure in the first place? The con-rod bearings
didn't spin, right?... so maybe low/poor oil-pressure at higher rpm... *OIL-PUMP*
What caused this NEW bearing knock?... Low/Poor oil pressure too!... not so?... *OIL-PUMP*
Long story short... IMHO you may have a faulty oil-pump. If so ALL the other bearings have
also taken a beating too... not just the con-rod bearings.
BTW, IMHO if you have a knock and chips in your oil you also had (or maybe still have)
chips THROUGHOUT the engine... AND inside the oil-galleries and *OIL-PUMP* too
... AND in between the OTHER bearings as well!!!... Not so?
Sorry... but remove engine again... strip... CLEAN... replace oil-pump...
replace ALL bearings (yup, balance-shaft bearings too.)
While you're at it... make it a long-term reliable rebuild... replace WATER-PUMP too!
It's the same age as the oil-pump... and even if the pistons and con-rods are okay...
replace the RINGS as well (after slight honing to get a fresh "cross-hatch" pattern...
(less oil burning... longer engine life... BUT MEASURE bore and ring-gap FIRST!)
new ARP con-rod bolts... BTW OEM  con-rod bolts are "torque-to-yield" and are NOT reusable...
ARP bolts ARE reusable... but do NOT just use a torque wrench to re-tighten these
con-rod bolts... ALL con-rod bolts should ALWAYS be torqued with a STRETCH GAUGE.
That is the only thing that will reduce the chance of spinning a rod-bearing...
Re-read the leaflet (or go to ARP's web site) for torque specifications required when re-using
ARP con-rod bolts. (If it's not there, then email them. BTW please let me know what they reply.)
Only use a fairly new torque wrench as a LAST RESORT if you don't have a Stretch gauge.
Nope, I don't have a stretch-gauge... I'm going to buy one BEFORE I rebuild my
E6 engine early next year.
More details from the REAL experts here...
Link--> ~ From The Archives ~ A Guide To Engine Blueprinting.
My $0.02�... Hope it helps.
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Sanctifier
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Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 2:38 am Post subject: |
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| evo2nr wrote: | | ...I have a evo 6 and wanted to know what are the best mods for it... |
MOST IMPORTANT "MOD": (IMHO)
IMHO a daily driver 1.8 GSR/Evo 4-6 soon becomes tiring/annoying on long trips or in traffic.
>>> (Noise/Vibration & Harshness.) That's the only thing I don't like about both my cars.
Cure is simple... FoamSeal expanded urethane in rocker panels. US kits available (Google.)
>>> ADD another resonator in place of Catalytic converter. Both options are cheap and will
add the most to your driving pleasure. Yup, even more than extra power will IMHO.
| Quote: | BTW FoamSeal also makes your chassis STIFFER and improves cornering. 
Just like a rally car... and safer than using a roll-cage in a street car too.
BTW newer Lancer Cedia's rocker panels are filled with expanded foam from the factory...
Link--> The Truth: ~ About Rollcages & Racing Harnesses. |
| evo2nr wrote: | | Ok. What about cams, headers and re-flashed or aftermarket ecu? |
This causes the most arguments... IMHO leave it as it is for now. Learn to drive Evo FIRST.
BTW IMHO upgrade for reliability first...
| Quote: | UPGRADE SCHEDULE:
BRAKES: Replace brake fluid... Check/machine/replace rotors... Upgrade disk pads
(Ferodo DS 2500 are excellent... and cheaper than OEM Brembo...
Not sure but "Hawk" may be a bit harsher than "Ferodo" on your rotors.)
STEERING: Replace power steering fluid, steering ends and ball joints (if necessary.).
ENGINE: Replace belts, tensioner, fluids etc.
ADD >>> ARP Cylinder head Stud Kit (for higher boost)... and OEM Evo 8 head gasket.
Replace water-pump and oil-pump. (They are nearly 10 years old.) |
Maintenance Data: Link--> The Tuners' Guide - Inside Lancer Evolution VIII RS/GSR/MR
>>> Info is almost identical for the Evo 4-6.
If a "tight" budget is your biggest issue... then leave everything stock for now and get an
Evo 7 ECU with a Mellon Racing reflash.
After at least six months... then look for bigger upgrades. Save your $$$ meanwhile.
IMHO if you fiddle with the usual intake, exhaust and a piggyback ECU, you will only
net mild HP gains that you'll get bored with very quickly.
Here's my $0.02� for a reliable, economical and satisfying "daily driver" ... with NO lag!
1st two turbo setups use STOCK short block. No forged internals...no stroker kit...no $$$
| Quote: |  EvoGREEN turbo ($1695 US) for RELIABLE 415 WTQ and 385 WHP on Pump gas!
435+ WTQ and 400+ WHP on Pump gas and Water/Meth Injection.
More is possible with more upgrades... up to 507 WTQ and 443 WHP on C-16 race gas.
>>>>> THE single best mod for torque & power. You also need 720-750 cc Injectors...
Walbro 255 ltr/min HP fuel pump... ECU reflash (not ECUTek.)
>>>>> This is also one of the CHEAPEST turbo upgrades available.
Cams: Street: HKS 272's or similar. HKS 264's aren't much better than stock 'MR' IMHO.
.......... Competition: JUN 272's.
Exhaust:... Use a 2.75-to-3 inch turbo back system... depending on turbo used.
>>> OEM turbo=2.75" / EvoGREEN=3" with cheaper Buschur ceramic coated O2 housing.
Headers... Nope! IMHO use ported cast iron exhaust manifold. Doesn't crack like headers
do in daily use. Torque/Power increase from headers alone is small compared to other
mods (above) and reliability suffers IMHO.
BTW mild porting on Intake-to-Throttle body interface helps too.
ECU... Buy an Evo 7 ECU and a Mellon Racing reflash. One of the most effective,
economical reflashes. Multiple reflashes for continuous upgrade program available. |
MY $0.03��
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1794
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 9:25 am Post subject: |
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More of the same...
| Evo 8 2nr wrote: | So I just got my arse handed to me... by a
Subaru STI and frankly im not about to take that, dam it
My car just wasn�t performing; i believe it was due to my stock clutch starting to give way (i am guessing, not sure)
I ran 13.9 to 14's all evening, which i think is very poor for a e8 rs
So apart from changing the clutch what do you guru's suggest, apart from the basics
1. tbe
2. boost controller
3. injectors
4. rom tune
Feel free to add, |
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Sun Feb 17, 2008 11:05 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Sanctifier
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Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 9:29 am Post subject: |
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| Evo 8 2nr wrote: | | ...apart from changing the clutch... |
IMHO most of Evo fuel system is more than adequate, even with bigger cams installed.
You don't need bigger injectors until you install a turbo bigger than an OEM Evo IX.
You DO need a stronger fuel pump (OEM pump is "flakey" sometimes.)
| Quote: | Use Walbro 255 ltr/min fuel pump (High Pressure model.)
For reliability at higher boost, ADD ARP head-stud kit.
If reflashing for higher RPM, use APR con-rod bolts. |
Other three: (Reflash / Turbo-back exhaust / Boost controller) are ideal for 1st steps.
When you get bored with that... ADD these...
| Quote: | FP EvoGREEN turbo,
720-750 cc/min injectors,
Water/Methanol injection kit (with 'failsafe' options.)
Cams (Street Use: HKS 272's or similar)... and
Another reflash. ('Mellon Racing', 'Jester' or similar) |
No STi (or almost anything else OEM, including Skylines, Supras, BMWs and most Porsches)
will be too much of a problem after that. 
My $0.02�
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:57 pm Post subject: |
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| New Evo owner wrote: | ...do i go with a gsr or an mr edition wheter it be a 7 or 8?
My preference is with a 6fwd gear box but i've had no experience with mistu's version of their 6fwd.
I asked the Q here what's the most common engine failure on the 4g63T engines ... it seems to be blown gaskets.
The other myth/problem i've heard is that transfer cases are a problem too. Can you verify?
Same goes for pistons leaving the block and unbalanced factory engines?
I have forged out blocks as you have recommended, but with the "rival" manufacturer.
cp pistons/rings / acl race bearings / cometic gaskets / arp head studs etc.
I do plan to go this route if needs be on the evo block.
pls point me in the right direction wrt to info. I will never know everything but welcome any help. |
I will never know everything... Padna, NOBODY knows everything about anything... especially here! IMHO we all here to learn from each other.
point me in the right direction wrt to info... Here yuh go... Link--> The Mitsubishi Madmen.
After try the Mitsubishi Lancer Register (UK) and evolutionm.net (USA)
See "The Directory" page at The Mitsubishi Madmen Forum.
Other issues:
do i go with a gsr or an mr... Depends on what's available.
| Quote: | | IMHO your best bet is an E7 or E8 RS model... It's LIGHTER... No AYC (stronger rear LSD... better for drags)... Front helical LSD, like all MR models (MOST important part for GREAT handling) |
My preference is with a 6fwd gear box...
| Quote: | Heavier and more fragile than 5-speed.
You don't need 6-speed if you increase torque when upgrading engine.
6-speed also SLOWER in 1/4 mile drags... |
the most common engine failure... seems to be blown gaskets...
| Quote: | Nope... con-rod bolts
(ppl will say con-rods but the bolts are the issue.) |
transfer cases are a problem too...
| Quote: | | Yup, especially with GSRs. They have an "open" front diff (no front LSD) in transfer case... That causes most of the problems IMHO. Evo 8-9 MR has front helical LSD... MUCH stronger, less issues. (BTW so do ALL Evo 4-9 RS models.) |
unbalanced factory engines?...
| Quote: | | Yuh lost me here. All 4G63 have two balance shafts. Leave them in. |
forged out blocks as you have recommended, but with the "rival" manufacturer...
| Quote: | What rival manufacturer? DON'T buy anything for the engine until you buy the car.
You need the block for measurements first. |
My $0.02�
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Rory Phoulorie
Zorce Jedi Knight
Joined: 26 Jan 2007
Posts: 1698
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| Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 9:44 am Post subject: |
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When installing threaded coil-overs, I read that it is important to adjust them such that you distribute the load equally on all tyres, with the best way of achieving this being through the use of scales.
Does anyone know where in Trinidad a coil-over suspension can be installed, and more importantly, set up properly using the scales?
In the 11 years I had my CK Lancer, I have never had the cause to replace the shocks and springs. I am thinking about changing out the engine to something with more power and I want to go about this the correct way. I would therefore like to upgrade the suspension and brakes before I even look at the engine.
I am looking at a set of Ksport Kontrol Pro Coilovers (sourced out of the USA), supplemented by Whiteline sway bars and strut braces (sourced out of Australia)? Does anyone have any opinions on this setup, or better recommendations on a suspension upgrade? |
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1794
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 7:49 am Post subject: |
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| Rory Phoulorie wrote: | When installing threaded coil-overs, I read that it is important to adjust them such that you distribute the load equally on all tyres, with the best way of achieving this being through the use of scales.
Does anyone know where in Trinidad a coil-over suspension can be installed, and more importantly, set up properly using the scales?
In the 11 years I had my CK Lancer, I have never had the cause to replace the shocks and springs. I am thinking about changing out the engine to something with more power and I want to go about this the correct way. I would therefore like to upgrade the suspension and brakes before I even look at the engine.
I am looking at a set of Ksport Kontrol Pro Coilovers (sourced out of the USA), supplemented by Whiteline sway bars and strut braces (sourced out of Australia)? Does anyone have any opinions on this setup, or better recommendations on a suspension upgrade? |
My apologies for taking so long to answer, Rory.
...where in Trinidad a coil-over suspension can be set up properly using scales?... Actually, I was checking a few months ago. Honda Hoe (Wesley Nandoo's) Dad runs an industrial scale company. They have scales.
I've heard that some T&T Rally Club members also have access to scales.
"Search" 3ne 2nr. A new Power Seller recently advertised this service too.
I would therefore like to upgrade the suspension and brakes before I even look at the engine...
Sorry, I haven't heard of Ksport Kontrol Pro suspension.
IMHO ask the experts for advice FIRST. BTW "Whiteline" is one of the best available IMHO.
... Then decide on your final specs BEFORE buying anything. They know best.
Then follow their advice TO THE LETTER... If you can't afford a complete kit now... buy it over a
period of time or research what WINNING cars are using and go that route AS A LAST RESORT.
My $0.02�
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Sun Jul 13, 2008 8:00 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 7:52 am Post subject: |
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PM received today...
Pressure...
| Pressure for 2nr wrote: | | sorry to bug you.could u shed some light...........do u experience understeer in the VI?i have a friend wht a VII and his car would basically stick to the roads during cornering at high speeds but mine would give a bit of understeer then start holding.could it be that i need to be aligned for this or is that how the car handles? |
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
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| Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 7:54 am Post subject: |
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| Pressure for 2nr wrote: | | sorry to bug you.could u shed some light...........do u experience understeer in the VI?i have a friend wht a VII and his car would basically stick to the roads during cornering at high speeds but mine would give a bit of understeer then start holding. could it be that i need to be aligned for this or is that how the car handles? |
do u experience understeer in the VI?... Yup... but at pretty high cornering speeds.
IMHO all 4wd cars (MOST cars, period) suffer from terminal understeer at the limit.
| Quote: | | Mine is an E6 RS with standard front helical LSD, over 250 lbs less weight, rear LSD, lower centre of gravity, etc. |
Never driven an E7 so I can't compare. The only info that I have to go on are Road Tests and
video clips. According to them all RS models understeer MUCH less than GSR model Evos...
especially the lower, lighter E6 RS's. Dowload FIFTH GEAR's track test of Evo 9 vs. Evo 6...
Link--> Fifth Gear: Evo 9 vs Evo 6
friend's VII... would stick to the roads during cornering at high speeds but mine would... understeer then start holding.
could it be that i need to be aligned for this or is that how the car handles?... IMHO this might help...
If you both have E7's then alignment is the first thing to look at. Here are the specs...
Link--> Mitsubishi alignment settings, and what they really mean!
After alignment, compare the two cars again. If yours still understeers, then look at servicing
your rear AYC system.
Dirty fluid, bad adjustment etc. can cause handling problems.
See here for AYC Maintenance Info...
Link--> Active Yaw Control Maintenance - "How-To" Guide
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1794
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 10:50 am Post subject: |
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Quoted from another place...
| scientist wrote: | The Results are In...Sanctifier weh you
Corner weighed results for the Evo X vs Evo IX
EVO X
463FL ... 460FR ... 923kg ... 56.4%
355RL ... 361RR ... 716kg ... 43.6%
1639kg
EVO 9
448FL ... 481FR ... 929kg ... 61.2%
284RL ... 306RR ... 590kg ... 38.8%
The front is lighter...but the rear is significantly heavier.
Now imagine reducing a bit of the rear weight to bring this car closer to the IXs weight. |
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