Peugeot FAQ: Check here first before posting a problem.

[solo]

I think we need a FAQ area for all the technical info to be stored... Like the AC short info by Dlittlelion and the torsion bar lowering tutorial.

Recently I had a niggling problem with my 306. From cold start the both cooling fans would run at high speed, the STOP warning light would flicker and after switching off the fans would run for 5 minutes or so with the ignition off.
Now the STOP light and the dual action of the fans are supposed to be warning indicators that your Pug is overheating, but as i said, from cold start this would happen and at irregular intervals while driving, indicatin a short circuit on the system somewhere(driving the temp gauge right down to 0).
Behind the grille on the Phase 1 306 there is a plastic box which contains 3 relays which control fan operations, their purposes are detailed on this website http://www.peugeotlogic.com/workshop/wshtml/electric/ac306/coolfan2/fanop1.htm

Now after cleaning and testing these relays and checking the necessary fuses with no let up on the problem, I realised that there is a cooling fan unit under the left front fender guard.This unit is responsible for triggering the STOP warning light, cooling fan operations and the timed running of the fans after ignition is switched off. By removing this unit, spraying it out with wd40 and spraying the connectors with electrical spray the problem has since been solved.

[Plex]

nice infor..lets get Liontamer sticky this thread...so we can u this infor if we have any problems..i see like u get through with the problem..

[solo]

Glad we have it stickyed fellas..

Lowering of rear suspension (Torsion bars)

This is for lowering the rear suspension (torsion bar setup). These instructions were taken from a Peugeot 205 website (can't remember the site) but it's the same procedure for the 306. Very easy to do fellas...


1. Jack the car up at the back and remove both wheels.

2. Remove the spare wheel, and spare wheel cage. (For easier access to the axle)

3. Unbolt the rear shocks from the rear radius arms and swing them up towards the boot floor of the car. In unbolting the shock you will release the bracket that carries the flexible brake line.


The Next steps should be performed on one side of the car then repeat for the other side:

4. On the radius arm there is a bracket that carries the hand brake cable and the solid brake line, release the handbrake cable and brake line from the bracket. Remove the 13mm bolt that secures the bracket to the radius arm. If you look at the Radius arm there is a plate that is secured by the same bolt that secures the bracket that carries the handbrake cable and solid brake line. The plate is pressed into the radius arm and in the center is a dust cap (approx 15mm in diameter) this can be unscrewed using a type 40 Torx tool.

5. Into the hole that you have just removed the Torx dust cap from gently wind in a well greased 19mm head bolt. The bolt needs to be at least 100mm long.

6. As you wind the bolt in (Expect resistance) the plate will start to come away from the radius arm. Keep winding the bolt in until the plate comes completely off of the radius arm. Remove the 19mm head bolt from the plate.

7. Look under the car and you will see the two torsion bars. One in front of the axle and the other behind. The relevant torsion bar is inserted into the radius arm you are working on. Now proceed round to the other side of the car, trace the torsion bar for the radius arm you are working and you will see that it inserts into a fixed casting on the axle. Sticking out the other side of the casting you will see a threaded stud with a screwdriver slot in it and a 13mm locking nut at its base. This is screwed into the torsion bar. Spray the locking nut and threaded stud with a lubricant (WD40) and undo the 13mm locking nut (Carefully). Then unscrew the threaded stud using a suitable screwdriver until considerable resistance is felt (The stud may be fairly hard to undo take care not to round out the slot cut in the end).

8. As soon as the threaded stud is undone the radius arm is free to be moved off of the end of the axle enough to allow adjustment of the torsion bar. However it is important to mark the torsion bar where it enters the casting. The end of the torsion bar is splined and so is the inside diameter of the casting. If you get a heavy mallet and knock the back edge of the radius arm driving it away from the center of the car (Slowly). You will see the splines on the end of the torsion bar start to appear out of the casting. At this point stop and mark one of the splines on the torsion bar and where that spline enters the casting. This will give you a reference point of your original ride height setting. When you are confident that your marking of the torsion bar is accurate continue driving the radius arm off of the axle until the torsion bar comes completely out of the casting. When you reach this point the radius arm will not fall off of the end of the axle but will swing down.

9. For this part you will need an assistant. Get your assistant to take hold of the radius arm while you take hold of the torsion bar. The assistant should lift the radius arm up into the wheel arch supporting it with their hands. Then you will using your original markings on the torsion bar and casting instruct your assistant to rotate the radius arm up into the wheel arch until you have advanced the radius arm up by one spline. Get your assistant to slowly slide the radius arm back into the axle, meanwhile you guide the torsion bar back into the casting. Just before your assistant pushes the radius arm home you should still be able to see the splines and your markings check that you have only rotated the radius arm up by one spline. When happy push the radius arm home as far is it will go. Now screw the threaded stud back in as far as it will comfortably go, drive the radius arm fully home using a mallet if necessary. Then wind the 13mm locking nut back down the threaded stud nice and tight.

10. The plate that presses into the radius arm should now be re-inserted. Before you insert it make sure it is in the approximate position that it was when you removed it, the hole in the end of it that the 13mm securing bolt goes through should line up with the threaded hole in the radius arm. To re-insert it will require a fair bit of effort you will need to use a mallet, be gentle though until you are sure that the plate is properly located and lined up and is travelling into the radius arm correctly and not at an angle. Drive the plate fully home, the 13mm bolt that secures the plate and the bracket that carries the handbrake cable and solid brake line should easily screw into its hole in the radius arm. If not remove the plate again (Follow steps 5 & 6) rotate the plate and re-insert it so the hole for the 13mm bolt lines up with the threaded hole in the radius arm. As soon as you are confident that the 13mm bolt will screw into the radius arm okay put the bracket that carries the handbrake cable and solid brake line back in place and screw the 13mm bolt fully home and tighten. Re-attach the handbrake cable and solid brake line.

11. Screw the torx dust cap back into the plate and tighten (Don't Over tighten)

12. Finally pull the rear shock back down and bolt it back on to the radius arm remembering to put the bracket that carries the flexible brake line back in place. You will need an assistant to push the radius arm down a bit to get the bottom of the shock to line up with its bolt because remember you have rotated the radius arm up into the arch. Tighten the shock securing bolt to the specified torque setting (See Haynes manual).

13. Now repeat step 4 to 12 for the other side of the car.

14. Replace the spare wheel cage and spare wheel. Replace the wheels. Let the car back down onto the ground.

15. You must now inspect the bump stops (Cone shaped rubber blocks bolted to the car to stop the radius arm bottoming out). If these are in contact with or very close to the radius arm then they will need cutting down to allow some suspension travel.


You have now successfully lowered the back of your Peugeot 205. The drop will vary from car to car depending on the amount of flex in the torsion bars. But on average you should see a lowering effect of around 40-50mm.
________________________________________

[LionTamer]

Information provided by the LittleLion


if the fans worked with the ac then the condition of the connection may not be the problem.............the fans are connected in series when the ac is on then switches to a parallel configuration via the relays when the temp goes up......the ecu also has a play in the operationof the fans................The fans have 2 functions.
1. To provide engine cooling in slow or stationary traffic conditions.
2. To provide constant airflow for the condenser when the A/C is operating.

The 2 fan motors always run together and have 2 speeds available. At low speed the motors' power circuit is switched in series and at high speed the circuit is changed over to parallel. A ballast resistor is therefore not required. The switching of the power circuit is done by the 3 relays which, are controlled by the control unit.
The following tasks can be performed by the control unit: Switching of the fan relays, illuminating the "STOP" warning light, illuminate the warning light on the temperature gauge, prevent the A/C compressor from operating under extreme engine temperature or under full engine load, timed post cooling when engine is shut down with the fans operating.
In order to carry out these tasks it receives inputs from the coolant temperature sensor, the air conditioning control panel, the refrigerant pressostat and the engine ECU.

The cooling fan control unit is located under the left guard below the head light. Remove the inner guard cover to gain access.
Temperature Sensor
The temperature sensor is mounted on the heather tank on the cylinder head at the bell housing end. The sensor is brown with a brown 2 way connector.
Fuses (power)
Fuse 33 and 34 in the fuse box near the battery.
Fuses (relay coils)
Fuse box with 30 fuses in passengers compartment.
Fuse 7, battery + to left fan relay and control unit.
Fuse 3, ignition + to right fan relay and change over relay.
Fuse 2, ignition + to control unit.
Earth connection 1
On the left chassis rail in front and below the battery carrier.
A/C Control Unit
Integrated in the control panel on the dash board

The low fan speed is called for:
1. When the engine temperature reaches 97�C and it will turn off when the temperature has droped to 90�C.
2. When the air contitioning system is switched on. It will run permanently regardless of engine temperature.
Only the "left fan relay" is energised. This relay has a permanent battery + supply from fuse 7 (fuse 10 for a 13 fusebox) in the passenger compartment fusebox.

When the coolant temperature reaches the threshold (about 97�) the control unit provides an earth for the relay coil and the contacts are now closed. This completes the power circuit for both fans.

The power circuit starts at the battery, to the engine bay fuse box through fuse 33, to pin 3 at the "left fan relay", out at pin 5 of the relay to the left fan motor, from here to the "change over relay".
The change over relay is at rest and provides a path between pin 3 and 4 to the right fan motor, the circuit is complete at pin 2 of the right fan motor when returning to earth.

The fans are switched in series and run at �speed. The voltage drop between the 2 fans is indicated in the diagram below with a lighter collour trace.

In the low speed configuration we have one circuit for both fans. The motors operate in series.

The high fan speed is called for:
1. When the engine temperature reaches 107�C.
2. When the A/C refrigerant high pressure threshold is reached.
3. When the temperature sensor circuit goes faulty. (open circuit)
Power circuit explained
All 3 relays are now energised.
See the low fan speed operation above for the "left fan relay" control.
The "change over relay" and the "right fan relay" are provided with ignition 12V via fuse 3 from the fuse box in the passenger compartment. (fuse 7 for a 13 fuse box).
When the coolant temperature reached the threshold, (about 107�C) the control unit switched the "change over relay" and the "right fan relay" to earth.
Left fan circuit, red trace.
The left fan motor is supplied with current from the battery via fuse 33 and the "left fan relay" (same as in low speed operation), from the motor the path leads to the "change over relay". This relay is now energised and directs the current to earth.
Right fan circuit, blue trace.
The right fan motor is supplied with current from the battery via fuse 34 and the "right fan relay". From the motor the current returns to earth; this completes the circuit.

In the high speed configuration we have a separate circuit for each fan. The motors operate in parallel.

[Plex]

Dealing with an Overheated Radiator

Overheating is one of the most common breakdowns that autos encounter during the summer season. It happens when the temperature of the coolant exceeds the normal operating temperature range of the engine. Overheating has many causes. Idling under hot weather for prolonged periods can wreak havoc on the cars cooling system, because the water pump doesn't turn fast enough. Thus the coolant is not circulated, as it should be. Sometimes a leak may cause the coolant level to drop thus causing the radiator to overheat.

Here are a few pointers for dealing with an overheated radiator:

Turn off the A/C. If the car is not seriously overheating, this will reduce the engine's temperature. The AC evaporator is located in front of the radiator, and it adds heat to the air going to your engine. The hotter the incoming air is, the less efficient the radiator will be.

Turn on your heater (set on highest temperature setting, with blower on highest setting). This will be uncomfortable for you, but it will cool the engine by transferring the heat to the air. Roll down the windows, and remember how 'hot' you'll get if your engine needs replacement!

If you're stuck in traffic, pull over and stop. Unless you're moving, very little cool air reaches the radiator. Open the hood and let the engine cool off. This takes time, so be patient. Use the time to go get a jug of water or antifreeze.

Check the overflow tank coolant level. If it's empty, the radiator is probably low on coolant.

Check the pressure of the system by wrapping a cloth around the upper radiator hose and squeezing it. If it's still under pressure (hot) it will not squeeze easily. Wait until it does.

Place a large cloth over the radiator cap, and carefully release the pressure. Serious burns can result from the hot coolant. If in doubt, wait until the engine cools completely.

If the coolant is low, start the engine, and slowly add the water or coolant necessary to fill it up. The engine must be running. Adding coolant to a warm engine can crack the block. By running the engine, the coolant keeps moving and reduces the chances of this type of damage occurring.

Radiators are indispensable parts of any cooling system. They are designed to dissipate the heat, which the coolant has absorbed from the engine. However, like all auto parts, radiators are prone to damage and corrosion. As it is mostly made of metal and is in constant contact with liquids, radiators can break down over time due to corrosive forces. Defective radiators can spell doom for any engine. Irreparable damage can result if a malfunctioning radiator is not repaired or replaced immediately.

[Plex]

Engine Fault Finding Tips

As with any fault finding procedure, knowing where to start is half the battle - Please don�t overlook the obvious. Major sudden failures are rare and are often the result of an underlying problem that has been left unchecked. Components that do fail suddenly are often easily rectified.

Engine will not turn when attempting to start
Battery terminals corroded, and or poor connections, faulty battery or discharged - Faulty connection/s in starter circuit - Faulty starter solenoid - Faulty starter motor - Earth strap to engine loose or corroded.

Engine turns, but will not start
Fuel tank empty - Battery condition (see above) - Air filter clogged - Poor cylinder compression - Timing belt broken - Ignition system damp or wiring fault - Faulty spark plugs - Choke incorrectly adjusted or worn - Fuel line fault, or fuel pump

Noisy starter motor
Starter motor mounting bolts loose - Internal damage to starter motor - Flywheel teeth damaged

Engine starts, but then cuts out
Ignition system wiring fault - Faulty fuel injectors - Tappet settings incorrect - Uneven cylinder compression - Fuel line or fuel pump faulty - Idle speed incorrect adjustment - Choke mechanism faulty or incorrectly adjusted - Blocked carburetor jets - Vacuum leak inlet manifold or carburetor hoses

Uneven engine idle speed
Incorrect setting for idle speed - Air filter blocked - Fuel system air-locked - Incorrect tappet adjustment - Faulty spark plugs - Vacuum leaks, as above - Carburetor jets blocked - Low or uneven cylinder compression - Timing belt incorrectly adjusted - Camshaft lobes worn - Faulty fuel injectors

Engine misfires
Distributor cap faulty - Faulty fuel lines, pump, injectors - Incorrect tappet adjustment - Cylinder compression low or uneven - Vacuum leaks as above - Fuel filter clogged - Fuel tank vent blocked - Faulty HT lead

Engine stalls
As above

Engine lacks power
As above and - Brakes binding - clutch slipping

Engine backfires
Timing belt incorrectly fitted - Faulty fuel injector

Engine runs on after switching off
High carbon build up in engine - High engine operating temperature

Oil pressure warnings
Low oil level - Incorrect oil grade - Oil pressure sender unit faulty - Worn engine bearings - Faulty oil pump - Excessively high engine temperature - Oil relief valve defective - Oil filter clogged. Low oil pressure in high-milers at tick-over is not normally a cause for worry. It is far more significant if low oil pressure is shown at high speeds, or if a sudden drop in pressure occurs.

[Plex]

Chip tuning

This simple, yet effective unit will allow you to boost the power output of your Peugeot engine, without sacrificing reliability or comfort. It consists of a small electronic device that is inserted between your Peugeots air sensor and the ECU. This is also know as a 'piggy back' device as it is external to the main processing unit (the ECU). You will feel the gain instantly, no fooling around or expensive tuning necessary. This unit will work with all Peugeot vehicles equipped with electronic fuel injection. 99% of Peugeot cars manufactured after 1988 are equipped with electronic fuel injection.

Here is how it works : You have probably heard of performance eprom chips (Superchips, BBR Starchip etc). These chips consist of a stock computer program that has been altered to inject more fuel into the engine under acceleration. Timing curves are commonly also adjusted consequently. These chips can be found to be quite effective, but are also very expensive - costing normally from � 200 up to � 1500 ! they also require plenty of time, specialist tools and occassionally soldering to fit. Our 'piggy back' Mod Chip on the other hand will alter the fuel and timing curves in a very similar way to the eprom chip, but without even having to open the ECU. How does it do that ? By fooling your cars computer and letting it think that your Peugeots engine is sucking in air at a different temperature. Your computer will respond and increase power !

Frequently Asked Questions :
Q. What is an ECU ?

A. An ECU is a computer that manages your engine and keeps it running. It received data from the different sensors on the engine and reacts consequently, adjusting the level of fuel injected in the engine as well as the timing advance.

Q. What is a 'piggy back' device ?

A. A piggy back device is a device meant to externally alter one or more signals sent to the ECU. This is a very commong thing to do but also very expensive. Most piggy back devices cost a few hundred pounds.

Q. Will this fit on my particular Peugeot model ?

A. If your Peugeot is equipped with electronic fuel injection, it will. 99% of cars manufactured after in or after 1988 are equipped with a fuel injection. It will however not work on turbocharged vehicles.

Q. Will my car accelerate faster with this electronic device?

A. Yes ! This is the whole point ! It has been dyno proven on various Rolling Roads accross the country that this device will add up to 20 HP to your car !. See the figures below, obtained from the �Peugeot Sports Club� and also from the �Fiat Sports Club�. All vehicles noted below were tested on a rolling road, first in standard form, and then with the Mod Chip fitted.

Proven Power Increases Using The Mod Chip:
Peugeot 205 GTI 1.6 +6 BHP
Peugeot 205 GTI 1.9 +7 BHP
Peugeot 306 XSI +8 BHP
Peugeot 306 GTI +13 BHP
Peugeot 405 MI16 +15 BHP
Fiat Uno +7 BHP
Fiat Punto +8 BHP
Fiat Cinquencento +7 BHP
Fiat Coupe +11 BHP
Fiat Bravo +9 BHP
Fiat Brava +8 BHP
Fiat Barchetta +7 BHP

Q. Will this device damage my car ?

A. Absolutely not. Since the altered signal will always stay within Peugeot's specifications, there is no way for your engine to get damaged in any way.

Q. How hard is it to install this device to my Peugeot ?

A. Installation on all Peugeot models is a very easy DIY task that can be completed within 5 minutes. Full instructions are included.

Q. Do I need any special skills or tools ?

A. No special skills or tools are required.

Q. Will my fuel consumption be affected ?

A. Tests have proven that fuel consumption has actually been reduced in most cases - More power & more MPG !

Q. My Peugeot model is turbocharged, will it work ?

A. Sorry this will not work with turbocharged Peugeot cars.

http://www.gidig.com/mod-chip/peugeot-car-mod-chip.html

[Plex]

DRIVESHAFT FAULT FINDING

Clicking or knocking noise on turns
(at slow speed on full-lock)
Lack of constant velocity joint lubricant,
possibly due to damaged gaiter.
Worn outer constant velocity joint.

Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
Worn inner constant velocity joint.
Bent or distorted driveshaft.

[Plex]

307 Power windows

Problem: One touch power window does not work all the time and sometimes u need to hold on to the switch to send down or up the window.

Solution: activate the windows everytime u use the car constant send it down and up a few times like 3 times and it will work...

I am wondering if it is a contact problem..but the motor works fine..

[Plex]

Question:

[Plex]

Aftermarket wheels for Peugeot :Offset & PCD & Tyres

http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?t=1030

Peugeot Engine Codes

http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?t=1683

Schematic Diagrams for 306,307,405,406 & 605

http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?t=1765

306�C coolant temp

http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?t=2079

Peugeot lowering guidelines

http://www.zorce.com/zforums/viewtopic.php?t=1027

[Plex]

Paint codes

Black

• Black 106, 206, 306, 406 Solid XYP0

Blue

• Ariane Blue 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Metallic GSM0
  
  
• China Blue 206, 306, 406, 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Pearlescent KQM0
  
  
• Dragoon Blue 306, 806 Solid 4PP0
  
  
• Moonstone 206, 306 Metallic YLM0
  
  
• Nile Blue 306 Metallic GQM0
  
  
• Polaris Blue 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Metallic GTM0
  
  
• Provence Blue 306 Metallic GRM0
  
  
• Sigma Blue 306 Metallic MONQ

Green

• Evergreen 206, 306, 406 Solid 7GP0
  
  
• Galileo Green 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Metallic 6FM0
  
  
• Sherwood Green 306, 406 Metallic 7FM0
  
  
• Tie-Break Green (Roland Garros) 106, 206, 306, 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Metallic 8JM0
  
  
• Tropical Green 306 Estate, 806 Metallic 6SM0
  
  
• Tucanae Green 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Metallic 6KM0
  
  
• Venetian Green paint code MOQU

Grey

• Astor Grey 306 Metallic YJM0
  
  
• Cosmos Grey 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Metallic YFM0
  
  
• Satellite Grey 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Metallic VWM0

Red

• Cherry Red 106, 205, 206, 306, 309, 406 Solid KBP0
  
  
• Diablo Red 106, 206, 306, 406, 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Pearlescent KQM0
  
  
• Egyptian Red 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Metallic U7M0
  
  
• Scarlet Red 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Solid KGP0

Silver

• Platinum Silver 106, 205, 206, 306, 309, 406, 806 Metallic YCM0

White

• Bianca White 106, 206, 306, 406, 806 Solid P0WP

Yellow

• Blaze Yellow 106, 306 Metallic MODX
  
  
• Pulsar Yellow 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Solid D9P0
  
  
• Sundance Yellow 306 Cabriolet, Coupe Solid AUP0

[306mom]

[Plex]

I do not think there is any other way other than re-adjusting the torsion bar.

[chinee]

I believe the rear torsion bar on the 306 sedan and hatch can adjust the height of the rear, should be the same with the wagon.