You Can Fly an R/C Airplane

[Plex]

For most people, the beauty of an airplane's design lies in its lines and curves. For the flier, however, the beauty of a design includes what that design can do. That feeling is as true for R/C (radio control) pilots as it is for pilots of full-size aircraft. Their differences�aircraft size, and the fact that R/C pilots remain on the ground�have very little impact on the way given designs perform. As a result, R/C hobbyists have been able to model and fly aircraft that range from the Wright Brothers' first plane to the magnificent Space Shuttle.


A few things to think about.
How much does it cost?
A lot depends on your budget. You can spend as little as $100 or as much as $1,000 on the basic equipment. Average cost for a complete (but no frills) beginner package runs around $200-$350.(costs is in US$)

How fast does a model go?
Trainers usually cruise at 25-30 mph and can land at speeds as slow as 12-15 mph. However, there are also unmodified, off-the-shelf airplanes that can deliver speeds of up to 200 mph!

How far can a model fly?
The range for a modern R/C system is about a mile. But to maintain control, you need to have your model close enough to tell what it is doing. Even a plane with a 5-6 foot wingspan looks tiny at half a mile.

What happens if I run out of fuel in flight?
Contrary to popular belief, you have control even if your engine stops running. You just glide your plane in for a "dead stick" landing. The radio system has its own batteries for power.

Flying Basics
Aerodynamics: To fly, an airplane's wing has to overcome gravity by developing lift greater than the weight of the plane. Since it can't do that standing still, airplanes use thrust...force directed backwards...to drive the wing forward through the air and generate lift. However, thrust has its own opposition to overcome in the form of drag�the resistance of the air to a body moving through it. If lift and thrust are greater than gravity and drag, you have the potential for flight...and fun.

Wing Location: Wing placement, for the most part, falls into two major categories�high wing design and low wing design. In a high wing design, the weight of the model is suspended below the wing. When the model tilts, the model's weight tries to return it to a level position. As a result, high-wing models tend to be more stable, easier to fly�and natural choices for trainers. A low-wing model is just the opposite. With its weight above the wing, it tends to be less stable�excellent for advanced fliers who want to perform rolls, loops and other aerobatic maneuvers.

Airfoil: If you face the wing tip of the plane and cut it from front to back, the cross section exposed would be the wing's airfoil. The Flat-Bottom Airfoil will develop the most lift at low speeds and helps return the model to upright when tilted. This is ideal for trainers and first-time pilots. A Symmetrical Airfoil's top and bottom have the same shape, allowing it to produce lift equally whether right side up or upside down and to transition between the two smoothly. This is recommended for advanced pilots. Lastly, a Semi-Symmetrical Airfoil is a combination of the other two and favored by intermediate and sport pilots.

Wing Area/Wing Loading: Wing area is the amount of wing surface available to create lift. Wing loading is the weight that a given area of the wing has to lift and is usually measured in ounces per square foot. Generally, a light wing loading is best for beginners. The plane will perform better and be easier to control.

Dihedral: Dihedral is the upward angle of the wings from the fuselage.Dihedral increases stability and decreases aerobatic ability.

Wing Thickness: Wing thickness � measured from top to bottom � determines how much drag is created. A thick wing creates more drag, causing slower speeds and gentler stalls and is ideal for beginners. A thin wing permits higher speeds and sudden stalls � desirable for racing and certain aerobatic maneuvers.

Landing Gear Location: Tricycle gear includes a nose gear and two wing (main) gears, making takeoffs and landings easier�ideal for beginners.

Kits vs. Prebuilts
Until recently, most R/C airplane models came in Kit form�consisting of a box full of parts, a set of plans, an instruction manual and some hardware. And kits remain very popular. Many modelers enjoy the challenge of putting them together as much as actually flying them. Depending on the kit, however, assembly can take weeks or even months to complete, and also requires a well-equipped hobby toolbox.

For a number of reasons�including a shortage of leisure time�hobbyists are now turning to "prebuilt" models as another way to enjoy R/C flight. Actually, prebuilt planes are great for first-time pilots. Because they come factory-assembled, you KNOW they're constructed well. Many are put together with materials as high in quality as any kit. Because you haven't put your heart and soul into building them, you're less likely to be nervous when flying them. And they let you focus on learning to fly, without also having to learn new model building skills.

You can choose from models with varying degrees of preassembly. The following acronyms are commonly used to identify types of prebuilt planes:

ARF: Stands for "Almost Ready-to-Fly." Most can be completed and flight-ready with as little as 16-20 hours of assembly. Major structures such as the wing halves, fuselage, and tail fins all come entirely built and covered. You simply assemble those sections, install your power plant and radio gear, attach the landing gear and a few other pieces of hardware...and you're done.

RTF: Stands for "Ready-to-Fly." Want a model that's ready for the air as little as 20 minutes after you open the box? Get an RTF. You'll still have to complete a few final assembly steps, but far less than even ARFs require. True RTFs, like the Hobbico Avistar 40 Select RTF, also include engine and radio gear already mounted inside the model. There's no easier way to get airborne!

Source: http://www.easyrc.com/airplanes/index.html

[Plex]

Choosing the Size of Your Plane
The "size" of a model plane generally refers to the size of engine, in cubic inch displacement, required to fly it successfully. The most popular sizes are 20 (requiring a .20-.36 engine), 40 (.40-.53 engine) and 60 (.60-.75 engine). Many other sizes are available, too, ranging from small, .049-powered craft up to massive, giant-scale models.

Most trainers fall into the 40-size category. That's because 40s are fairly stable, with enough heft to fly well in breezy conditions, but still small enough to be affordable for new hobbyists. Many 60-size trainers are also available, and offer the advantage of even greater stability�plus easier visibility once aloft�both due to their larger dimension.

Choosing your type of plane
What first attracts many would-be pilots to the idea of R/C flying is the thought of controlling a blistering-fast ducted fan jet or wicked WWII warbird. And there's no better way to put a quick END to your flying career than to start with such a model. They're simply not designed for anyone who hasn't yet developed sharp piloting skills. Model plane styles are available that duplicate virtually every kind of full-size aircraft. The best ones for the first-timers are, without question, trainers and trainer-like sailplanes. These are specifically engineered to fly slowly and smoothly. They'll keep you out of trouble�giving you time to acquire the skill and confidence You'll need for those jets and warbirds.

Engines
Model planes can use several different types of power sources. Electric models carry battery-powered motors to turn the propeller. Gliders or sailplanes ride on thermal air currents (some also have electric motors for quick launching to great heights). Most R/C models, however, are powered by glow engines.

The most economical are basic 2-stroke engines with brass bushings supporting the crankshaft. For a little more power, you might choose a 2-stroke that uses ball bearings to support the crankshaft. The ball bearings also extend the life of the engine, so you can continue using it to power future models. The cost, however, is nearly twice that of a bushing-equipped engine.

Finally, there's the 4-stroke glow engine�slightly less powerful than 2-strokes of the same size and higher priced, but offering more torque, swinging bigger props, using less fuel and sounding much more realistic.

Radios
R/C planes are controlled by a radio system that consists of a transmitter�which stays with you on the ground�plus a receiver, servos, and receiver battery (all of which are "on-board" components, mounted inside your model). Most aircraft radio systems come with everything you need, including a rechargeable battery pack.

As mentioned earlier, first-time pilots should always seek the help of an instructor. And an important part of working with an instructor is making sure that both of you use radios with "trainer system" or "buddy box" capability. The trainer system allows you to connect your radio to your instructor's, using a cable. You'll still be the one controlling your model, so long as your instructor holds down the trainer switch on his transmitter. But if you start having trouble, all the instructor has to do is release the switch to take over full control.

Most trainer planes require a radio with at least four channels of control, to operate the throttle, elevator, rudder and ailerons. But not all 4-channel radio systems come equipped with the necessary four servos. Make sure your system has as many as your plane requires.

One "ideal" first 4-channel radio is the Tower 4-TH Combo with 4 standard servos. Not only does it have trainer system capability, but it's also an FM system�which reduces the potential for radio interference compared to AM radios.

Tools & Building Equipment
Regardless of whether a model comes in kit form or prebuilt, some building tools and workshop accessories will be needed to make it flight-ready. These include such common items as a hobby knife, T-pins, screwdrivers, pliers, sandpaper, masking tape, and perhaps a drill. Building a kit also takes some specialized equipment like covering tools. Follow the Accessories Required links for the plane you choose to see a list of the tools needed.

R/C model building adhesives are also required, and differ from the white glue and model airplane cement you may have worked with in the past. Cyanoacrylates are commonly used. These are glues specially formulated for working with wood, which provide a range of curing speeds�giving you as little or as much time as each assembly step requires. "Thick" cyanoacrylates also help to fill slight gaps between parts.

Modeling Epoxies are two-part adhesives, consisting of a resin and a hardener. At steps where very strong bonds are critical, a plane's manual will often recommend epoxy. The resin and hardener must first be mixed, then applied to the surface�so mixing cups, mixing sticks and inexpensive, disposable epoxy brushes also come in handy.

Accessories
When you buy a model airplane, you'll probably also need to buy a number of additional, inexpensive accessory items to make it flight-ready (those items are listed under the Accessories Required links for the plane you choose). These parts are traditionally left out of kits because the appropriate sizes depend on your choice of engine; also, experienced hobbyists may have a brand preference or already keep those parts in their workshop. Required accessories often include the following:

Covering �The adhesive-backed, plastic or fabric "skin" that surrounds a model airplane's structure, applied by a process of heating and stretching.

Pushrods �Rods that link your radio system's servos to the parts of the model that those servos move. They're often made of wire or a firm piece of balsa, fiberglass, or plastic, with a clevis fastener at the end.

Control Horn �A bracket, mounted on a part of the model, where the pushrods are attached.

Hinges �Connect the moveable surfaces of a model to the main, static structure.

Foam Rubber �Used to cushion the on-board radio equipment to protect it from engine vibration.

Wing Seating Tape �Applied where the wing fits onto the fuselage, to cushion the wing and prevent exhaust oils from entering the fuselage.

Wheel Collars �Small metal collars which keep the plane's wheels positioned correctly on the axle.

Wheels �Available in several styles, such as treaded, non-treaded, scale, and air-filled.

Spinner �Plastic or aluminum cone mounted at the "nose" of the plane to improve looks and aerodynamics.

Engine Mount �Reinforced structure, often made of nylon or aluminum, that allows your engine to be attached securely to the plane.

Fuel Tank, Tubing & Filters �The sized used depends on the engine you select; therefore, these often are not included with the model.

Engine Accessories �Propellers are usually not included with the engine or the plane; also, your engine may or may not come with a muffler and glow plug.

Field Equipment
Once your aircraft is chosen, built and covered, there's only one thing left to do...fly it! To do that, you'll need what we refer to as "flight line equipment"�such as fuel, a fuel pump, engine starting equipment and a few other basic tools. Except for the fuel, most flight line supplies are one-time purchases. You can use them throughout your modeling career, with as many different models as you fly.

Most modelers go to the field equipped with the following, all stored in a "flight box" for easy transport:

Power Panel � the centralized power source for electrical field equipment

12V Field Battery �to supply power to the power panel

DC Charger �to recharge the 12V field battery

Glow Plug Clip �an electric device that gives your engine's glow plug the initial heat it needs to burn fuel

Fuel Pump �to move fuel from your gallon can or jug to the plane's fuel tank, available in hand-crank or electric-powered styles

Fuel Line, Filters & Cap Fittings �to connect your fuel to the pump, and the pump to the plane's fuel tank.

12V Electric Starter �a device for quick, easy engine starting, powered from the power panel (a small wooden dowel or "chicken stick" can also be used).

Miscellaneous Tools�including a 4-way glow plug/prop wrench.

Glow plugs and propellers �it's always a good idea to carry extras...without a spare, you might be forced to stop flying early.

The glow fuel used for a model engines carries a percent rating, which indicates its nitromethane content. For trainer aircraft, 10% or 15% is recommended. Use a good quality fuel with a blend of castor oil and synthetic lubricants to protect your engine. Avoid "cheap" fuels, which sometimes attract moisture and cause engine parts to rust.

Source: http://www.easyrc.com/airplanes/index.html

[Plex]

Types of Airplanes

Practically every full-size airplane that�s ever graced the skies has also been reproduced as an R/C model. That�s one of the hobby�s biggest draws. Though most of us will never actually pilot an Air Force Thunderbird or Blue Angel, we CAN fly an R/C model that looks exactly like one!
Of course, real jet pilots go through a tremendous amount of training before they�re qualified to handle such a powerful machine. Again, there�s a parallel in the R/C world. Some models are just too demanding for beginners to fly successfully.
When you browse through Tower�s airplane offerings or visit your local airfield, you�ll see R/C models that fit into all of the following groups. Stick with the hobby and eventually, you�ll be able to take your pick from them all�and it�ll be some other newcomer whose jaw drops when YOU take off!

Trainers
Hobbico� NexSTAR 46 Select RTF
R/C Trainers, with their high wing mounting and flat-bottom airfoils, are specifically designed for first-time modelers. They fly slowly, giving you extra time to think and react. If you momentarily lose control, you can simply release the transmitter sticks�your trainer will return to straight, level flight. Trainers also have a very slow stall speed, which means that their wings can generate enough lift to stay aloft even when just creeping along. Kit versions deliberately avoid complex building techniques, and many trainers are available in prebuilt form.


Bipes (Biplanes)
Great Planes� Super Stearman 1.20 Bipe ARF
A staple of aerobatic airshows, two-winged biplanes never fail to win over an audience. R/C versions deliver the same �barnstorming� performance, making them a favorite of experienced hobbyists who are in the mood for something different. The lure of the bipe is something that most sport fliers experience at least once. And building an extra wing is a small price to pay for the pleasure of flying a small piece of aviation history.

Indestructibles
DuraPlane� Trainer .40
If there�s an R/C equivalent to Superman, Man of Steel, this is it...not so much a type of plane as a type of construction. While many R/C models are built of wood or foam, �indestructibles� are made of tougher stuff. DuraPlanes, for example, have a rugged PVC and aluminum fuselage, aluminum-reinforced wing, aluminum landing gear...and can bounce right back with very minimal damage even after hard crashes. The trainer styles make excellent first models. They�re easy to build and easy to keep in top flying shape!

Scale
Great Planes Piper J-3 Cub 40 Kit
Scale models recreate full-size aircraft. Some are intended only to look reasonably close to the real thing. Deviations are made to keep assembly and performance within the abilities of a particular skill level. Then again, there are also scale kits created expressly for very serious craftsmen. The reward, after plenty of painstaking effort, is a model that�s nearly a photo-perfect reproduction of the real plane. Scale kits are not for first-timers, but the Great Planes Cub shown here can be an exciting �next step� after you�ve built and mastered a trainer.

Warbirds
Top Flite Giant P-51D Mustang ARF
A sub-category of Scale Models, R/C warbirds bring dogfight excitement directly to your local flying field! Some of aviation�s greatest advances came during war years�and some of the most colorful plane nicknames, too (such as �Whispering Death� and �Butcher Bird�). Through R/C warbirds, experienced modelers can join their love of history with their favorite hobby.

Giant Scale
Great Planes Christen Eagle II ARF MonoKote
Giant Scale models, like the name suggests, combine lifelike detail with immense size�magine controlling a model whose wing spans as much as seven feet or more! As you'd expect, such aircraft are higher priced and demand a great deal of time, patience and skill...they are not for beginners.

Sport Models
Great Planes� Easy Sport 40 Mk II ARF
Generally, Sport Models are any planes designed to perform aerobatic maneuvers. Most have wings mounted at the middle or bottom of the fuselage, and symmetrical airfoils�meaning that the top and bottom surfaces of the wing are curved to allow greater maneuverability, at the expense of the stability that first-time fliers require. �Sport Trainers� are available that combine characteristics of basic trainers (such as a wing mounted above the fuselage) with sport planes (such as a semi-symmetrical airfoil). These make a good �step up� after you�ve mastered your basic trainer.

Park Flyers
Great Planes� Yard Stik EP Park Flyer ARF
If you want to fly -- but without a lot of effort or special flying site requirements -- Park Flyers are the answer! They offer all the fun and excitement of larger R/C airplanes, but in a smaller size that has several advantages. They're very affordable. Kit assembly is quick and easy (some Park Flyers also come in ARF form and can be flight-ready in just 10-12 hours). Because of their compact size and clean, quiet electric power, you can fly them almost anywhere: at a park, in a football field, or even in your own backyard.* How well do they fly? With recent advances in electric technology -- and the use of ultralight materials for construction -- Park Flyers perform like champions!
See the complete selection of Park Flyers.
*To ensure safe operation, always fly Park Flyers at a site at least five miles away from established radio-control flying parks.

Sailplanes
Great Planes� Spectra ARF
R/C sailplanes ride on rising masses of warm air, called �thermals.� Their slow flying speed and stability makes them a good choice for first-time hobbyists. The challenge is learning to locate those invisible thermals and use them to your advantage. Some sailplanes are equipped with �power pods� (electric motors) for easy, powered launches. Others are launched by tossing them from a hill or slope...by using a slingshot-like device called a hi-start...or by towing them in a fashion similar to launching a kite. See the sailplane section for more information on this type of plane.

Source: http://www.easyrc.com/airplanes/airplanes4.html